Copper pipe against a wall

I am installing a pelican conditioner/filter using the soft water loop installed by the builder. After I cut the loop and add the 1” pipe is there a reason not to install 3 elbows to run the pipe back to the wall and then down to the output of the conditioner? This will allow me to place the conditioner as close as possible to the wall as well as allow for adding a strap to secure the pipe to the wall for extra stability.
Reason I ask is looking at neighbors who had theirs professionally installed the plumber just ran the pipe straight down leaving the pipe and conditioner 4” away from the wall.

I've got a pretty good idea of what you're looking to do, but a picture or two helps.

Thanks Doc. Here's a couple of pics of a professional installation.

You can see in the second picture there is a gap between the return pipe and the wall. I'd like to eliminate that by cutting the soft water loop further out from the wall and then using elbows to bring the pipe back flush to the wall. Ignore the electrical outlet I don't have one at that location.

I am also planning on using copper pipe and fittings to replace the stainless steel flex connectors.

You state that the pictures are of a professional installation, they are not of your situation ?!?
Show me what you have to work with, not what someone else has.

That's like asking "is this fruit bad?" and including pics of a fruit salad.

I already understand where you want to go, I need to see where we are starting.

Sorry, I misunderstood. Here is my loop.

I went ahead and cut the loop and installed the filter and bypass valves. The supply line is on the right and of course the filter system (sediment filter -> carbon filter -> conditioner (shown)) connect from left to right. So the right pipe will have to travel left to feed the sediment filter while the left pipe crosses to the right to pickup the output from the conditioner.
So, is it OK to use an elbow and a 45 to run the return pipe along the wall to connect to the conditioner such that the conditioner elbow (seen in second picture) is also touching the wall. Or should I leave a 1" - 2" gap as the professional did in the earlier picture.

It looks like you've got it pretty well under control.
You could turn the conditioner 90 degrees and run fittings to it. Easier to solder and will save 2-3".
What was that piece of PEX coming out of the wall for? Seems that the left valve handle will interfere with it.

Could be 3 reasons i can think of for the standoff. But i am not a plumber just a DIY homeowner. 1) pipe sweat could get the drywall wet an cause all kinds of issues, mold, etc. 2) Ease of access for repairs if needed. Would be more difficult to sweat pipe with it directly againt the drywall. 3) Possible code requirements?

I recommend that you use stainless steel flex connectors (aka water heater flex). They are available up to 2"
Equipment mfrs go out of business and you don't want to be stuck with one mfrs connections anyway.
Does the equipment possibly have street 90's as shown in the early photos of other installations.
NICE looking bypass, by the way!