Low water flow at all fixtures with new PEX install in 1BR/1BA

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Fabler

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Austin
I have new PEX plumbing running through the attic in a 1BR/1BA guesthouse with 3/4” supply running ~20-25 feet to the WH and then to a manifold that branches water out with 1/2” PEX.

I have the incoming water pressure set to 65 PSI (have also increased it), but the issue I’m seeing is low flow almost immediately.

I can watch the water pressure drop from 65 to 0, then it will build back up once the fixture is closed.

The kitchen and bathroom sinks run decent enough to make use of, but the shower is basically useless. The toilet is useable but obviously fills slower than it should.

I’ve eliminated the incoming check valve+PCV by running direct feed of ~85psi; all the PEX appears leak free in attic; and the WH has also been bypassed.

I’ve tried isolating every fixture except one for all fixtures except the washer and the fridge water (neither turned on yet), but flow is always lower than it should be.

I think the only things I haven’t eliminated are possible routing issues in attic (runs are pretty straightforward), the thermostatic valve for the shower, or the main manifold itself...but all the valves on that seem to operate fine and I can clearly hear lines charging when I actuate them.

Throwing it out there for any thoughts anyone may have. One other note that may be nonstandard is the incoming supply feeds the toilet with cold water before it goes to the WH. The toilet wall was closest so didn’t see the point in running water back to it through the manifold ~20’ further down. Not sure if this would cause a drop in flow even when the toilet isn’t in use though.

There is one cold run to the outside of the house branched off of that is also 3/4”, along with a hot water 1/2” line for an outdoor shower.

If I attach a gauge to the cold and run the hot without a fixture (valved line), then I can watch the pressure drop off on the cold to zero in less than 10 seconds). I’m sure the same would be true vice versa.

The pressure drop off isn’t that quick inside and the only place that is completely shot is the shower, so I’m thinking my fancy thermostatic valve from Ferguson’s May have an issue...not sure that would impact everything though.
 
Your description is long so gonna ask if you have tried bypassing the prv to see if the pressure stays constant
Sorry - laying out everything in one swoop. I’ve activated the pressure relief valve many times throughout this on the water heater.

Initially to help purge air but I haven’t checked the impact of purging on the water pressure. It seems to drop off pretty quick though (comparable to the faucet without an aerator).

I’m not sure if that’s what you meant by bypassing it?
 
Do you have something that looks like this
it could be after the water meter in the pit
or by the water heater, or where the water comes in the house

View attachment 25959
Yes, I was worried this type pressure regulating valve was my issue initially, so I bypassed it and the check valve and ran direct 85 PSI. The pressure increased a bit, but flow still dropped off over a few minutes.

I then installed a different shark bite valve with a slip fitting and adjusted it to~65 again just to avoid any future issues once I do solve the issue.

Since there are no leaks, I need to follow the lines I can see for anything pinched maybe, but the other thing I’m worried about is possibly have two branch offs on the cold supply line before getting to water heater: 1. At the beginning going to the toilet 2. A cold line coming back to the exterior wall.

I’ll draw up a diagram as I’m sure that’d be more helpful.
 
Yes, I was worried this type pressure regulating valve was my issue initially, so I bypassed it and the check valve and ran direct 85 PSI. The pressure increased a bit, but flow still dropped off over a few minutes.

I then installed a different shark bite valve with a slip fitting and adjusted it to~65 again just to avoid any future issues once I do solve the issue.

Since there are no leaks, I need to follow the lines I can see for anything pinched maybe, but the other thing I’m worried about is possibly have two branch offs on the cold supply line before getting to water heater: 1. At the beginning going to the toilet 2. A cold line coming back to the exterior wall.

I’ll draw up a diagram as I’m sure that’d be more helpful.
Also worried about incoming volume being an issue since it is only a 3/4” line to the guesthouse vs 1” to the main house, but wouldn’t think the flow would drop off that quick.
 
A diagram would certainly help. You said you attached a gauge; where did you attach this gage? The flow restriction would be upstream of your gage.
The flow through a regular shower head is about 2.5 GPM. The pressure drop at 2.5 GPM thru a 10' long 3/4" PEX is about 0.35 psi, and about 1.9 psi for 1/2" PEX. So when you open the shower faucet, the pressure drop should be no more than a couple of pounds, which means that you have a severe restriction somewhere.
 
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