Swapping well tank tee

My well system has several issues centering around the tank. It was wedged in the crawl space such that the bladder fill valve is inaccessible, the drain is an outside faucet halfway up the tank so it can't be fully emptied, there isn't a pressure relief valve and all of the associated hardware long predates "lead free". I'm planning to redo some of the supply piping in the house starting from the tank and I know the building inspector will raise more than an eyebrow at the current configuration. I've purchased a full set of new lead free components to replace and supplement the current ones. My plan is to dig out the sand beneath the tank and replace it with patio block at a height that will allow access to the bladder valve. While the tank is out, I will replace the components and neaten up the outgoing piping including the outside faucet.

My big concern is swapping the tank tee... The tank is in good condition from all outward appearances with a slight bit of rust on the base ring. Without access to the bladder valve, I have no way to evaluate the bladder condition. Assuming the tank to be in good condition inside and out, the last thing I want to do is damage it removing the old tee. I've been looking, unsuccessfully, for pictures of a tank underside to prepare myself; I assume there is an elbow attached to the underside of the tank for attaching the tee.

Does anyone have any advice on changing the tee without damaging the tank or is it just as straightforward as it sounds with a wrench on the elbow and another on the tee?

Regards,
George

yes most well tanks have a welded threaded 90 on the bottom. i would suggest if youre doing all this work replace the tank. just make sure you relieve all pressure in tank and shut breaker off to well before you start. you also may have to prime well line if you are replacing check valve.

Here is a way that cost less, takes up much less space, eliminates destructive cycling, making your pump last longer, and delivers strong constant pressure to the shower. Plus it doesn't need a tank tee.

Thanks for the info Mike. Given the outlay for parts so far, replacing the tank isn't in the budget unless it has failed internally. I will have to prime the line because I will be replacing the check valve. I assume that opening the the drain valve on the tee and running the pump until I no longer get air should suffice.

Valveman - I'll pass on the sales pitch...

Regards,
George