Is this a good setup?

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Anton Morozov

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Hi guys, I'm upgrading our laundry room and I have a new set up because before everything was open and we had a lot of pipes and electrical shown. We live in northern NJ. Can you guys just check if everything is up to code and looking good? From right to left it will be dryer, washer and a utility sink.
I can provide more pictures if needed later.
Obviously its not all done yet. Everything will be strapped and hot line attached. Exhaust vent will go across from top left to bottom right because its where existing one was located and now dryer is moved from left to right.
Thanks
 

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Shouldn’t the trap for the washer standpipe have a vent connection to the riser for the AAV on the laundry sink?
Or maybe its own high AAV would also work?
Right now it looks like a S trap, I think.

And will the AAV need to be accessible, like a box around it for inspection or service, not buried behind a wall?
 
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Is that gray grid part of a drainage system for seepage?

If so, I question why you used metal for the sole plate, I would suggest treated wood.
 
That is a s trap which is illegal also aav need to have access so they can be changed
 
I had already started my response, so it be be a bit redundant.

First off, you appear to be dumping that new 2" drain line into a 1-1/2" pipe.(Far right) Codes typically do not allow you to reduce pipe size in the direction of flow. Also, a 2" washer/laundry sink drain should connect to a 3" pipe line before it goes too far.

Then you have a non-code approved S-trap arrangement for the washer standpipe. A P-trap is required and it must be vented before it drops down. The min. trap arm length is two pipe diameters(or 4" for 2" pipe)
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trap arm lenth reqts.png

As mentioned, access should be provided for AAV's, as they due fail.
 
I don’t see a drip leg by the new gas valve for the dryer, not sure if code requires it.
 
We will put access panels to AAV and a clean out next to dryer.
About S-Trap I have no idea.
 
If a drip leg (sediment trap) is required by the gas valve, you might also have to reroute the gas line so it drops down from above, to a Tee ending in a drip leg, then turns left out of the Tee.

I think the codes require a 90 degree turn, so that moisture or debris can’t blow right across the opening into the drip leg.
 
I had already started my response, so it be be a bit redundant.

First off, you appear to be dumping that new 2" drain line into a 1-1/2" pipe.(Far right) Codes typically do not allow you to reduce pipe size in the direction of flow. Also, a 2" washer/laundry sink drain should connect to a 3" pipe line before it goes too far.

Then you have a non-code approved S-trap arrangement for the washer standpipe. A P-trap is required and it must be vented before it drops down. The min. trap arm length is two pipe diameters(or 4" for 2" pipe)
.
View attachment 23520

As mentioned, access should be provided for AAV's, as they due fail.
Yeah good catch with all that draining into a smaller pipe size.

All of that work that you just did does not mean anything if you're going to drain it into an inch and a half pipe it will not work it is not code compliant and it must be ripped out and completely done in 2 inch and then dumped into a larger pipe size
 
Plumbing is definitely something that I dont know much about. To me it looked like everything was good :(
Here are a few more pictures that I took today20200225_213900.jpg 20200225_213846.jpg 20200225_213900.jpg 20200225_213754.jpg 20200225_213801.jpg
 
You can only use the 1 1/2 line for a washer if you are dumping it into a laundry sink. If you have a sink, why are you dumping into a washer box. What else are you dumping into the 1 1/2 pipe right before the stack? Dryers dont need a drip leg, although I would turn the gas sideways also.
 
I have a central humidifier that would be dumping a lot of water into the sink as well as a washer. My laundry room sounded like a constant toilet with running water. That is one of the main reasons why we wanted to change it. So 3/4 pipe was exposed on the wall going into sink from ac unit and dripping water from unused humidifier. With this setup, pipe would be inside utility room instead of laundry room and constant drippage won't be visible and hopefully quite.
 
So do we need to completely replace everything or we could just make a few adjustments? And what exactly would they be?
 
That looks like the non-trapped standpipe he was providing for the AC drain.
He did say he was moving it to the utility room instead of laundry room.
 
It would be better if you put a 2x 1 1/2 male adapter into the stack and went 2" from there. I have seen inspectors pass that. Everyone is right about using a TY on the trap, its an s trap. You can put the 3/4 ac drain into the washer box by drilling a hole above the drain opening and putting on a coupling with threads on the bottom and adapter to go threaded to 3/8 hose barb and put a small piece of tubing which goes in the pipe below. More later
 
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