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Yeah, we use gal here. Water is great quality and we don’t have many issues.

That’s the way we like to install tanks.vertical, up or down. Never horizontal.

American standard Cadet Pro comfort height, elongated bowl with a slow close seat. 569.00 complete with removal of the old unit. We do about 50 a year.

Both trucks have the General JM-1100 mini jetter and I keep the KJ-2200 on my truck. We also have the KJ-3100 that stays in the shop for main lines and root cutting. We use the root ranger and the reaper heads for root cutting. Like my apprentice says, “with jetting, you’re just selling the...

See snake mini (200 foot) with the cs65x monitor and a micro reel for going through toilets instead of pulling them to check main lines. Expensive but way worth it. Both trucks have that set up. We charge 485.oo to jet a main line and camera it. We will warranty our work because we know the line...

I’ve put neorests in. Cool if you’re into that kind of stuff. Have a guy with three, more money than god and his wife thinks he’s crazy. Just a expensive, fancy toilet. And way more money to install too.

Be nice if those 90’s had the right sweeps.

You will probably never have an issue with that joint. Pro-pex (wirsbo) Fittings slide into the pipe after expanding the pipe and ring. The pipe has what is called a memory effect and always want to shrink back to its original size. It’s really how far in the pipe the fitting is not that little...

Not a lot more I can add to this conversation, sorry.

I zoomed in on that. It’s like a cotter pin. You need to squeeze the end of the bolt together as you unscrew it. Actually a pretty clever set up.

Can you manually lift the flap? If you can, prop it open and inspect it. And you could take the screw and nut apart and it should just come off. DONT LOOSE THE SCREW AND NUT!

Tough picture but it looks like an old backwater valve. You should be able to lift and clean the seal but the waste material has to work it’s way through. Hence the term “self-scouring” in the code book.

Here’s a trick that I have used for a long time. Over tighten the trim escutcheon for the valve. Then push the tub spout on and tighten it. When you’ve done that back the escutcheon screws off and that help “pull” the spout back a little bit and tighten it up. If you seal the hole in the...

Rick, I have to take issue with that whole statement. Moen warranties their products for life and if you call all they ask is that you be the original owner. Not one of my clients has had ANY pushback from Moen and has never been asked for a receipt first. On the delta, sure, seats and springs...

Turn out the lights, the parties over. You get an A for effort. That valve has to go. Open the wall behind and rip the valve out and put a new one in. Use the moentrol, it’s a way better valve. And the cartridge replacement is easier too. So, that’s a bonus.

Plumb, square and flush are just a few words we like to use. Have him fix that **** right. No rocket science.

Only use them when forced to. Transitioning out of cpvc mostly. Would never use them where a traditional fitting should be used.

Could have something stuck in the pump or could just be a bad pump.

Right Frodo. We roughed our drop ears at 80” off the floor, standard. Higher if the owner asked. Rarely did I ever get, “hey, can you lower that for me?” The strength issue is a non starter. Two screws to a block or two nuts on fiberglass. Duh.

Downside, if that tank goes out you’ll wait forever for hot water. Pump it! Cheaper better.