Search results

Thanks for the help Valveman. The check valve at the top of the well had gone bad and was replaced. The one at the bottom was still good. It was drawing 10.4 amps. I had not checked the amp draw from the motor. Yes, that is the new pump on the truck.

Home warranty company said the well coverage was not on my policy. Called a local well company and they sent a truck out. At first he thought the well was drying up. Then his boss said to pull the motor and maybe the impeller shaft was wearing out. Pulled the pump motor out and right away...

L1/L2 is 240v blk/red is 340v

It pumps water when the control box clicks on and stops pumping when I flip the switch on the pressure switch. To me, it's almost like the 240v motor is running on 120v.

The control box clicks when I open and close the contacts on the pressure switch. I have not opened the control box to test the wires inside. I looked in my home appliance warranty agreement and they do cover "all components of the well pump". There is a plumber coming to look at it tomorrow...

It could be a 40/60 switch. I am not sure. During the home inspection, I thought he mentioned that the well kicked on at 30 and off at 60. When I tried looking up a 30/60 switch, there weren't any so I assumed it was a 30/50 switch. Between 1 and 4 is 240v so I would assume that it is getting 240v.

I tried pushing the red button. It does move but it does not seem to be tripped. I closed off the water valve after the pressure switch and turned off the breaker to the well pump. I connected a hose and tried to drain off any water in the tank. I can rock the pressure tank and it feels empty...

Disclaimer: The house and well are less than 5 years old. There was a hard freeze in February, some frozen pipes in the house but no burst pipes. I am not a plumber. Sorry for the large pictures. We have had a lot of rain lately so I turned off the sprinklers. I run the sprinklers late at night...

When removed, it was a super thin wall copper pipe. Luckily that short segment was the only part with that thin copper. Couldn't save the recirc motor and had to put in a new one.

My house was built in 2016. Most of the plumbing is pex (or whatever the other similar stuff is). Above the water heater is a hot water recirculator that has copper on both sides including coming out of the wall. There is also a check valve on the water heater side that leads to the cold return...

This only happens when there is a lot of rain. The rest of the time it works as it should. There are 4 risers and all are 2-3" above the ground. Most of the rain drainage does go over the tanks, but it would be impossible for the water to go above the riser covers. The previous owner had a...

I have a new to me house that is 4 years old this year. This is my first experience with an aerobic system. We have had some heavy rains recently. After the rain, my sprayers run a lot and often. I have checked the house for any leaking toilets and have not found any. The water softener has a...

Thanks for everyone's input. I finally got around to replacing the wax ring. I ended up using one of the silicone covered wax rings (Perfect Seal Wax Ring from Danco) since the flange was at a slight angle. Part was at tile level and part was below tile level. This wax ring ensured a good seal...

It just started happening. And by heavy use I mean there's 15-20 guests visiting one day and all are using that restroom. First time it happened, I thought maybe the shutoff valve was leaking or someone spilled something on the floor. I put something under the back of the toilet to catch any...

I have a guy coming out to pump the tank. The house was built in 1987 and they didn't have a code and permits for septic until 1988 here so it's a weird setup. I only know of one tank about 50 feet from the house and there is a drain field between the house and the tank. Maybe there's a tank by...

The house is on a septic tank with a drain field. I have a 1st floor half bath where the toilet works fine most of the time with occasional use. When there are a bunch of guests and the toilet gets heavy use, there is water on the floor in front of the toilet. It is not leaking at the back by...

And today I found a leak in the threads of the valve. Guess I should have used more teflon tape. What's the best fix other than redoing the whole thing? It's a slow drip. Think some plumber's putty at the threads would stop it?

Couple of pics for those who like pictures. You can see the couplers from the previous repair by someone else. First couple are the before pics. The bypass is the horizontal pipe.

Sorry, I got them confused. I am using white SCH 40 PVC, not CPVC. I let it sit for 5 hours. Slowly opened the main valve and then slowly opened the other valves since there's now air in the system. Pressure equalized and no leaks. Now I'll open up some faucets in the house and see if I can...

Edit: Sorry, I mean PVC, not CPVC. Is there no search function on the forum or did I miss it? I know I am SUPPOSED to wait 24 hours. But I'm going to need a shower before then. I just replaced a gate valve with a brass ball valve. City water from the road and 3/4" valve in the box. Switches to...