Over my head. Dishwasher drain pipe under sink came right off and not sure what to do next

Dishwasher was busted and I fixed it (big deal for me lol) but after I installed it again the drain pipe fell off. I actually put it back myself using JB Weld following the recommendation of a welder. It just fell right off today after about a week. I think I didn't mix the JB Weld properly.

What do I do now? Here are the options I can think of:
1. Clean the pipes with torch and wire brushes and apply JB Weld again, this time hopefully mixing better and it working.
2. Clean the pipes with torch and wire brushes and this time solder the thing (never did that before. Seems like a hard place to solder).
3. Buy a new PVC pipe that comes with a drain pipe attached, and replace the old copper part (is this possible?). Or track down a copper one. Can I put a PVC dishwasher tailpipe mixed in with the copper parts?
4. Hire someone.

Any guidance on where to go from here would be most appreciated!

Can you get the P-trap off? If yes, buy a metal branch tail piece with union on top and cut the correct amount of the tailpiece from the tee off and fit the new branch tail piece in, replace the P-trap, done.

RenewDave said:

Can you get the P-trap off? If yes, buy a metal branch tail piece with union on top and cut the correct amount of the tailpiece from the tee off and fit the new branch tail piece in, replace the P-trap, done.

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Ok I just want to make sure things are clear. I take a hacksaw to the pipe and cut out enough below the T to make a new connection. I buy a new tail piece that has threads at the TOP (that is a common thing?). I disconnect the P trap and get rid of the old pipe with the hole in it. I slide my NEW tail piece OVER the old pipe coming out of the T and INTO the P trap. The new tail piece should have threads at the top to connect to the old pipe at the top, and the old P trap should have threads to connect at the bottom. Is that correct?

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-284...ce&qid=1561213079&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2&th=1
That’s 1 1/4 but you get the point. It’s a slip joint connection like the rest of your drains.

RenewDave said:

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-2841-22-Gauge-Tailpiece-Disposal/dp/B00HYWBBKK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=Union+branch+tailpiece&qid=1561213079&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2&th=1
That’s 1 1/4 but you get the point. It’s a slip joint connection like the rest of your drains.

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Thanks again Dave. I can never tell based on the pictures, but there must be threads at the top yes?

Also, can I get a PVC/plastic tailpiece if I can't find another brass one?

Yes, and a nut and washer. That makes the union. That make it in plastic, I like to keep the materials the same when I can. You can reuse the nut and washer from the P-trap when you disconnect it. It’s a easy change, you can do it.

The top of that tail piece is a male thread. No slip nut.
Looks like you need this (not so common) version.
https://www.amazon.com/Dearborn-817TB-1-Branch-Tailpiece-Threaded/dp/B00IG3X9LA
But I would remove the trap, unscrew the tailpiece, Clean/flux and solder, and replace.

Diehard said:

The top of that tail piece is a male thread. No slip nut.
Looks like you need this (not so common) version.
https://www.amazon.com/Dearborn-817TB-1-Branch-Tailpiece-Threaded/dp/B00IG3X9LA
But I would remove the trap, unscrew the tailpiece, Clean/flux and solder, and replace.

Click to expand...

Why can't I solder it while it is on there? Simply because that would be more challenging?

Do you think he can disconnect that threaded tailpiece without making everything else leak? Cut that thing off and use a slip joint and be done. I can almost guarantee that when you back up that tee with a pipe wrench, the whole assembly breaks down. Then he spends a whole weekend changing everything to plastic. One hour with a slip joint branch tailpiece. DONE!

Behacad said:

Why can't I solder it while it is on there? Simply because that would be more challenging?

Click to expand...

You can. I just figured it would be easier for you.
You can certainly try it and if you don't like, it simply switch to RenewDave's suggestion.

RenewDave said:

Do you think he can disconnect that threaded tailpiece without making everything else leak? Cut that thing off and use a slip joint and be done. I can almost guarantee that when you back up that tee with a pipe wrench, the whole assembly breaks down. Then he spends a whole weekend changing everything to plastic. One hour with a slip joint branch tailpiece. DONE!

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Sorry! You're absolutely correct!
I was in a bit of a hurry earlier and wasn't totally with you. I agree, that's probably the easiest way to do it.

Diehard said:

You can. I just figured it would be easier for you.
You can certainly try it and if you don't like, it simply switch to RenewDave's suggestion.

Sorry! You're absolutely correct!
I was in a bit of a hurry earlier and wasn't totally with you. I agree, that's probably the easiest way to do it.

Click to expand...

RenewDave said:

Do you think he can disconnect that threaded tailpiece without making everything else leak? Cut that thing off and use a slip joint and be done. I can almost guarantee that when you back up that tee with a pipe wrench, the whole assembly breaks down. Then he spends a whole weekend changing everything to plastic. One hour with a slip joint branch tailpiece. DONE!

Click to expand...

UPDATE: So the J piece part of the P trap actually crumbled, so I need to replace that first since that seems like a higher priority lol. I couldn't find a metal J piece with threads on each side, but I managed to find a plastic piece to replace it. The problem is due to the existing setup, I had to install the plastic J piece using metal lugs from the existing copper tubing. I've heard that using metal lugs on plastic threads is a bad idea. What do you think? Is this an acceptable long term solution

Note: I should screw the lugs in further and use teflon tape. I didn't want to screw it in fully yet.