Radiator bleed valve worn down

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meisha

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Hi all! I have a radiator that has the little bleed valve worn down to a tiny numb, and I'm wondering if anyone could give me advice about what my options are for fixing it or somehow using it as is. It's hard to see in the attached pics, but there's actually less of it that it look like in the picture, because it's flattened out a bit. I'm afraid to use vice grips and make it worse, but vice grips might be the answer. Could anyone offer a "for dummies" explanation of how to replace ir or a practical work-around? Thank you for your help!

radiator1.jpg

radiator2.jpg

radiator3.jpg
 
If that radiator is just heavily painted and not corroded ( hard to tell from my screen) you can change the manual air vent quite easily. Just take pressure off the zone and thread the old one out, install new 1/4" manual air vent, put water back on the zone and bleed the radiators.
 
If that radiator is just heavily painted and not corroded ( hard to tell from my screen) you can change the manual air vent quite easily. Just take pressure off the zone and thread the old one out, install new 1/4" manual air vent, put water back on the zone and bleed the radiators.

The vents are 1/8" Both the coin and key type.
 
Thank you both for your replies. Yes, it does look like paint build up rather than corrosion. I'm happy to know it's going to be fixable, but unsure of how to proceed. In order to take pressure off that zone, would I just turn off that particular radiator using the open/close handle on that particular radiator? Is it possible to describe the procedure for removing the old air vent? Would I just use a wrench and turn the part that looks like a nut? Thank you!
 
Thank you, John. Does that mean I have to shut down the whole circuit? I'm in an apartment building, so I wouldn't be able to do that till spring, but I could get by without this radiator using an electric one for now. In the spring, after the heat is turned off, then the pressure will be off, correct? Sorry to have so many questions. I appreciate your help and expertise.
 
meisha,

I think what they're saying is you'll need to shut down the boiler and release the pressure in the system. Usually there's a drain of some sort near the boiler that will need to be opened until there is zero (or almost zero) PSI in the loop, then you'll be able to replace that valve. You aren't draining the system, just releasing all the pressure. I'd wait for an expert to reply, but I think that's what you'll need to do here.
 
Thank you for your reply, Solid. If I wait till Spring when the heat is off, does that also mean the pressure is released (normally)? i'm hoping it's a repair I can do myself without bothering the landlord. We do all our repairs that we're able to do. Thanks again!
 
I have never understood people not wanting to "bother" the landlord. It's their house, and their maintenance. If you are inexperienced, you can end up doing 10x the damage to the property.

There's no reason not to make the landlord hire a professional and change it.
 
I agree with you, Matt, and ideally that would be true, however a professional plumber isn't necessarily what I get, and 50 percent of the time, I end up with new problems. For example, one guy he sent up twisted the stem of my hot water shut off valve knob until it wouldn't function anymore. Another time, a guy sent up to change a washer in a faucet ended up ruining the stem and scratching my tub. There are more examples, but in short, if the job is simple enough, I research into it and fix it myself. I've been here 25 years and have never caused any damage, but I can't say the same for the people that have been sent up to fix things. So I'm here asking for advice, to find out if it's a complicated job or simple, and to make sure I do it correctly.
I value and appreciate your expertise and experience on this forum. Thank you, everyone, for your help! :)
 

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