GE Smart Water Heater breaker size

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wcs

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Hello,

I have a I have a 240 volts GE Smart Water Heater. GE50T6EA

The label shows it's a dual element and there are two thermostat cover openings.

Upper 4500 watts
Lower 4500 watts
---------------------
Total 4500 watt

It's a 50 gallon water heater.

What I haven't been able to figure out is if the GE50T6EA is a 4500 watt water heater or a 9000 watt water heater?

If it is a 4500 watt water heater (only one element works at a time or only uses a total of 4500 watts between two 4500 watt elements) then at 240 volts the breaker should be 25 amp dual pole using 10 gauge wire.

If it's considered to be a 9000 watt water heater then then breaker would need to be 50 amp using no. 8 gauge wire.

The Specs and Details from https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/GE50T6EA

Shows

Heating - Electric - Heater Watts 4500
Voltage (MAX) 240.0 V

So can I assume it's a 4500 watt 240 VAC water heater and requires a 25 amp dual pole breaker using no. 10 wire?
 
Only one element is on at a time. Never two. I think the minimum here is 30 amp.
 
The installation manual shows 25 amp for 4500 watts which I figured out is the total watts.

In another forum someone stated how they believe the two heating elements operate.

cold water enters at the bottom and hot exits at the top. When the tank is first used and is full of cold water, the top heats first until it is proper temp because one pulls from the top. Then the top turns off and the bottom turns on to finish heating the rest of the tank, which is the colder water below the top. In use the opposite happens. The top is hot and at the proper temperature. As water is used, the cold water replaces the hot water at the bottom of the tank. The bottom element turns on to heat the bottom water which is colder. If enough hot water is used to where the top of the tank gets cold, then the roles reverse, the top comes on and shuts the bottom off until the top is hot again, and then when the top turns off the bottom turns back on and finishes the heating. That way the users get hot water sooner and longer. Whirlpool has a good article here: http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.com...ric-operation/
__________________
 
Yes, that is the correct way an electric water heater works. The electrical is a math problem amps, Watts, only a percentage of total...You can see that I’m not an electrician. Call a electrician that does new construction and ask. That would be easy. I still think that 30 number is right though.
 
30 works for 208 VAC for 240 VAC chart from GE installation manual shows 25 amps and 10 ga wire

wiring diagram
 

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I think where i'm at a 25 or 30 will work ok.

4500/240 = 18.75 amps, will work on a 20 amp OCPD but,
18.75*125% = 23.4 amps, requires a 25 or 30 amp circuit.
 
If you divide by 200 the math is lots easier, and you have a built in 20% safety factor. 4500/200 is 22.5. Easy to do in your head. then go up to the next breaker size.

And a disconnect at the device, or locking breaker assembly are now required.
 
I seriously don’t understand why a shut off switch is not required at the HWH. How simple would that be?
 
You have to install a means of shutting off the power, which if it isn’t visible from the device, can be positively locked.
 
Positively locked means you can put that little clip on the breaker which could be across the house. I mean, a cut off at the HWH to make servicing a whole lot easier and safer. Like at the AC unit.
 

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