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Hi, this is Terry's wife Andi. Terry lost his battle with lung cancer this evening at 7:13. I know he counted a lot of the members of this forum as his friends and I felt you should be notified of his passing. Thanks for being a good friend to him. Andi

The older trap clean-outs had a rubber "O" ring. This may have dropped off, or disintegrated when you removed the plug. Try teflon tape or joint compound (pipe dope) on the threads. As a last resort, draw a piece of heavy string through a candle to coat with wax. Wrap the threads of the plug...

Check your local code. In Florida, we had to drop from the house main drain by means of a 45 degree fitting, then approximatly 2' of pipe and then another 45 fitting before entering the tank.

Make sure Sharkbite fittings are legal in your State. This is especially true if the valve will not be continually accessable. No matter what they state in the advertisments, they are still a "compression type" connection.

I would not think that seeing a 2" gap between the toilet bowl top and the bottom of the seat would look "normal.

Since you have ruled out the common problems, try checking the tank. Water in the bowl only comes from the tank. Hard to say what you may find. As far as the vent, if it is blocked or non-existant, the waste water could get air-locked and then return through the piping and into the bowl. Not...

The "adapter" is probably an anti-siphon device. Many States require this type hose bibb to pass inspection. I would just change the whole bibb.

Are these joints soldered? Could be excess flux.

It should drain, but I would not want to need to snake this piping out if a clog forms. Main cause of clogs are hair and the residue left from soap and shampoo. A wire screen (the temporary removable type) over the tub drain would help prevent lots of problems in the future.

Let the water run in any room you can, for now, for about 15 minutes. this will clear out the majority of the taste. After the work is finished, reflush all the house lines.

I attended a class on PVC pipe installation back in the early 70's. The instructor stated that the "perfect" installation would include beveling the outside of the pipe, to match the bevel inside the fittings where the pipe stops when properly fitted. He also said that if he were a business...

It is called an "EZ out". Be very careful since the threads of the aerator are fine threads.

Since most home hot water is via the water heater, I don't see how this can be. The cold water feeds the tank and the pressures are normally the same, or the hot water a bit less than the cold. Do you have a pump of some sort on the hot water line(s)?

Most likely the soap has hardened in the trap. If you have not done so yet, remove the trap and clean out what you can of the soap. Be very careful now that you have added Drano. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection before removing the trap. This stuff can eat your skin.

Originally, I thought you meant the Plumber tightened to floor bolts (the ones that hold the toilet to the floor). If the tank bolts or gasket are what is leaking, you should easily be able to see water either hanging from or dripping from the bolts. I would not let him get away with this. Not...

The Plumber that did the repacement must have either not tightened something, or could possibly have broke something (pipe) in the wall. Do not count on the water meter leak detector. I have seen non-detected leaks that allow for a lot of water and no movement of the meter detection device. If...

Just guessing since I can't see it, but I'll bet the pipe was galvanized steel and the threads of the pipe are still in the tee. This would maske what yuou see appear smooth or threadless. You need a tool to remove the threads from the tee. Doing this without enough room will be difficult. You...

Product is called a coupling. Cut the pipe at the pinhole and install the coupling. You are asking for a future leak if you use the "wonder" products.

If you mean a clothes washing machine, no. Many codes are raising the size to 2" from the old 1-1/2" since newer washing machines have more powerful pumps than the older models. As mentioned, you need to have the drain trapped, and according to your drawing you by-passed the trap.

I agree. Most people don't know where their main electrical box is either. This is all part of the learning curve home owners go through. Sooner or later.