Washing machine drain pipe overflows

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Jan 26, 2019
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I bought a house recently and since I moved in, I can't get the washing machine drain to stop overflowing. I even installed a "water flow restriction" (which is just a C-clamp on the drain hose. I know this is not ideal, and it was a temporary solution) First I completely tore out the old drain pipe, because it was WAY too short of a standpipe, for code. That didn't help. After the flow restriction it no longer overflowed, and I kinda left it at that. But now it's back to overflowing, almost every single drain cycle that the machine does. It's absolutely maddening. Best as I can tell, I need to relocate the drain higher up on my 3 inch pipe, because what I suspect is happening, is that it's entering the pipe at a 90 degree angle, and is not able to go anywhere past that quickly enough, so it backs up back into the washing machine drain pipe, and out the top. It's either that, or the P-trap cant' handle the amount of water flow. I'm unsure of how much flow my washing machine outputs.

It's weird, because my my old apartment, I never had any sort of issue like this with this same washing machine and I've never heard of this being a problem for anyone. Also weird is the my main 4 inch drain is located so high up on the wall, that I'm required to pump the washing machine to nearly the ceiling, especially if I'm going to have to relocate my drain higher on the 3 inch pipe.

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if its not overflowing when not in use remove the ptrap clean out plug and snake from there
That P-trap is one that I installed brand new less than 2 months ago.
Are you suggesting that the 3 inch pipe is sending waste into the P-trap and clogging it?
 
That P-trap is one that I installed brand new less than 2 months ago.
Are you suggesting that the 3 inch pipe is sending waste into the P-trap and clogging it?
there could be a random clog in the 2 inch.....you could remove the 3 inch plug there could be a partial clog in the 3 inch also try the 2 inch snake past the main drain entrance until your snake comes back clean...
 
when waste is coming down 3 inch it is probably clogging the inlet from washing machine. that's not the right fitting for application. it should be a wye fitting
 
when waste is coming down 3 inch it is probably clogging the inlet from washing machine. that's not the right fitting for application. it should be a wye fitting
I agree. Do you think a wye fitting would solve the issue, or should I cut out my washing machine drain and install it on the 3 inch pipe about a foot or two above where it is now? Which do you feel would be easiest? Mind you, I don't have a whole lot of experience fitting piping.

If I do go the route of moving the washing machine drain pipe higher, is my washing machine going to be able to handle it? It's probably going to have to pump 6-7 feet up.
 
I looked at the pic again...the 4 " is capped off....with out reworking the 3' you could remove the 3" cap and use a threaded adapter...that way its a larger opening and you are going straight into the main rather than draining into the back of the 3" fitting
 
I agree. Do you think a wye fitting would solve the issue, or should I cut out my washing machine drain and install it on the 3 inch pipe about a foot or two above where it is now? Which do you feel would be easiest? Mind you, I don't have a whole lot of experience fitting piping.

If I do go the route of moving the washing machine drain pipe higher, is my washing machine going to be able to handle it? It's probably going to have to pump 6-7 feet up.
geofd is correct.. you can remove cleanout plug and install male adapter with a 4x2 street y and a end clean out. cap old 2 inch and repipe new trap. I believe that would solve the problem.
 
geofd is correct.. you can remove cleanout plug and install male adapter with a 4x2 street y and a end clean out. cap old 2 inch and repipe new trap. I believe that would solve the problem.
Ah! I did not know i could add a section to a threaded cap end. This is fantastic!

This is what i'm looking for, correct?
What would an example of the male threaded fitting look like?
 
After removing mechanical ventilation, run a cycle on washer, if it doesn't overflow it's the ventilation that's faulty.
 
After removing mechanical ventilation, run a cycle on washer, if it doesn't overflow it's the ventilation that's faulty.
I'll try this idea. However, it was already overflowing before I installed this mechanical ventilation a couple months ago. I suspect it is not going to change anything :(
 
I'll try this idea. However, it was already overflowing before I installed this mechanical ventilation a couple months ago. I suspect it is not going to change anything :(
Yap, if it was overflowing already, then it's something clogging the drain [emoji53]
 
I ran an empty load today at max water setting. It drained all the way down to the last 5 gallons or so until it came out the pipe and then if I ran it again, it would overflow almost immediately. I believe that there is a plug or (hopefully not) collapsed pipe somewhere between my house and the sewer main. I'm going to call a plumber to come snake the 4 inch pipe and see what he finds. I'll also ask him how he feels about my drain configuration while he's here.

Thanks for the help, everyone!
 
If your going to go off the end of the existing clean out which is how I would do it, I wouldn't put a p-trap in any less than
3" and a stand pipe as high as you can get it. Around here you are not allowed to use a AAV on a washer drain.
 
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AAVs are not recommended for washer drains because the diaphragm can warp from the pressure created when the water drains. It takes an AAV that can handle high dfu, but even then, is not ideal.
 
What Zanne says is true, but in the case of a high washing machine flow and full drain line would Close the AAV. It's main purpose in that location is to protect the trap seal.
Don't think it's affecting the ability to flow properly.
Sounds like main line partially blocked, assuming the OP doesn't have a septic tank system.
 
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