Can’t get new water heater hot enough

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Nellbagom

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Oct 28, 2019
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Location
Derry NH USA
Hi all,
So I had a new water heater installed. It was an emergency so I don’t even have the guys name otherwise I would obviously ask him. Problem is I can’t get the water hot enough for my wife. He showed me how to put the temp up and it’s all the way but still not hot enough. He said he put some kind of new safety thing on it so I’m thinking that might be it and not the regular knob he showed me. I’ll post a picture to see if anyone has any ideas how I can fix this. thanks in advance!
upload_2019-10-28_18-48-25.jpeg

Donupload_2019-10-28_18-48-25.jpeg
 
So what did he show you to put the temp up?

If it was down on the lower side of the tank, that would be the built in unit to adjust the water temperature in the tank. Should be at least 120 degrees F to discourage legionella.

The tempering valve, which is shown in your picture is selecting the temperature that goes to you water fixtures. This is a nice added feature to allow you to further adjust your water temperature by mixing some cold with the hot to temper it. That's what you should be using to adjust your temperature higher or lower once your tank water temperature is set at at least 120 F.

Then if you find your water still isn't hot enough report back and we'll discuss the option to raise your tanks water temperature above 120 F. Rather not get into that now if you don't have to.

EDIT: I assume that strip attached to that HW pipe shows a temperature. What's that reading?
 
Unrelated to your issue, but where is the TPR valve on this heater?

Is it that black plastic thing coming out of the elbow on the cold side?
There is no pipe on that to carry away the discharge, or a test lever.
What is that thing there?

Maybe it is lower down on the heater, out of the frame of the picture, or back against the corner where we can’t see it?

And why are there two lever handle ball valves on the incoming cold line, one old and one new?
Maybe the old one was failing?

Just wondering....

BTW I am really liking how pretty and well aligned everything is on there, just saying.....
 
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first off
anti_syphon_vac_break.png

secondly
get rid of the cheesy temp strip, it is not accurate, put it on your coffee cup or inside your freezer.
rent a propress machine,or...[ i cant believe i am saying this] a shark bite fitting, cut a tee into the line where Mr Cheesy was just evicted from. install a valve then a temp gauge
0-200
that will give you accurate readings
 
Is it that black plastic thing coming out of the elbow on the cold side?
There is no pipe on that to carry away the discharge, or a test lever.
What is that thing there?

anti siphon vacuum breaker
illegal to use it under pressure, it has to be after a valve, can not have pressure for more than 12 hours per day
it is the same as a atmospheric vacuum breaker

good catch btw
T&P is side tank mounted
 
LOL
That's not an anti siphon vacuum breaker, it's Vacuum Relief Valve.

EDIT: BTW a piped in temperature gauge is nice but not necessary. A simple hand held kitchen thermometer would probably suffice. Or just use your finger.
 
Last edited:
A vacuum relief allows air to enter into the piping to prevent back-siphonage.



the caveman approach to setting the water temp is not working in this instance
otherwise he would not be asking for help.
the accurate method of seeing the temp is looking at a gauge
 
Thank you all,
So to adjust the temp I should open the raised panel on the heater and look in there? I don’t wanna play around with it too much. Should I have a pro come out? Anyone live in the Derry by area?
Don
 
A vacuum relief allows air to enter into the piping to prevent back-siphonage.



the caveman approach to setting the water temp is not working in this instance
otherwise he would not be asking for help.

the accurate method of seeing the temp is looking at a gauge
Sounds like you missed the question.
He's looking for what controls the temperature of the water that his wife is complaining about.
 
Thank you all,
So to adjust the temp I should open the raised panel on the heater and look in there? I don’t wanna play around with it too much. Should I have a pro come out? Anyone live in the Derry by area?
Don
So Don, it sounds like you're saying that you have been adjusting that tempering valve installed on top the heater and have turned it all the way up.
Look at your owners manual regarding the water heater temperature setting. It should show and explain the simple heat settings available for you to select.
If you don't have a visible temperature control without removing a panel it's likely an electric unit. Exactly what heater do you have.

Edited about 2 hours after posting.
 
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Step 1
Locate the hand wheel on top of the main valve body.

Step 2
Use a screwdriver to loosen the screw on top of the hand wheel. Don't remove the screw entirely.

Step 3
Lift the hand wheel slightly, but do not attempt to remove it. Lifting it allows you to adjust the temperature.

Step 4
Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise to reduce the temperature. Turn the wheel clockwise to increase the temperature.

Step 5
Press the hand wheel down gently to lock in the temperature setting. Tighten the screw.
 
So Don, it sounds like you're saying that you have been adjusting that tempering valve installed on top the heater and have turned it all the way up.
Look at your owners manual regarding the water heater temperature setting. It should show and explain the simple heat settings available for you to select.
If you don't have a visible temperature control without removing a panel it's likely an electric unit. Exactly what heater do you have.

Edited about 2 hours after posting.
Thanks Diehard,
It's definitely electric, I'll check what exact model when i get home. the only thing I've tried to adjust to make the water hotter is the knob with blue and red on it...
Matt I appreciate the help but i wouldn't know a main valve body from a secondary valve body....now if you need computer help, lol....
TY!
 
Don...Did you not get an instruction manual for that Thermostatic mixing Valve you show on top of the tank. The best I can determine, it's a Honeywell AMX 300 TLF.

Although I could not find a good explanation on the operation of this valve it does sound like what Matt30's 5 steps were for.
I believe they referred to it as a tamper proof setting.

So that may be the answer to your problem. You were not actually changing the temperature setting when you were turning(?) it.
The hand wheel being that grey plastic knob on that Thermostatic mixing Valve.
 
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Okay...Well you didn't address the comments on the operation of the tempering valve installed on top the heater. Did you try adjusting the temperature by simply turning the knob or did you adjust it based on the above instructions by Matt30?
You stated that the plumber showed you how to put the temp up. Did he show you the method Matt30 described?

I think we should assume that the setting for the heater is as delivered by the factory, which is 120 degrees F and first make sure you are correctly adjusting that tank top tempering valve.

Based on what I believe to be the Owners Manual(copy attached) for your unit, which you should have, it has 3 set point settings of 80/120/150. 80 being too low and 150 being too high.
 

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