Leak in submersible pump line just below we’ll head cap

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butch

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Hi. Thanks for any advice upfront here. (I have not donated but I certainly will once I get past this hopefully fairly inexpensive fix.) Serious leak must be right below my well head cap...I can hear it gushing. Please see attached photo for this post...I’m not a plumber so I do not know all the terminology. I did replace this pump myself about two/ three years ago plumber it, wired it, everything. Has been fine till now. Pump still strong, will hold the pressure at 10 psi roughly, but I am only running pump when I need the water now, to save the pump. My plan is to detach all top plumbing fixtures, loosen all four top bolts....only enough to pull cap. I plan to use my tractor front loader to raise the string...after first tying on a good safety catch cable of course. I just hope that the leak is not one from one that might indicate a plumbing connection problem right under the cap...one that might break all the way and make me drop the string before I can even tie it off good. Hopefully the leak is right under the cap and I won’t have to raise it too high to fix the leak. So this is my issue and my plan to fix it. I’m requesting any and all cautionary notes and/ or task advice . I will be forever grateful.

No photo attached because I can’t get the server to load it. Basically a typical submersible pump well head with the outlet line coming up from the pump...I think mine is about 230, maybe 260 or so deep...and the power cable will bread through its own hole. Has the four bolts also...I am told that I need to loosen those just a bit in order to pull the pipe string. I’m not sure about the four bolts. In any event, since I can hear the leak right underneath the wellhead cap, I am most concerned about the initial lift...to get it high enough to put a safety catch tie off on the pipe...don’t won’t to drop that sucker. Any pro tips greatly appreciated.

A
 
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Since you pulled to pump before, you should know if it is steel pipe or plastic? If it is galve pipe it will be heavy, and likely is broken at the top. If is falls it will take the wire with it. Make sure to keep the wire in a place with that in consideration. I have seen the wire take pipe wrenches, 2X4's, even try to take humans down with it.

I don't see a picture. The problem is that it is down a hole and you can't see what is broken until you pull it up. Just be careful. If it is not plastic you should go back with plastic. Less weight and won't rust out.
 
Valveman said:
Since you pulled to pump before, you should know if it is steel pipe or plastic? If it is galve pipe it will be heavy, and likely is broken at the top. If is falls it will take the wire with it. Make sure to keep the wire in a place with that in consideration. I have seen the wire take pipe wrenches, 2X4's, even try to take humans down with it.

I don't see a picture. The problem is that it is down a hole and you can't see what is broken until you pull it up. Just be careful. If it is not plastic you should go back with plastic. Less weight and won't rust out.
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Hi. Thank you! Pipe is plastic. I can’t remember how it’s attached up top at the wellhead. I guess with bands. Pic would not load...pic is just of wellhead top...I have not done anything yet.
Valveman said:
Since you pulled to pump before, you should know if it is steel pipe or plastic? If it is galve pipe it will be heavy, and likely is broken at the top. If is falls it will take the wire with it. Make sure to keep the wire in a place with that in consideration. I have seen the wire take pipe wrenches, 2X4's, even try to take humans down with it.

I don't see a picture. The problem is that it is down a hole and you can't see what is broken until you pull it up. Just be careful. If it is not plastic you should go back with plastic. Less weight and won't rust out.
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Thank you for replying. It’s plastic...I pulled it before with my tractor front loader. Went back in the hole with that sucker, my wife and I. I think it’s busted somewhere at top. Can’t remember how the plastic pipe ties in to the top pipe. Likely just a heavy band? I suspect that’s where it’s leaking since I can hear it very well and I have not pulled the top up yet. Pic won’t load right, but it only shows the top cap of the casing, with metal connector pipe coming out to the pvc joint. If you’re still checking in, please advise me on these couple of things...basically just to jog my old man memory. 1) Can I pull the pipe string up safely by simply wrapping a chain around the metal pipe coming out of the casing wellhead? (After I disconnected the pvc leads that go to the reservoir tank, of course.) 2) Do I loosen the four bolts on top of the casing cap in order to pull the pipe string out? Or will it just come on out once I disconnect the metal pipe from the pvc?
 
Just loosen the bolts on the well seal, DO NOT REMOVE THEM! The well seal will come up with the pipe and wire. Grab the metal tee and pull up. Is it so deep you need the tractor? Plastic pipe can usually be done by hand down to 100' or more.
 
