Sink's P-Trap too long to remove...

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Vincent Ciccone

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Hi, my sink drains very slowly, so I wanted to remove the P-trap to unclog it but I was unable to remove the P-trap because the pipe is too long and it touches the cabinet's bottom.

60972640_663895607373278_306921674391945216_n.jpg


Am I missing something?
 
cut it in the middle and remove the piece get a new 1 1/4 by 1 1/2 (desanco) that's the thread(1 1/4) by glued or socket 1 1/2 fitting and some abs ,and a 1 1/2 abs coupling some pipe make a new shorter piece
 
Maybe I'm missing something.
Wasn't that trap assembly just dropped down about 6"? Why not just cut the chrome tail piece(that was too long to begin with) just above the trap, to allow its removal? Then just slide it back up the remaining tail piece when he's done.
 
Frodo, the picture you show doesn’t unscrew there! But in his situation, that’s exactly what I’d do.
 
Yeah, I’ve used that first picture. That’s one piece that the nut and washer thread on and you cut the tail to size. It doesn’t unscrew like a normal drain. Cheaper tho.
 
The supply lines look like they’re stretched too far and will give up catastrophically
 
Here is a closer picture of the top part from my 1st photo but with the p-trap screwed back in. I don't know either why there is a bunch of glue at the top. Should I remove the glue and unscrew the top part like Frodo suggested earlier? An option I was thinking of is to cut a hole in the cabinet's bottom; there is about 6'' between the cabinet's bottom and the floor.

61010412_437808037034200_5067484779855740928_n.jpg
 
Well personally, out of all the choices mentioned, cutting a hole in the cabinet's bottom, would be my last. The piping assembly was obviously improperly installed.

Removing the glue and unscrewing the top part wasn't exactly what Frodo suggested earlier.

I assume the glue was put there for the purpose of stopping a leak. So you now also have the decision as to whether you should replace that patched up leak.

I suspect you'll be getting other respondents opinions as to what your options are and what they would recommend. I have already offered mine, which would leave the assembly easily removable in the future, in case you find you have, or want, to replace that patched up connection.
 
This thread is crazy
their are several ways to accomplish what the op wants to do
cut 6'' off the existing pipe
add a new trap adapter and a 6'' extension


s_stuff.png

This would be the option i would use
also.
the picture you showed of the strainer, I would take that apart and clean the sillycone off of it and reassemble correctly
 
@Diehard If I cut the chrome pipe, how long of the chrome part needs to remain inside the abs part after reassembling. In other words, how short can I safely cut the chrome pipe?
 

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