2 inch adjustable shower drain question??

Hi, I'm doing a custom shower for the first time in a basement that is just under 6.5 feet tall. The intent was to use an open 2 inch sanitation tee that's available and plug the drain in there but every one of the drains I've looked at so far have a 2 inch female hub. I can obviously use a piece of drop-off pipe to bridge the drain to the tee but every inch counts with the joists being so low and really was hoping to find a drain with a male end instead of the hub. Has anyone come across anything that might work in this deal? If not a drain specifically is there a 2 inch tee that has a male opening in the middle and female openings on each end? Thanks!

Skip_Johnson said:

...Has anyone come across anything that might work in this deal?

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No.

Skip_Johnson said:

...is there a 2 inch tee that has a male opening in the middle and female openings on each end? Thanks!

Click to expand...

No.

You're best bet is to open the floor and go into the branch with a wye. Even then, you won't gain any depth to speak of after you put in the p-trap. You were going to do a trap, right?

Hi, thanks for the response. Yeah, the trap is already in place. I could put in a Y horizontally and add a street 90 to it i guess.

I am totally lost as to what you are trying to do.

picture?

Here's the. picture

So it's on it's side (the pic) but you can see the 2 inch sanitary tee flush with the concrete floor. I ideally need a drain that will glue directly into that female hub available on the tee rather than use a piece of straight 2 inch pipe cut to size (like as a close nipple would function in steel pipes). Gluing it directly on top of the tee raises the final height of the wet bed surface by ~2 more inches than if it could be glued directly into the tee. The reason this is such a big deal when otherwise it would normally never matter is only b/c this is in a basement with no headroom to spare. Am I missing something totally obvious here? Thanks again for the responses.

I think terminology is messing us up.

the pipe in the picture

you are calling that a "TEE" is it in fact a tee or a p-trap?

first picture is a ptrap
2nd is a tee

which one is sticking up thru the concrete?

take this picture, with you to a plumbing supply store . not a home depot or ace

tell the guy behind the countor to find you one of theses and order it. in 2'' pvc, glue fitting

when you set this, you will need to seal the concrete in that shower,

Thanks Frodo, I've never seen that component you've listed, what is the term for it? And as to the terminology issue mentioned above the P trap is located further back in the line closer to the main horizontal and it is completely buried under the concrete floor. What is flush with the floor is the top of the middle opening of a 2 inch sanitary tee. To visualize it is placed exactly like an upside capital letter "T" in the middle of the entire drain system for the bathroom.

Skip_Johnson said:

Thanks Frodo, I've never seen that component you've listed, what is the term for it? And as to the terminology issue mentioned above the P trap is located further back in the line closer to the main horizontal and it is completely buried under the concrete floor. What is flush with the floor is the top of the middle opening of a 2 inch sanitary tee. To visualize it is placed exactly like an upside capital letter "T" in the middle of the entire drain system for the bathroom.

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You're not going to get a shower plumbed in correctly the way it is now.

Mmm, not sure about that, my main and only concern is salvaging as much headroom as possible given the initial setting and joist height. I can't nor ever could have placed any fittings vertically in this line and still had proper pitch present as doing so would have placed them lower than the main horizontal. Are you saying to redo the line and plug a Y horizontally, then close-nipple to a street 90, have male end flush with the floor and then put the adjustable drain female hub to that?

no, I am saying you need to bust the floor up and move the trap to a new location. perferably the center of the shower. then, instead of a 90 install a shower drain on to the trap. you do not have to replace the wye





i agree with plbgbiz you get to let all your frustrations out.

you got a sledge hammer? pick a spot on that floor. with a 14lb hammer hit that spot like it stole your girl friend
about 3 times. it should break thru, then start breaking up the rest of the floor . unearth that trap
and move it to where you want it.

after you get it busted up, post back

what you have under the slab. and what you are going to put in, are pretty much the same

in other words take out 6''--but back 6''

another thing, you need to water proof that floor. concrete is porus. what you have right now is not water proof

look at a product called Kerdi http://www.schluter.com/8_4_kerdi_shower_kit_installation.aspx

well, got it in- took some running around to find the fitting though. This is a cast iron version similar to the pvc P-trap/drain combination fitting someone pictured earlier in the thread. The cool thing with this one though is it has the P trap function and still operates fully as an adjustable shower drain with the bolt-on flange and screw-in top piece.

On a side note I'm usually much cleaner with my pvc joints. The piece with the cats paw on it was a little too long the first time I went to put everything together. and squeeze the new in between the old ends and everything was already primed and glued. So I had to cut it real fast and slam it back in. Messes happen. Thanks again for all the advice!

View attachment 1420678443662.jpg

Oh, and regarding water proofing, yeah for sure- already have my kerdi roll here and ready. Does anyone have an opinion on the best water proofing product? Roll-on or fabric? Redgard or kerdi? Anyone have any experience with Laticrete products?

......................

Gawd da**** Frodo!

Now I have BizBrew spilled all over my keyboard.

plbgbiz said:

No.

You're best bet is to open the floor and go into the branch with a wye.

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Skip...
Re-read ^^^.

A wye, not a sanitary tee. Cut it out and do it over.

Hmm, thanks for the pic. What's the advantage of using a wye here instead of the sanitary tee? Is the flow not sufficient?