laundry tub contains an s-type trap

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bruceg

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My basement laundry tub contains an s-type trap and the tub works fine. No slow drain issues and no noise issues.

The laundry tub drain pipe is 1-1/2 inches (plastic) connected to a 1-1/2-inch s-trap (plastic) connected to a 2-inch metal drain pipe (about 4”) and then to the main 4 inch cast iron pipe. I estimate the stack pipe is 4 feet away from the laundry tub.

Will having an s-trap be an issue when I sell my house? I live in PA.
 
OK, I just uploaded a picture of my laundry tub s-trap configuration.
I should note that my house is 80 years old.
Prior to my current PVC laundry tub (of 30 years), there was a concrete tub.
The 2-inch metal drain pipe has always existed.

Thanks,
Bruce
 

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The outlet side of the trap is supposed enter the drain on the same plain like your p traps on
your other sinks
Can you /someone move that drain connection up so a p trap will work
Will it be a deal breaker,not sure dont want to find out when selling
 
Hi Geofd,

If this is your comment, "enter the drain", I know one of the traps is installed opposite convention.
I did this 30 years simply because of ease of install at the time.
30 years has gone by very fast and now I am considering moving.
I want to take the needed steps to make sure there are no issues at inspection time.
I believe I can make a p-trap connection by extending the tailpipe and removing one of the traps.

Thank you for your response,
Bruce
 
The 1st part of the p trap is upside down the wider end slips over the tai peice,looks like you will have to raise the older drainso the trap arm enters the old drain with just minimal pitch
 
I believe I can make a p-trap connection by extending the tailpipe
Looks to me like it may work. Easy enough to test idea. Of course, install the trap right way around this time
 
If I knew 30 years ago that s-traps were not legal, I would have installed a p-trap.
It will take some time before I get to this task, but I will post my results with the trap in the correct position.
 
And don't forget to verify the existence of a vent in that wall or plan on adding an AAV after the p trap arrangement.
Every trap must be protected by a vent.
 
The house main vent stack pipe is approx 4 feet away from the laundry tub.
 
From the table, my laundry tub (1-1/2 trap) is in code.

My house is 80 years old and the only work I did was to replace a concrete tub with a PVC tub.
I did not relocate any plumbing but I did replace the metal trap with a PVC trap.
I would consider this setup and changes to be grandfathered.

Thanks again for the table,
Bruce
 
From the table, my laundry tub (1-1/2 trap) is in code.

My house is 80 years old and the only work I did was to replace a concrete tub with a PVC tub.
I did not relocate any plumbing but I did replace the metal trap with a PVC trap.
I would consider this setup and changes to be grandfathered.

Thanks again for the table,
Bruce
You lost me with this one!
 
OK, I should have not mentioned grandfathered.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
I updated my laundry tub from an S-trap to a P-trap.

The first picture is the "before" picture.
The next pictures are the "after" pictures.
Does this setup look correct?

I needed to use a flexible coupler simply because I could not get the plastic nut to connect to the metal pipe securely.
Is the use of a flexible coupler acceptable?

Finally, from DieHard:
"And don't forget to verify the existence of a vent in that wall or plan on adding an AAV after the p trap arrangement.
Every trap must be protected by a vent."​
The laundry tube works great, no gurgling sounds.
The laundry tub is approx 4ft from the main house stack.
Does my setup need an AAV?


Thanks,
Bruce



Before.jpg After_1.jpg After_2.jpg
Before.jpg After_1.jpg After_2.jpg
 
In the wall where your plastic attaches to the old pipe does it go into a tee or a 90 elbow. Can you take a picture of that
setup in the wall.
 
Hopefully this picture helps.
Is this a Wye connection?

Thanks,
Bruce
 

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That's not a stack it's connected to but it would likely perform okay since that horizontal cast iron pipe is so much bigger.
Probably not code unless it's circuit vented.
We'll leave that one up to the plumbers.
 
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