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Thanks for the reply. Before I read your post I went ahead and cut the magnesium anode rod I had on hand to about 35 inches and was able to install it just fine. I'll check it in a year when it's time for normal maintenance (drain & flush). In all of the years I have had hot water heaters, I...

The original anode is 44 inches long. To fit the new rod, I would have to cut off about 10 inches making the new rod 34 inches. I am just wondering if the anode protection (electrolysis) radiates out perpendicular to the rod to the tank leaving the bottom part of the tank unprotected. The...

The original rod is 44 inches long and sits about an inch or so above the bottom of the tank. In order to fit the new rod, I would have to cut about a foot off to 34 inches total length. As long as it is protecting the tank all around, it's not a big deal to have to replace this rod a bit sooner...

It's time for me to check/replace my Rheem 55 gallon water heater's anode rod. The old rod came out pretty easily but on an angle before it hit the roof above the heater - but I was able to get it out. It was pretty 'chewed' up and needed to be replaced, but still doing its job so I felt very...

How can you tell the difference between an aluminium anode rod vs a magnesium anode rod? I have an old "new" anode rod that I no longer recall if it is aluminium or magnesium. Is there an easy way to tell? I prefer magnesium as it should give better protection and also is better for your...

As it turns out, the bottom drain was clogged up. There was nothing wrong with the pump, no airlock - no other problem. Once I was able to drain the tank and remove the drain valve, I was able to scrape out the blockage. The tank itself was remarkably clean - not sure how this happened since...

I found the problem .... ()(#(*)$_@)(#@_$% Taking a look at the picture: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v5f0m68gobvnr5t/20161130_132403.jpg?dl=0 The bottom drain pipe inside the water heater is clogged. I found out by shutting down the gate valve below the circulating pump and opening up the hose...

It's an iron body. When I took it apart the pump body where the impeller sits was loaded with rust - not completely, but enough. I thought I had found my problem. I cleaned it out and re-assembled. But no change in operation. Today, I will dismantled the pipe below leading into the water...

Question about the B&G series 100 pump: Is it possible for the pump to lose its ability to pump even though the motor is running fine? I am asking because my hot water circulation is no longer working and I have ruled out air lock and other obstructions. The pump just seems to no longer pump...

The cold water / hot water system are completely isolated from each other. The hot water system has a copper pipe loop which takes water from one end of the hot water system and pumps it back to the hot water tank. The aquastat is not the issue. The pump runs. I am beginning to think that...

The arrow on the body is pointing towards the water heater. There is no check valve. The pump used to work just fine - only in the last few weeks did I notice that the water took forever to get hot whereas before it was near instant (purpose of the pump in the first place). Touching the pipe...

Well - no luck so far. I took out the pump and there was quite a bit of rust in the pump body (where the pump impeller sits and turns) at the inlet. It looked like it could be causing a restriction. I cleaned it out creating a good passage again. I flushed the return line (pipe going into the...

Regarding the gaskets - the part numbers refer to the two that go on the pump housing and also the bearing. They are not the same. One is thicker than the other and I am not sure which one goes where. The part numbers do not refer to the flange gaskets.

I suspect the plumber who both designed and installed the system for the house just used what he had on hand ... The pump was clearly not new, but it does work great (when it was pulling the water through). Our house is large (14,000 sq. ft.). We have two water heater circulating system one for...

I received two gaskets part numbers: P04080 and P80815 for the front bearing side and body. Can anyone tell me which part number goes with the thicker gasket? I received both of these today with no part number marked on the bag. I have no idea which one is which. All I can tell is one...

Use two ball valves for above the pump as well as below - correct? (as well as swap the hose bib in front of the lower valve. I'm waiting to receive flange gaskets before I dismantle the setup. (just irks me that the original plumber didn't "know" or wasn't thinking when he first...

I have two gate valves which isolate my hot water circulation pump (B&G series 100). They are starting to leak (very slow drip - drip) and I am thinking I should replace them. Would I be better off to use brass ball valves or just replace the existing gate valves (not sure of the metal)...

Mr. David - see link for picture of my hot water recirculating pump installation: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v5f0m68gobvnr5t/20161130_132403.jpg?dl=0# Note the hose bib drain valve is installed closest to the water heater outside the circulating pump isolation valves. To force water to flow...

I use a bell & Gossett series 100 hot water circulating pump to maintain hot water at the tap. The pump is set to come on in the morning and run until the thermocouple shuts it off after the pipe gets hot. The pump is attached and mounted by the hot water tank drain valve. Hot water is...