Is this tub installed properly?

The plumber said it will be fine but I disagree. The tub instructions say to put felt pad or mortar under the tub. They just busted the concrete from the existing drain to the other side of the tub. Then they filled it back with concrete pieces and installed tub on the top of that. The tub has ribs underneath, it seems to be very sturdy but still there are many ribs floating in the air. It is installed in basement, new construction.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZYmUqnZprbvY4yhlbi-7jr8rNAdHK-Mu/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VcAGC0YD8uoiV-JbObwOMlUBvRmz8I6M/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14YT25D-S_pEl9e4Wpcr4U94H23egOgpx

maybe I'm missing something but were is the p trap?????
the ptrap shoud be at the bottom of the waste and overflow....they installed a 90 was there a (rough)inspection...if your tub gets clogged it will be very difficult or impossible to snake

if the trap is under the tub somewhere that's call a running trap illegal in my state don't worry about the tub install the piping is wrong...never heard of 2 1/2 " drain pipe CALL THE INSPECTOR
ask to see their lic .........CALL THE INSPECTOR before they run off with your money

has the inspector signed off on the current work????????

No p-trap and no proper vent and right-No support. Get your money back, call a real plumber and get a permit

They said builder usually installs P trap under concrete. I contacted the builder and they said that they do install P traps under concrete so I have to take their word since it can't be seen. Vent is on the right connected to 2.5" drain pipe - not shown on the picture. I have permit for this, they are licensed plumbers. How is this tub supposed to be installed? Should the holes be filled with concrete or something else? What should I tell them?

What type of tube is it?in general you need a layer of cement and a 2x4 as a backer board on fiberglass and steel tubs, cast iron we just use backer board

indifferent, you need to make sure they do not proceed until they fix this issue to your satisfaction. Do not let them BS you. I'm not a plumber (although I have studied the plumbing code) and even I can see that this is a hack job. From those photos, not only is there no room for a P-trap, but they used a short 90 elbow underneath that sanitary tee. Only a long run bend is allowed for drainage. The others are right that there is no vent. The P-trap *should* be visible but it is not.

So the problems:
1. Improper support for the underside of the tub in the middle (there should be *something* so it doesn't just float over a hole-- that is just asking for a weak spot/movement).
2. No visible P-trap
3. No visible vent
4. Use of 90 elbow instead of long sweep directly under the sanitary tee
5. Insufficient support under center of tub

Ask them why there is a short 90, ask them where the vent is, and ask them to show you the P-trap. If there is no P-trap (which I can't see how there can be one the way those pipes are fit together) that means sewer gases will be coming up through the tub drain. That is very bad for your health.

The way they should have done it:
*Put support backboard rated for flooring underneath the tub over the hole so it sufficiently supports the weight and all parts of the tub
*Used a proper overflow kit from the overflow and meeting with the drain with a sanitary tee (it looks like they got that part right)
*Installed 1-1/2" to 2" trap under the sanitary tee and run the trap arm a minimum of 4" and max of 60" to a vent that either goes out through the roof itself (or that meets up with the main vent stack or auxiliary vent pipe) either behind the tub or off to the side so that it will be inside of a wall or out-of-view-- trap arm should slope downward at 1/4" per ft prior to venting.
*The drain can not go down/vertical until it reaches a vent (it can be after the vent, but not before it). Once it reaches a vent, it needs to slope downward at a minimum of 1/2" per ft.

Now, in some cases the P-trap is placed directly under the drain, but in that configuration, the overflow would go down to a long sweep bend and then merge with the drain underneath the tub with a sanitary tee and the trap would be directly under that and would still need to have the trap arm and vent.

I concur with Geof: Call the inspector asap!

Editing to add a question: You said the vent is on the right-- is it after that bend near the opposite end of the tub? If so, that is greater than the maximum distance allowed. It needs to be within 60" (and tubs are usually about 60" long). Under UPC it would have to be within 42" (unless that has changed).

so I don't have to click to view.

Looks like they put the trap at the back end of the tub.

Seems like it was roughed in for a left and someone got a right hand or vice versa.

ExtraMilePlumbing said:

What type of tube is it?in general you need a layer of cement and a 2x4 as a backer board on fiberglass and steel tubs, cast iron we just use backer board

Click to expand...