Valveman said:
Just loosen the bolts on the well seal, DO NOT REMOVE THEM! The well seal will come up with the pipe and wire. Grab the metal tee and pull up. Is it so deep you need the tractor? Plastic pipe can usually be done by hand down to 100' or more.
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Hi. Very helpful...thanks!

My well is about 260 or so. Again, sounds like the leak is right under the seal cap..probably at top of plastic pipe. Hopefully I won’t have to pull it up very far to get to where I need to fix leak. I’ll let you know how it goes and thanks again.
 
butch said:
Hi. Very helpful...thanks!

My well is about 260 or so. Again, sounds like the leak is right under the seal cap..probably at top of plastic pipe. Hopefully I won’t have to pull it up very far to get to where I need to fix leak. I’ll let you know how it goes and thanks again.
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Pulled my casing cap off successfully... thank you, Valveman, for the cautionary note about the bolts up top. Piece of cake. Backed up the plastic pipeline and then rested cap on top of the casing with the wires still intact... carefully. All this after discovering that I had actually possessed enough forethought to put a detachable pvc fitting into the line to the red tank. Needed power to be able to spot the leak. Is not at top as I had thought...is about 80 feet down. Pretty heavy string. Out of light today...tomorrow I pull the string of pipe up to see what the deal is. I can’t imagine what might make that pipe breech like that where there is no joint. But I’ll see tomorrow. Any counsel on this is certainly much appreciated.
 
The “res” tank I meant to say, not red.
 
butch said:
Pulled my casing cap off successfully... thank you, Valveman, for the cautionary note about the bolts up top. Piece of cake. Backed up the plastic pipeline and then rested cap on top of the casing with the wires still intact... carefully. All this after discovering that I had actually possessed enough forethought to put a detachable pvc fitting into the line to the red tank. Needed power to be able to spot the leak. Is not at top as I had thought...is about 80 feet down. Pretty heavy string. Out of light today...tomorrow I pull the string of pipe up to see what the deal is. I can’t imagine what might make that pipe breech like that where there is no joint. But I’ll see tomorrow. Any counsel on this is certainly much appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
butch said:
The “res” tank I meant to say, not red.
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Assessing/repairing damaged black plastic coil pipe line: 160 psi, 1 in, black plastic coil pipe, length is approx. 260feet cap to pump. I have about 100 feet of it out on the ground. Thought leak was around 70/80 feet down but so far I see no obvious leak point so I have to assume now that a small hole might make more noise spewing against casing down the pipe than I would have thought. In any event, its enough to keep pressure from exceeding 10 psi with pump running. Coil pipe shows prior crimping degradation all along that area. Maybe that’s the problem, however does not seem bad enough to this rookie to cause leak that would make that much noise. The three submersible power cords within that general reach show exposed copper...not sure why. Maybe due to degradation due to improper installation. Power line damage as well as coil pipe damage may both be due to installation damage in that reach of pipe... does seem to correlate but not conclusive yet. Damage to either might be due to line snapping back and forth as pump comes on and off...there were no spacers on the line. Conclusion: right now I don’t know wether to go ahead and replace entire coil pipe. Or just replace about 50 feet or so...with bomb proof couplings at either tie- in point. Also need to know best repair items for the damaged pump wire . Right now am thinking stout waterproof elec tape plus liquid electric tape coating on top of that. Coil pipe in question was not replaced when new pump installed 3 years ago. No spacers installed before or after that new pump. So, replace entire coil pipe? Or just replace section in question ? Any advice much appreciated. Can’t post a picture. Sorry for the overlong synopsis here. Anybody? Thanks!
 
Put the pump in s bucket of water and pressure test the pipe. Or just get new pipe. I would also replace the wire as well. Use THHN/THWN double jacketed wire and tape it every 10-20' and you will be fine. Those spacers or cable guards are just extra stuff for the wire to wear on. To make the pump system last longer you need to eliminate or greatly reduce the number of on/off cycles.
 
OK, Thanks very much, Valveman. I started a new thread yesterday evening with my latest issue in this ongoing well pump nightmare...pump coming on but not pumping. You answered that...I will pick up from there.
 
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