Removing corroded/stuck hose bibb

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Torin

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Problem is that I've tried using just an adjustable wrench to twist it off but it won't budge. I know that using a pipe wrench is advised but because of the tee pipe I'm not sure where I would even benefit from using a pipe wrench? I feel like the hoss bibb is so old and the elements have gotten to it so much so that it's difficult to take it off with just the wrench and elbow grease without accidentally breaking something else. Any advice?

Photos: http://imgur.com/a/vhVsVZG
 
Another reason why I thought of replacing the entire bib is that the hose won't screw into the current bib. It's the right size just too much mineral build up. Any remedy for that?
 
Another reason why I thought of replacing the entire bib is that the hose won't screw into the current bib. It's the right size just too much mineral build up. Any remedy for that?
That connection for the hose is a screw on backflow preventer. In theory that is capable of unscrewing from the hose bib. Or you could wire brush it first to try to get a hose connected.
Then do what @frodo suggested.
In the long run you'd be better off replacing the entire hose bibb, if you are capable of soldering, etc.
 
Another reason why I thought of replacing the entire bib is that the hose won't screw into the current bib. It's the right size just too much mineral build up. Any remedy for that?


Put a wire brush in your drill and clean the threads
 
Don't tell anyone but if you make a hacksaw cut across the center of where that screw was broken off , you can use a screwdriver to remove what's left of that screw.
 
Diehard, I think you’re wrong on that. The actual screw is a hardened #6, which breaks off below the surface, when you torque it down enough that the hardened pointed tip is actually embedded in the brass of the hose bib. The guy who engineered it did a really good job, of making it a permanent installation.
 
Diehard, I think you’re wrong on that. The actual screw is a hardened #6, which breaks off below the surface, when you torque it down enough that the hardened pointed tip is actually embedded in the brass of the hose bib. The guy who engineered it did a really good job, of making it a permanent installation.
Yeah...I have no experience with it, only saw it done on YouTube. Probably different between manufacturers.

Edit: I'll look for that video.
 
I guess there are different ways of removing it. But as you say if it's a hardened set screw drilling or cutting into it would be a chore.
I suppose cutting around it and peeling it back should work if you're careful.


 
I looked at the first video
this is a screen shot from the beginning of the video before he cuts it with a saw zall
as you can see, the video is fake, the stud he is cutting is a screw with a slot for a screw driver

go ahead,,,take your own screen shot

vb__fake_.png
 
You have to listen to what he is saying.
He was clearly pointing out the presence of that screw.
EDIT: Didn't need a screen shot to clearly see the presence of that screw. Maybe on a cell phone.??

The screen shot to take would have been after he obliterated that screw head and went below the surface of the brass to the new slot made my the saw.

If you don't like that method you could use one of the methods shown in the next videos.

The second one should work regardless of how hard that screw may be.

The third video, well it's pretty darn hard drilling out hardened steel, which it probably wasn't.
 
Some time ago, I bought a set of "screw removers" that were basically hollow drills - tiny hole saws. I'll try to find a reference and post it. But they worked by cutting a hole around the screw, and the screw would just fall out. Of course, the thing the screw was in was trashed, but that would be a good solution for this problem.
 
Some time ago, I bought a set of "screw removers" that were basically hollow drills - tiny hole saws. I'll try to find a reference and post it. But they worked by cutting a hole around the screw, and the screw would just fall out. Of course, the thing the screw was in was trashed, but that would be a good solution for this problem.
Sounds like another good method.
I assume those special drill bits aren't cheap.
 
They couldn't have been too expensive, because I'm pretty cheap. I bought them about 20 years ago and they were (apparently) easy to find then, but I tried to find them this morning to get a name or something, but no luck so far. They were for wood, I'm sure, and I doubt they'd be any good for steel, but maybe brass would be OK.
 

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