Shut off valve for outside spigot

I believe the spigot repair was touched upon back in post #9.
I believe he is waiting and would prefer to have it done professionally by a plumber.
But in the meantime would like to find the appropriate and likely, dedicated shut off valve for it.

Jeff Handy said:

You are not paying attention to the good advice Frodo spelled out for you.

He was explaining how to take the hose bib apart, to be able to remove the stem, which is the part that gets turned by the handle.

The stem moves in and out to control water flow.

Inside the hose bib, the stem has a rubber or plastic washer that creates the seal that shuts off the water.

This little washer can be easily replaced.

Once you remove the handle, there is a small nut that holds the stem inside the hose bib.

Unscrew that nut, then the whole stem can come out.

Click to expand...

Jeff, I tried to remove the nut, it will not budge. I know once I get it off I can replace the washer

Diehard said:

You could do what I did when I was Identifying all my fuses and their circuts.
If you haven't already, you could try shutting off one of those many valves at a time to see if it stops it. However, even with the correct valve, it would likely still drip for a while so you'll have to open the spigot.

Click to expand...

Diehard I’ve done that....no luck. I’ve shut off every valve I could find. In my previous post I stated that I shook it as suggested and it connects to a toilet....I turned that valve and the hose still drips

Maybe you are turning it the wrong way?
It comes off by turning counter-clockwise.
AKA leftie-loosie.

But it could be corroded on, and if you break it, you will have to turn off all your water.

Unless you can find the supply shut-off that is eluding you down in that old basement.

Talk to a handy neighbor, or ask at your hardware store if any of the handy folks there will take on this very simple job for you.

It will be cheaper than a pro plumber, and they can help you find the correct shut-off valve to label it for the future.
All at a lower hourly rate.

If you live somewhere with warm winters, there might not be a dedicated shut-off anywhere.

The main reason for a separate shut-off in the basement is to be able to drain the hose bib for winter, so it won’t burst from freezing.

charrbrad said:

Diehard I’ve done that....no luck. I’ve shut off every valve I could find. In my previous post I stated that I shook it as suggested and it connects to a toilet....I turned that valve and the hose still drips

Click to expand...

Yeah..."from the wall behind the toilet." doesn't necessarily mean, but could be, connected to the toilet.
If it was it would be by way of having a common pipe feeding both the toilet and the Spigot.
I know it's tough when everything is hidden behind walls and ceilings.

When you say, "I turned that valve and the hose still drips", you're not talking about that small valve right below the toilet, are you?

What gets me is if it doesn't have a dedicated valve that's accessible, how is that spigot not freezing and splitting in the winter. Rhetorical question.

Jeff Handy said:

If you live somewhere with warm winters, there might not be a dedicated shut-off anywhere.

The main reason for a separate shut-off in the basement is to be able to drain the hose bib for winter, so it won’t burst from freezing.

Click to expand...

New Jersey

charrbrad said:

Diehard I’ve done that....no luck. I’ve shut off every valve I could find. In my previous post I stated that I shook it as suggested and it connects to a toilet....I turned that valve and the hose still drips

Click to expand...

Okay but remember there would be some residual dripping after you shut off the feed to it.

Diehard said:

Okay but remember there would be some residual dripping after you shut off the feed to it.

Click to expand...

Yes the valve behind the toilet. I shut the water off to the house and removed the valve....and even though the water was off, water was still pouring out from where I removed the valve. I don’t know what’s going on with this house, but thank you again for your patience.

Diehard said:

Yeah..."from the wall behind the toilet." doesn't necessarily mean, but could be, connected to the toilet.
If it was it would be by way of having a common pipe feeding both the toilet and the Spigot.
I know it's tough when everything is hidden behind walls and ceilings.

When you say, "I turned that valve and the hose still drips", you're not talking about that small valve right below the toilet, are you?

What gets me is if it doesn't have a dedicated valve that's accessible, how is that spigot not freezing and splitting in the winter. Rhetorical question.

Click to expand...

I think it’s a common pipe

charrbrad said:

I think it’s a common pipe

Click to expand...

Other than the fact that your hose bib looks somewhat old, it is possible that it's a freeze proof spigot. The reason I say that is due to the fact that the stem and handle are in line(parallel) with the pipe.

charrbrad said:

Yes the valve behind the toilet. I shut the water off to the house and removed the valve....and even though the water was off, water was still pouring out from where I removed the valve. I don’t know what’s going on with this house, but thank you again for your patience.

Click to expand...

Looks like I missed seeing this comment.
I really can't follow it though.

You shut the main water valve to the house???
Removed what valve??
You must remember that all the pipes are full of water and subject to draining down by gravity. So depending on what valve you say you removed, the entire line could be draining down by gravity. And if it' start gurgling, or the like, it's because it's trying to replace the draining water with air. Typically the draining would be done faster if a faucet was opened at a higher level.
Are you awaiting a plumber?

Slightly off topic, but my parents’ house west of Chicago had two exterior hose bibs, being fed from the basement, going through a concrete block wall with brick veneer, with air space between the two.

They were regular old brass sillcocks, soldered to 1/2 inch copper supply lines.

They were never insulated, never covered in foam caps in winter, never drained, and never had any problems, in the 58 years they lived there.
Including plenty of -20 F or even colder winters.

I was amazed, but I guess they must have got enough heat from the basement to avoid splitting open.

Yes...I've noticed that at a number of places around me. Many shut and drain and many don't Some freeze p and many don't. Like you say, some may get enough heat from the basement, etc.

I had one of my (2) non-freeze hose bibs succumb to vacuum breaker damage when I forgot to remove the attached hose. Didn't crack the hose bib but damaged the interior of the vacuum breaker causing it to leak water when hose bib was turned on against a closed hose valve.

Around here, that vacuum breaker is a cheap plastic part, which often breaks from the cold or just craps out because they are pbly Chinese garbage.

I am seeing that flimsy plastic part going extinct on newer construction.
Now the vacuum breaker is brass, and is locked on to the hose threads, and has its own hose threads to accept the garden hose.

Much sturdier, and replaceable if not too hard to loosen the set screw on the threads.

Yeah ...I won't use those.

mine is built into the non freeze hose bib assembly.

Just from my casual observations, it seems like home builders around here are recently favoring the type with the hose thread brass attachment.

I only noticed them because I do landscaping as part of my handyman business, and the brass screw-on ones need strong water pressure turned on, or else they piss out water when I am using water outside.

Anyway, I am clogging up this thread with off-topic, sorry for the tangent.

It's been pretty quiet on the plumbing front.
Don't think OP would mind.
I'm out now anyway.

Diehard said:

Looks like I missed seeing this comment.
I really can't follow it though.

You shut the main water valve to the house???
Removed what valve??
You must remember that all the pipes are full of water and subject to draining down by gravity. So depending on what valve you say you removed, the entire line could be draining down by gravity. And if it' start gurgling, or the like, it's because it's trying to replace the draining water with air. Typically the draining would be done faster if a faucet was opened at a higher level.
Are you awaiting a plumber?

Click to expand...

I’m thinking I may need a plumber....ugggg. The thick arrow in the picture in the front is the nut I am trying to remove....the second arrow in the back not sure what that is.

That is a boiler drain not a hose bib
it is soldered onto the pipe, it is not threaded

the way that you loosen that nut
using a 14'' or a 18'' pipe wrench
hold backup on the valve, so that it does not move
use a box end wrench, preferably a 16 point box end

turn the box end wrench to the left



many valves , the pipe fits into the brass
so you have an option. solder it or screw it
they soldered it