It is Sterling vicryl tub. It has many support ribs on the bottom, seems to be solid. Check the attached picture, after they installed pipe they just filled the hole with leftover concrete pieces.

indifferent, I still think it would be better if they put some sort of solid support all the way across that trench in the middle. It's one thing if there is an opening underneath just the one spot for the drain, but it looks like they may have left a trench all the way under it. Even with filled-in bits, the concrete bits can shift.

And even though they filled in the concrete, you can clearly see that they have an elbow underneath the sanitary tee where the tub drain and overflow merge. The setup that they have looks like it's for a drum trap rather than a P-trap.


Here are two types of overflows.

Another sketch that shows the P-trap and vent.


On a side note, I like the tub you chose. I plan to get a Sterling Vikrell one as well.

You could ask every licensed plumber on this site and they all would tell you it isn't piped correctly. The trap has to be under the waste & over and not on the other side of the tub. I just put a 5 foot sterling shower in my new basement bathroom and I cemented the ditch all the way up to the square hole for the shower drain and then put it filled the hole with P- gravel in case I ever have to make a repair.

I forgot to mention that most jurisdictions no longer allow drum traps because they are not "self scouring". They can become clogged. What I can see of the plumbing from the picture looks like they set it up to have a drum trap or they did the plumbing as if they were going to do a drum trap and have a hidden P-trap-- but, as everyone else is saying-- it is *still* not plumbed correctly. It's entirely possible they didn't even bother with a trap and are just claiming they put one.

Do not let them leave it like that because it will mean having to tear stuff up later on when there is a problem. I honestly don't think this could pass inspection.

This is how the entire installation looks like. The vent is near lavatory drain on the right. I can't see how tub and toilet would be vented with this but the plumber said that "Both toilet and tub should be vented off of the lavatory under the ground" - whatever that means. It does not look right to me.

indifferent said:

The plumber said it will be fine but I disagree. The tub instructions say to put felt pad or mortar under the tub. They just busted the concrete from the existing drain to the other side of the tub. Then they filled it back with concrete pieces and installed tub on the top of that. The tub has ribs underneath, it seems to be very sturdy but still there are many ribs floating in the air. It is installed in basement, new construction.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZYmUqnZprbvY4yhlbi-7jr8rNAdHK-Mu/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VcAGC0YD8uoiV-JbObwOMlUBvRmz8I6M/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14YT25D-S_pEl9e4Wpcr4U94H23egOgpx

Click to expand...

bring all of these pictures down to inspectioal services and see what the inspector has to say

It depends on what code your area follows and how they ran the piping underground. I dont think you can look at the above ground and know if it is correct

Where does that 2" line that is below the lav go too.

Hmm.. You might need to check your local codes on wet-venting. IF (and it's a big IF) the toilet & tub actually do tie in to the lavatory, they are both being wet-vented.
I'm assuming toilet line is the one sticking out of the floor and capped (to allow for flange to be at right height on finished floor) and that to the right of it is the lavatory.

but I really don't see how they can merge together. Any idea what direction the sewer line goes? Does it route around or under the tub?

I did a sketch of what I think they should have done (not knowing what it looks like under the floor). Ignore that the red lines go behind the wall-- should be inside/under the wall but it's a rough sketch.

If that large horizontal pipe is carrying sewage, I believe it is a code violation to have the water supply line underneath it and so close. I could be wrong on that-- but if it were my home, I'd have them gut it and have an inspector approve of plans before letting them proceed.

Do you have a photo from the other side so we can see how much of the studs are cut from the other side?

Does this look about right?


Also, I'd be concerned about the stability of the wall that has that large pipe running horizontally through the studs. It looks like the holes are rather large and would compromise the integrity of the studs. Too much pressure of someone leaning against them might cause what little is left of the wood to break. It looks like they were trying to avoid running whatever that pipe is underground. I just don't like it.

P-trap doesn’t have to be directly under the waste and overflow as long as the developed length of the fixture outlet does not exceed 1.3m. (In Canada)

The tub is definitely wet vented through the 2” wc/lav, but that 2” horizontal that ties in most likely from a laundry machine overloads the wet vent

spidermanplumbing said:

P-trap doesn’t have to be directly under the waste and overflow as long as the developed length of the fixture outlet does not exceed 1.3m. (In Canada)

Click to expand...

that's not gonna be an easy drain to snake.....hopefully they used trap without a cleanout if its under the tub......to many red flags for me