Dripping main shutoff valve

I recently noticed that my downstairs shower (that rarely gets used) only runs cold water. On trying to change out the cartridge, I realize that I have to turn off the main valve because there isn't a shut off valve closer to the shower. The main valve is in our utility room. As I turn it clockwise to shut it off, it begins to drip. It drips faster the more I close it. And when I return it to the original position, it slows down and stops. In this situation, does it sound like it will eventually seal shut if I turn it all the way clockwise, or does it sound like it could come off and create a situation like the "Help Lady" thread on the forum (flood)? Is changing this valve something I can do myself, or this a "definite call a plumber" situation. Is there another way to shut off the water coming into the house without major construction? I will add pictures as soon as I can. Thanks for your advice.

After doing a little more research, I attempted to tighten the packing nut. It wouldn't budge. With a container under the valve, I continued to turn it clockwise. It did eventually stop dripping and shut off completely. I'm still interested in stopping the leak, but it looks like I am able to stop the water to repair the shower in the meantime. Do I need to stop the water from outside the house in order to replace this valve?

you cant change that valve without shutting off the water at the street it looks like there is no other valve....the least evasive way would be to shut down the main drain that line loosen the water meter union on the house side and install a valve on the piece just above that....but if you haven't done something like this a plumber would be the beat awnser

That leaking stem packing is very common. Once you had shut the valve all the way, would typically stop the packing leak. But tightening it was the way to go.

Totally agree with Geofd regarding adding another valve while that one is still holding. Those older gate valves tend to not hold tight after a while. The new valve would be a ball valve and would be pretty straight forward for a plumber.

@Geofd...Did you notice the location?

Diehard said:

That leaking stem packing is very common. Once you had shut the valve all the way, would typically stop the packing leak. But tightening it was the way to go.

Totally agree with Geofd regarding adding another valve while that one is still holding. Those older gate valves tend to not hold tight after a while. The new valve would be a ball valve and would be pretty straight forward for a plumber.

@Geofd...Did you notice the location?

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yeh its before the meter the handle is facing the wall my first house had a gate valve that didn't hold so I loosened the union on the house side and soldered a valve above it

Sorry ...I was talking about the "Boston, MA" location.

Diehard said:

Sorry ...I was talking about the "Boston, MA" location.

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I just scrolled back.....that's great!!!!!!

Brianrzq1 said:

After doing a little more research, I attempted to tighten the packing nut. It wouldn't budge. With a container under the valve, I continued to turn it clockwise. It did eventually stop dripping and shut off completely. I'm still interested in stopping the leak, but it looks like I am able to stop the water to repair the shower in the meantime. Do I need to stop the water from outside the house in order to replace this valve?

Click to expand...

did you notice our locations??????????

Yes, we're all pretty close. Nice to meet you guys. Thanks for your advice. I will probably wait til spring to get that new valve. I'm currently trying to get the shower handle off so I can change the spindle. Looks like I need to invest in a pulling tool.

Brianrzq1 said:

Yes, we're all pretty close. Nice to meet you guys. Thanks for your advice. I will probably wait til spring to get that new valve. I'm currently trying to get the shower handle off so I can change the spindle. Looks like I need to invest in a pulling tool.

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put a pliers on the back side of the handle and give it a couple of good love taps....(what brand is the shower valve)

It’s a Symmons Temptrol Model A. I got a puller, but it won’t keep a grip on the handle. It just slides off. There is a silver cover right behind the handle making it tough to get the legs of the puller all the way in.

I know this is a nailbiter for some of you. I turned the water off so that I could turn the handle on full blast opening up a little more space behind it and giving me some more wiggle room. I got the handle off with the tip of the spindle permanently attached. After taking it apart and replacing the spindle (which was my original goal), everything seems to be working fine. I just need to get that piece of spindle out of the handle or buy a new handle to replace it. I will keep you all posted on the changing out the main valve if I ever get around to it. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

I hate to jump in here and cause stress and worry, but thats how I roll

Looking at your pictures, it LOOKS like the piping from the copper service line to the meter
is BLACK STEEL pipe. Am I correct in my assumption?

If this in fact the situation, Then I advise you to have the city, turn off your water.
At the same time. I would remove all the black pipe and valve.
I would then, install a threaded brass full port ball valve on the copper line
where the steel pipe connected.

Then, the city can turn your water on as you connect the rest of the piping

above the newly installed ball valve, install a 1/2'' outlet tee with a ball valve.
this will be the drain if needed in the feature

If thought out, the job can be accomplished using brass nipples with out having to solder any copper.

Brianrzq1 said:

It’s a Symmons Temptrol Model A. I got a puller, but it won’t keep a grip on the handle. It just slides off. There is a silver cover right behind the handle making it tough to get the legs of the puller all the way in.

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that's a the dome the handle is round with 3 points on it....its whie metal I sometimes fuse itself to the stem....shut the water off open the valve about half way when rock the handle back and forth with chanell locks the stem will break the handle will come off exposing the rest of the stemopen it a little more remove the brass cover take out the old stem......