clearance to sprinkler shut off valves

I have two lever shut off valves as part of a manifold to the sprinkler system. One controls a 1" pvc line to the back of the house where there is a faucet and sprinkler valves. I have just installed a water hammer arrestor there.

The other shut off feeds the front sprinkler valves which are about 3 or 4 feet from it. In addition there is a main house shut off in the same manifold. It is unimpeded and has lots of clearance around it.

I want to put a water hammer arrestor facing down in a 4 way tee. It will sit between the sprinkler shut offs and leave about 2" between it and the shut off levers. It will not interfere with the movement. This is the optimal position because it will address any hammer that remains in the 100' long run to the back, and also the front sprinkler. Any other way of doing it would leave the water hammer arrestor in a position if someone snagged it with a hose, hit it or kicked it they could break it.

Are there any codes one can think of for secondary non essential shutoffs that require a certain amount of clearance this install would violate?

Arrestor just installed in back of house:

California , uniform plumbing code

according to the code, the arrestor on your hose bib is incorrectly installed

it should have been installed up where the valve is.

frodo said:

View attachment 21129

California , uniform plumbing code

according to the code, the arrestor on your hose bib is incorrectly installed

it should have been installed up where the valve is.

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it's purpose in this application is for the sprinklers not the bibb. Sioux Chief says as close to the sprinkler line as possible, preferably within 6' but that line is buried 12" - 18" deep so it is installed where it emerges from the ground and transisitions from 1" to 3/4". The sprinkler line is the one the arrestor is for because the valves cycle quickly. The faucet turns off slowly and never hammers. It doesn't need an arrestor. I can't break into the PVC line without major changes or running the risk of future breakage if a hose drags across the arrestor.

The garden bibb is 39" above the ground. If it was put where you have it, it would be 10" above the ground. Also the code says "as close as possible to the quick-acting valves." The quick-acting valves are the sprinkler solenoids, and this is as close as I could install the water hammer arrestor to them. I don't think a garden supply bibb 10" from the ground would be acceptable either and the further away from the junction of the 1" and 3/4 lines the less effective the arrestor will be. The optimal solution is to someday dig down to the PVC line and widen the area above grade to add a tee for the water arrestor but that is another project another day.

If you see a place the water arrestor will go on the sprinkler line without having to completely redesign the shut off please suggest it. The PVC fittings are glued.

SGkent said:

The bibb is 39" above the ground. If it was put where you have it, it would be 10" above the ground. Also the code says "as close as possible to the quick-acting valves." The quick-acting valves are the sprinkler solenoids, and this is as close as I could install the water hammer arrestor to them.

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bullshit... look again

it was raised up to the height it was

to clear the valve handles
break the little ''tit'' or ''stop'' off of the handle with a pair of plyers
the valve handle can be oriented in a different direction. missing the arrestor

Well - I considered putting it at the top but the manufacture says keep it as close to the affected line as possible, preferably on a tee. The hammer runs under ground (the gray line) up thru the sprinkler 3/4 line, into the ball valve/drain then back down into the 1" to the front into the house. By putting it at the top of the garden bibb it adds a lot of water mass that has to be moved in that garden bibb side line for the water hammer arrestor to work properly on the 3/4 and 1" lines. Do you see a way to put that arrestor on those lines without digging up the pvc lines? I did not. If I could I would have added a tee to the 3/4 PVC on the right and put the arrestor there. By moving it to the top I would be moving it further from the quick-acting valves too which would violate the code, yes? No?

The project is now set aside until there is a time to work on this in a way that allows me to tee the arrestor into the 3/4 line and put the bibb back on its own dedicated tee like I originally wanted to but did not have the time or health with the 105+ Temps this week. Thank you for your suggestions. Everything is in a box labeled "when I have time." The back will look something like this when done. The garden bibb will go back to as it was and the arrestor will be put on a tee, perhaps encased in a capped PVC tube to keep dirt and moisture away and buried. The front I don't know, I may redesign the whole manifold.

My opinion is the water hammer arrestor is not needed on the sprinkler line
but it is your house and you be you

were is the back flow device separating the domestic water from the sprinkler water??????

Geofd said:

were is the back flow device separating the domestic water from the sprinkler water??????

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I think this was covered back here...

https://www.plumbingforums.com/threads/almost-out-of-bullets-on-water-hammer.14934/

Thank you. The project is on hold until I can dedicate some real time and energy to it. This problem is a lot more complicated than any of y'all have yet to acknowledge. When is the last time you had an AC system and a sprinkler system side by side each make the same frequency, and overtones with the only difference being the length of the event? The sprinklers cycling sometimes make a mild hammer and 3 - 5 second moan that needs to be addressed. The AC makes the same sound but 15 - 20 seconds at random times only at night, waking everyone up. The AC pad and valves are only 2' apart. When the out of bullets thread began we did not know it was the different causes. Only by the grace of God we got out to that corner of the house during the long one Sunday night before it stopped. As to the question asked re this thread, I will put both water Sioux Chief "B" hammer arrestors into the 2 PVC supply lines near the sprinkler valve sets with tees when I can dig the lines up. Those moans and hammers are mild and there is no rush. They will be teed in and an empty piece of PCV pipe and cap will be put over them to keep the dirt out. Again, thank you for your time. I consider the question posed in this thread closed.

what is the model number of your PRV?

what is the model number of your PRV?

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The tag is too deteriorated to read in the model area but the body reads "Wilkins 70." From the tag and body, 1 inch, 25 -75 PSI out, max temp 180 F, 300 max inlet. Published specs for the model 70 match but show a max temp 140 F. Probably installed about 1992 or so. I bought as many of the rebuild kits as I could find about 1995 and stashed them so the innards are new. Main line in is 1 1/4" and it reduces to 1" going into the house.