Toilet flange help

My toilet rocked and I found that one of the bolts would not tighten

The toilet is on a concrete floor on removing the toilet I found out why it rocked



You can see the flange does not sit flush with the floor on one side and it sticks up quite a bit.

Because of this one side has cracked and come off




I can see they did not clear the concrete away from one side and this is the reason why the flange is so uneven.

I can see 4 very rusted screws can i remove them and then will the flange lift out ? could I then use a cold chisel or a grinder to try and remove some of the concrete to try and put a new flange in that would sit at least level.

Thanks for your advise

You can get a replacement flange ring and screw it right over the top of the old one. Try to use a stainless steel one. Also, get a wax ring with a flange so that it fits into the pipe.

The toilet may have rocked because the concrete floor may not be level. I like to use plastic shims to prevent any rocking before siliconing the toilet.

Thanks for the comment. You might see 3 smaller holes in the flange I had tried to screw in a new metal flange but by doing that the toilet would not even sit on the floor due to the original flange being so high up.

I agree about using the plastic shims and caulking, this has worked well in the past for me but this one is causing me a few headakes.

The flange appears to be connected to the waste pipe... I was hoping there was a gasket so I could remove the old flange level the concrete and insert a new flange.

That surprises me that the new flange raised it up too high. Was that a plastic flange? http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/ResidentialDrainage/Closet-Flanges/Ringer.829NY. In my experience, because this flange is recessed, it doesn't raise the total height more than 1/8" or so. Or maybe you could get creative and carve out the old flange so that the new one sits lower.

Christoph said:

That surprises me that the new flange raised it up too high. Was that a plastic flange? http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/ResidentialDrainage/Closet-Flanges/Ringer.829NY. In my experience, because this flange is recessed, it doesn't raise the total height more than 1/8" or so. Or maybe you could get creative and carve out the old flange so that the new one sits lower.

Click to expand...

Hi Christoph the old plastic closet flange was not recessed enough it was also at an angle its hard to see from the photo but adding the stainless steel ring on the top caused the toilet to not even sit on the floor.

I have cut out the old outer Closet flange and will insert a inter 3" closet flange after I level the concrete a little.

The new closet flange has a gasket do I have to cement/glue it in place. its plastic and metal this time so it should not break but I am hoping if it ever does go bad I can remove it.

I had a general read and I have a Push-Tite™ Gasketed Closet Flange 888-GPM just like from your above link and it does not call for cement.

Can you post a picture of the new flange you are trying to install?

johnjh2o said:

Can you post a picture of the new flange you are trying to install?

Click to expand...

http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/ResidentialDrainage/Closet-Flanges/Push-Tite.VZ8US

I cut out the old closet flange and then installed the one in the above link 888gpm

I found the drain line was also on a slant and was able to push it and then screw it and my new flange sat pretty plum.

All appears good now

That should work fine as long as you have it screwed down.

I had 80 people use it at the weekend and it all worked just fine.

Happy to hear it worked out for you.