I always like solder on better than compression.That isn't a chrome sleeve. It's just the copper pipe with some solder wiped into it. If you look at the valve you can see what I'm saying. (A anybody that has actually soldered those stops on.)
If it were me I would just cut off the valve carefully, sand it smooth and install a new compression type angle stop with a 3/8" outlet.
I found that if you use compression on type L pipe it would some time leak, You had to go back and use two 10 inch adjustable wrench to really stop the leak .We use compression for stops, with deep escutcheons so you can change them
Know that I blew up the pic your right just a soldered valveThat isn't a chrome sleeve. It's just the copper pipe with some solder wiped into it. If you look at the valve you can see what I'm saying. (A anybody that has actually soldered those stops on.)
If it were me I would just cut off the valve carefully, sand it smooth and install a new compression type angle stop with a 3/8" outlet.
Sure, sweat stops are the strongest. But laying on your back inside a small vanity/cabinet and soldering valves above your face is NOT what I would look forward to. From the picture here, it would seem that there is plenty of space to cut it off and put on a compression stop. Clean up the solder on the pipe with sandpaper and it should fit fine.I always like solder on better than compression.
Personally I would find it more difficult physically to tighten a 5/8 compression nut in the back of a small cabinet rather than soldering the stops on.Sure, sweat stops are the strongest. But laying on your back inside a small vanity/cabinet and soldering valves above your face is NOT what I would look forward to. From the picture here, it would seem that there is plenty of space to cut it off and put on a compression stop. Clean up the solder on the pipe with sandpaper and it should fit fine.
I always put a little silicone grease on the threads of the nut before I install them. Then the nut goes on smoothly and the ring seals well.
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