Preferred outlet connection on stop valves?

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K

KirthGersen

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Couple of the stop/shutoff valves in my house have started leaking thru the stem. Some valves (not all) have an integral metal flex-bellows to the fixture, and inside the flex metal it's green & corroded looking. House is 30 yr old & I am original owner.

I'm going to replace all the stop valves to avoid risk of a flood disaster.

Planning to use Brasscraft "KT" series angle stops & new Brasscraft flex lines, to all faucets & 3 toilets.

Finally, my question -- the commonly available KT stop valve outlets can be either:

A) 3/8" compression, used with flex line having 3/8 comp to faucets (1/2 FIP) or toilets (7/8 ballcock).

OR

B) 1/2" slip-joint, which appears to mate with flex line having 1/2 FIP to faucets or toilets.

Parts for both #A or #B are readily available in my region (Calif).

Any reason to favor one over the other, eg for long-term reliability?
Is one more popular for new construction or remodels?

Personally, I'm leaning slightly toward #2 because I need only fumble with 1 wrench size underneath sinks, and FIP has a larger & more substantial seal/gasket. But I'd like to hear opinions.

edit: appears I incorrectly put this post into "shower & tub" sub forum. Will ask moderator to move it to "general" .
 
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Always: "A) 3/8" compression, used with flex line having 3/8 comp to faucets (1/2 FIP) or toilets (7/8 ballcock)". Never, ever slip-joint on supply lines.
 
SHR said:
Always: "A) 3/8" compression, used with flex line having 3/8 comp to faucets (1/2 FIP) or toilets (7/8 ballcock)". Never, ever slip-joint on supply lines.
Click to expand...
Mmm, but it's not actually a slip joint being fabricated, even though the outlet of the valve is "slip-joint". Valve outlet would mate to a flex line with a 1/2" FIP end , rubber gasket, and metal nut. It physically cannot ever come apart. The house actually had that style of interconnect on 2 of 3 toilets. I'm original owner & house came that way.

Regardless -- seems you're saying a 3/8 compr valve outlet is now standard practice, so I should stick with that to not confuse future homeowners or plumbers.
 
frodo said:
if you are talking about using a cone washer and friction ring , DONT,
Click to expand...
No, definitely was Not. Perhaps not clear enough in my original post, but one option was using a 1/2" FIP end flex line, with captive metal nut & captive rubber cone gasket, and connecting that to the valve's slipjoint outlet (uses same metal thread & rubber cone washer).

But from SHR's reply, seems 3/8 compression is "best practice" so I should just standardize on that, through out the house.

Pic below is one example of flex line having one end that is 1/2" FIP
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1-2 FIP flex.PNG
 
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that is a compression supply, the supply house calls it a slip joint, we call it compression, because it fits on to a compression fitting and a slip joint is a cone washer and friction ring

if asked in the supply house what type of supply for a sink
my answer would be compression x lav

quick-tee-adapter-before-setup.jpg
 
I'm confused by what you mean of slip joint. Are you talking a ridged supply tube with nut and ferrule?
 
frodo said:
i agree with you, did you see the page from plumbing supply .com ?
Click to expand...

No, I am on drone computers at work so some links don't work. I understand there are different dialects of "plumbineze" lol. Like out here depending on which end of route 29 you are on sticks of pipe or either lengths, sticks, or joints. Took me a minute when I was filling in at another store years ago. Even working in the field I didn't hear some of the things I hear now.

:eek:
 
SHEPLMBR said:
I'm confused by what you mean of slip joint. Are you talking a ridged supply tube with nut and ferrule?
Click to expand...
No, wasn't referring to flex supply line.

I was referring only to the valve. Brasscraft calls it a "7/16 & 1/2 inch slip joint outlet".
For exmpl, see pic & description of Brasscraft KT3341 ,
https://www.brasscraft.com/product/12-in-nom-comp-x-716-in-12-in-slip-joint

You could install a rigid metal supply tube on the valve outlet, using the rubber cone washer/gasket, but that's NOT what I was ever intending.

What I had planned to use is a braided flex supply line to faucets, having "1/2 inch FIP" ends.
See: https://www.brasscraft.com/product/12-in-fip-x-12-in-fip

This flex line has captive metal nuts -- can Not separate the nut & line -- and a rubber cone washer.

I've been calling this "FIP ends", same as Brasscraft does , but I think you all have been calling it "compression" -- maybe the term varies by geographic region (I'm on west coast).

The flex supply line's FIP ends, appear to mate properly to the valve's "slip joint" outlet. The flex line can never pop out under pressure, because its nut is held captive on the flex line.
 
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frodo said:
the confusion is in the terminology
the link you provided shows you wanting to use a
1/2'' compression x 3/8'' compression angle stop valve

and you want a 1/2'' /fip x 3/8'' compression x length ? braided lav supply line
Click to expand...

Thanks Frodo. I wasn't loosing my mind.
 
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