Coiled tubing for water line?

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livemusic

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Location
Louisiana, USA
I think I have a leak between the meter and my house and the ground is so saturated with water from record rainfall over the winter, plus, if I have a leak, the leaking water... and it's dang hard to dig to find the leak. I dig a hole and it fills in quick with water. Leak could be anywhere within about 250 feet of line buried underground. I assume it is all PVC. The house is 60 yrs old and I figure all of the old pipe has been replaced with PVC. I did find a 'corner' where the main line makes an L from the main line from the road to make the 90 degree jag to my house. It looks bigger than 3/4 inch schedule 40. Anyway... I need water at my house! I was thinking of just installing a line from the meter at the road all the way to that corner, above ground, and tie it in. If the meter shows water flow with everything at the house OFF, then the leak is between that spot and the meter. If not, the leak is between that spot and the house.

We are beyond freezing temperature hazard now. What about just installing a water line above ground until the ground dries out? That might be weeks!

So, is this a decent idea and do it with what? Regular PVC joints or coiled tubing (a roll of plastic pipe). I was thinking coiled tubing would be easier, don't have to connect joints. I don't even know if they make water line that is coiled, I assume they do. What dollars up best and does coiled work ok?

EDIT: It's a lot of digging and my health isn't such I can dig real well without giving out. Finding labor here is tough! But calling a plumber can get uber expensive. Thought about renting a trencher but heck, it's SO wet right now! But I need water at my house.
 
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I do have a suggestion on a Mississippi redneck poor boy trencher [ MRPBT ]
I have done this MANY times because we have hard as rock red dirt

use a Tiller, to break up the ground, scoop the loose dirt out
make another pass

beats the hell out of digging hard dirt. I see you are next door in Louisianian
you only need to be about 12'' deep

WARNING WARNING NON PC COMMENT AHEAD..If offended easily, or are subject to melt down, do not
proceed

on labor. go to ho depot, rent a illegal alien, at the end of the day turn him into ICE
so you do not have to pay. LOL
just kidding
 
The ground is SO wet. Can someone advise? Install above-ground line until the ground dries? And if so, what type of line, PVC joints or a roll of pipe so you don't have to do so many connections? And then can a roll of pipe serve as final install, just drop it into a trench once it dries up?
 
How do I post questions about venting? Can I run a horizontal sanitary t? I'm putting a bathroom in the upstairs of my capecod. And does anyone see any code reds? Also where should I put cleanouts for the shower and toilet in this situation?
 

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How do I post questions about venting? Can I run a horizontal sanitary t? I'm putting a bathroom in the upstairs of my capecod. And does anyone see any code reds? Also where should I put cleanouts for the shower and toilet in this situation?

Uh, you need to post your own thread, hoss, my thread has nothing to do with what you're asking about.
 
I may be all wet but...
First off, your statements, "installing a line from the meter at the road all the way to that corner, above ground" and "If the meter shows water flow with everything at the house OFF, then the leak is between that spot and the meter. If not, the leak is between that spot and the house."
It sounds to me like you have your flow test conclusions backwards.
In other words, If there is flow at the meter with nothing being used in the house then the remaining buried line from the Elbow to the house would be leaking, wouldn't it?
And if no flow at meter, then the piping that was being by-passed was the culprit.

O.D. of 3/4 in. PVC Pipe = 1.050 in.
O.D. of 1 in. PVC Pipe = 1.315 in.

Is a "Drinking Water Safe Garden Hose - 3/4 x 100 ft" an option? Would of course require PVC to both male and female hose connection adapters.
 
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How do I post questions about venting? Can I run a horizontal sanitary t? I'm putting a bathroom in the upstairs of my capecod. And does anyone see any code reds? Also where should I put cleanouts for the shower and toilet in this situation?

dude,,,you can not hijack another guys thread
that is very very bad internet manors
I will be happy to help you if you start your own thread

click_that.png
 
The ground is SO wet. Can someone advise? Install above-ground line until the ground dries? And if so, what type of line, PVC joints or a roll of pipe so you don't have to do so many connections? And then can a roll of pipe serve as final install, just drop it into a trench once it dries up?

pvc is cheap. and will work.
if it is used as temporary you are good to go
 
I may be all wet but...
First off, your statements, "installing a line from the meter at the road all the way to that corner, above ground" and "If the meter shows water flow with everything at the house OFF, then the leak is between that spot and the meter. If not, the leak is between that spot and the house."
It sounds to me like you have your flow test conclusions backwards.

In other words, If there is flow at the meter with nothing being used in the house then the remaining buried line from the Elbow to the house would be leaking, wouldn't it?
And if no flow at meter, then the piping that was replaced by the house was the culprit.

O.D. of 3/4 in. PVC Pipe = 1.050 in.
O.D. of 1 in. PVC Pipe = 1.315 in.

Is a "Drinking Water Safe Garden Hose - 3/4 x 100 ft" an option? Would of course require PVC to both male and female hose connection adapters.

Yeah, I think I said it backwards.

