Confused about remodel, Shower/Tub Trim replacement

Hi,

I am new to plumbing. I do not know what to do in this situation.

I am remodeling a bathroom, and I am attempting to replace the bath/shower trim before I finish the cement/tile to make sure it will actually fit/work.

Anyway, I had a Delta system, so I bought new Delta trim. Old system was pre-2006. It seems like a nice fit, except the valve brace stem piece (forgive me for that terminology) on the old system is longer than the stem on the new system, in other words, I might have to replace the cartridges, when I thought I might get away with keeping everything in tact and just swapping the trim.

Does this mean I have to also replace the entire valve system (the new Delta kit came with a 4-way Valve, cartridge, and all the trim)? Is there another way to accomplish this without replacing the entire system?

I've attached pictures, the shame of it is, how close it is to fitting. The 2 pieces of cement board are so I can estimate how far the system sticks out from the wall once backerboard/tile are installed.

Thanks

Can you shut the water off and take a pic inside the valve, or of the old cartridge.
Depends if it's got those old "quad seals" I just had a time finding a cartridge for a pre 2006 delta 1700 with body sprays.

I opened up the cartridge and it's a dual, there's 2 blue circles. Replacing the cartridges didn't help as it turns out. I stil have a large gap. Wonder why? What am I missing?

http://imgur.com/ku8yg3A

what are you going to put on the wall ? what thickness ? what ever you put on the walll will move the face plate that much closer to the handle

understand ?

isnt that trim piece adjustable?

Do you have that little plastic ring in the barrel? You can try putting one in there if not.

I have a fix for you.

contact the manufacture about getting another trim piece that slides over the cartridge

cut/modify that piece, to fill the gap like a spacer

if you cut it with a tubing cutter, the cut will not be noticeable

Yeah so it turns out the reason why it doesn't fit is becuase the old brass valve is larger than the newer model brass by about a half inch. The only way to account for the difference is to install the new valve or purchase an extension case which I don't even think is produced.

The reason why the lever didn't fit correctly was the spacer needed to be used like spcwaters knew.

So here's a pic of how it looks now.
http://imgur.com/6UYgDJh

berwynpap said:

The reason why the lever didn't fit correctly was the spacer needed to be used like spcwaters knew.

So here's a pic of how it looks now.
http://imgur.com/6UYgDJh

Click to expand...

[emoji106]🏻 once ya get the tile on it'll look great! Good luck on the remodel!

redo the tub spout stub out and use a hy-set FIP adapter in the wall secured with a hyco strap or back ear 90 secured to wood.
use a brass nipple , NOT a galvanized one.
if you are using a slip on type spout you can install a copper stub out soldered to a mip adapter.
this way if you damage the copper stub out you can replace it with out opening the tile

frodo said:

what are you going to put on the wall ? what thickness ? what ever you put on the walll will move the face plate that much closer to the handle

understand ?

isnt that trim piece adjustable?

Click to expand...

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Mr_David said:

redo the tub spout stub out and use a hy-set FIP adapter in the wall secured with a hyco strap or back ear 90 secured to wood.
use a brass nipple , NOT a galvanized one.
if you are using a slip on type spout you can install a copper stub out soldered to a mip adapter.
this way if you damage the copper stub out you can replace it with out opening the tile

Click to expand...

Thats genius and never crossed my mind. I might just steal that idea (wingback 90 part)

we use em, shower heads, tub spouts,hose bibs

anywhere where you will be wrenching on it.

and the backing to hold the spout.works to hold the valve also

if you position the top of a 2x4 1/2'' above the dropeared 90, then, using a 1 1/2'' roofing nail

you can reach in the wall with your plyers open all the way.

squeeze your plyers and set the nail.

this is most handy,when the outside wall is already built and you need to secure he hose bib

Fair enough, we always use em for showerheads, mopsinks. We use sweat by sweat wingback 90s for lavs and flushvalves for toilets. Tub spout never crossed my mind but i like that idea for sure