My brother wondered about using garden hose. But a high-quality garden hose won't be cheap. And it's 200 ft from the meter to the corner I mentioned. So, would require two water hoses 100 ft length each.
 
Yeah, I think I said it backwards.

My brother wondered about using garden hose. But a high-quality garden hose won't be cheap. And it's 200 ft from the meter to the corner I mentioned. So, would require two water hoses 100 ft length each.
Yeah, as frodo said PVC would be a good option. Maybe a bit more labor.
 
I haven't found the leak yet due to I can't dig like I want to! But I wonder why it happened. How long does PVC glue last? I'm guessing this pipe has probably been in the ground 20 to 30 years. There has been nothing traumatic to cause a leak. No earthquakes, lol. No vehicles driving over the subject area.
 
Well when you do find the leak you'll have a better idea of what the cause may have been.
Contrary to the term "glue" used, it is a solvent weld, not a glue. As with all welding, it should be as strong as the parent material. Which over time can get brittle and will probably split well away from the welds as extrusion stress builds in a linear stress riser in the material leading to a lengthwise split.
I copied this from somewhere.:D
 
I think I have a leak between the meter and my house and the ground is so saturated with water from record rainfall over the winter, plus, if I have a leak, the leaking water... and it's dang hard to dig to find the leak. I dig a hole and it fills in quick with water. Leak could be anywhere within about 250 feet of line buried underground. I assume it is all PVC. The house is 60 yrs old and I figure all of the old pipe has been replaced with PVC. I did find a 'corner' where the main line makes an L from the main line from the road to make the 90 degree jag to my house. It looks bigger than 3/4 inch schedule 40. Anyway... I need water at my house! I was thinking of just installing a line from the meter at the road all the way to that corner, above ground, and tie it in. If the meter shows water flow with everything at the house OFF, then the leak is between that spot and the meter. If not, the leak is between that spot and the house.

We are beyond freezing temperature hazard now. What about just installing a water line above ground until the ground dries out? That might be weeks!

So, is this a decent idea and do it with what? Regular PVC joints or coiled tubing (a roll of plastic pipe). I was thinking coiled tubing would be easier, don't have to connect joints. I don't even know if they make water line that is coiled, I assume they do. What dollars up best and does coiled work ok?

EDIT: It's a lot of digging and my health isn't such I can dig real well without giving out. Finding labor here is tough! But calling a plumber can get uber expensive. Thought about renting a trencher but heck, it's SO wet right now! But I need water at my house.

See if anyone in your area does pipe bursting. They would dig a pit at either end of the line, and then push a cable up the existing line, from one pit to the next.

Once the cable is pushed through, the old line, they hook on a bursting head, and poly line, your “coiled tubing”. they then pull it back through the old line and burst it as they go.

Sounds complicated, but it saves all the trenching, expense and time. You can install a 500-ft run of new pipe by bursting in a day, and have very little effect on the overlying landscape.
 
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So, this is what I had in mind... looks like it is called poly pipe. But a friend said you have to have a special tool to crimp the special clamps. My need is a one-time need, if the tool is expensive, not good! I also don't see a price for the clamps. In reviews, people complain out it wanting to kink and not roll out easily, wants to stay coiled. So, wondering if it would really be easier than PVC joints, or actually harder to handle. And I assume it would function as well as PVC for my home's main water line. EDIT: The clamps are only $3 for 10-count and the tool is $10, not too bad.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advance...PS-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1100300/205903472
 
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Are you planning an running a temporary line? I would use the same pipe or tubing I planned on burying.
I replaced a 150' main to a rental house I had, and went to a supplier, of commercial tubing and water pipes. Sold me a coil of 3/4" (actual id 13/16") plastic tubing, a some massive bronze end fittings, and a coupler.
Digging the trench was the worst part. trented a trencher, but but roots were still a problem.
Next time, I rent a mini excavator or small backhoe. Might as well have a little fun doing it!
 
I haven't found the leak yet due to I can't dig like I want to! But I wonder why it happened. How long does PVC glue last? I'm guessing this pipe has probably been in the ground 20 to 30 years. There has been nothing traumatic to cause a leak. No earthquakes, lol. No vehicles driving over the subject area.

someone 'prolly installed the line with out using primer
it works, will hold pressure, but is prone to leak after awhile
 
FYI...
The the 1" Polyethylene you referenced has a Maximum Water Working Pressure Rating of 100 PSI. And a Max temp rating of 80 degrees F.(Only a concern if left exposed for a while.)

The 1" PVC pipe has a considerably higher water working pressure rating and a higher temperature rating.(Much better if you plan to use it to replace 200 feet of existing buried piping.)
If 10 foot lengths = about 40 joints to glue.
If 40 foot lengths = about 20 joints.

Is the idea to find the leak and fix it or to replace the entire 200 feet of existing piping? If, of course, the leak ends up in that first 200 feet.

Then we have...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-in-x-300-ft-White-PEX-Pipe-U880W300/202688024

EDIT: Can't leave PEX exposed to sun(UV) for longer than about 30 -60 days. They are rated on the markings found on the hose.
 
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