Klunkless Check Valve for sump pump

About three months ago I installed a Liberty backup pump and at the same time I changed the check valve on my main sump pump. It was a Zoeller green one and noisy. I switched to brand called Klunkless, it was quiet for about 3 months, now it is noisy. It gets a lot of use. After a rain my pump runs for 9 seconds and is off for 16 seconds, then on again. It gradually increases the intervals. Now it is running for 9 seconds every 2-3 minutes. It's like that all spring summer and fall. The sump pump drain riser goes up an 8 foot basement wall and to the outside.

Does anyone have suggestions for a good quiet check valve? Are the clear plastic Zoeller "Quiet Check Valve" any good?

Thanks

If you want quiet operation then you need check up closer to top of pipe before the first elbow. Otherwise you got 15 lbs of water dropping 8’ every 9 seconds. It’s the pipe bouncing on thin straps thumping the joists. So you need to stop it from being violent. Then the noise will chill for sure. Pump instructions say below 4’ above pump I think. But when I want the pump to shut up so that customer will leave me alone. I do it my way and it works. No extra cost.

Jamesplumbing06 said:

If you want quiet operation then you need check up closer to top of pipe before the first elbow. Otherwise you got 15 lbs of water dropping 8’ every 9 seconds. It’s the pipe bouncing on thin straps thumping the joists. So you need to stop it from being violent. Then the noise will chill for sure. Pump instructions say below 4’ above pump I think. But when I want the pump to shut up so that customer will leave me alone. I do it my way and it works. No extra cost.

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if i do this, doesn't all the water in the drain pipe below the check valve run back through the pump?

It will take hours for the vacuum created to break. There won’t be a way to introduce air into line above water so I don’t see it emptying out very fast if at all. Finger over straw at McDonald’s kinda of effect. So if pump is dry for a few days then it might. But 2” pvc at 8’ is barely I dunno 1.5 gallon. Shouldn’t trip the switch and create revolving cycle. I don’t know your size basin and level on and off. Math gives me a head ache.

OK will try, thanks

Almost time to switch my drain over to the winter position. Valves allow me to divert it to my septic when the drain lines in my yard can freeze.

Smart but be careful. A good snowfall melting could fill your septic system.

I want to keep this on top of forum list so others can triple check me. Me doing this a handful of times doesn’t make a rule. I make sure everyone knows I have a warranty and will fix my mistakes. So I assume their lack of calling me means it works. And I go back to 1 of those on a constant basis. Apartment triplex. But if this poses a potential problem after 6-7 years then I will run back and fix. Just my experience working in small town with low income population.

We drill holes to avoid air lock. I believe a lot of pump manufactures suggest this.

Yeah I just assumed there is a weep hole on riser about 6” above pump connection. On grinder pumps. Does a sump pump get a week hole too? I don’t mess with sumps a lot

They recommend them. I can tell you not all get them.

Ah gotcha.

Looking at that Klunkless Sump Pump Check Valve, I see it has a built-in air chamber. Sounds like it's a poor design if it doesn't work any longer.
Does that air chamber part unscrew from the check valve body? If so, I would imagine that would be how you could refill it with air. I'm assuming it doesn't have any type of water to air separation, which I would think not since it only lasted about 3 months.


As far as Zoeller's check valve...



Some sump pumps incorporate a weep/vent hole within the pump.

You got to be kidding. All I needed to do was drill a hole? I really went to trouble of putting check higher. I fix them right as I go back. Dang it!!

Jamesplumbing06 said:

You got to be kidding. All I needed to do was drill a hole? I really went to trouble of putting check higher. I fix them right as I go back. Dang it!!

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??????????
The weep hole is to prevent the pump from trying to pump air, which it can't do very well. It doesn't help the check valve problem.

Actually, I think that was a good idea to move the check valve to reduce the water hammer or clunk. And, of course, within a distance that would not cause the pump to restart.

Looking at that Zoeller video on that silent check valve, it sounds pretty good. I suspect it has some form of a small hydraulic cylinder or equivalent to prevent flapper from closing too fast. I know on the real big stuff, they had external devices to control closure speed.

O just adding the weep hole not to be helping but just in general because they forget. I see ya now.

Jamesplumbing06 said:

Yeah I just assumed there is a weep hole on riser about 6” above pump connection. On grinder pumps. Does a sump pump get a week hole too? I don’t mess with sumps a lot

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THEY SHOULD, YES

Hydromatic sumps pumps don't take a weep hole. Not sure if they are built in some how or not. I always use Hydromatic or Zoeller.

TomFOhio said:

Hydromatic sumps pumps don't take a weep hole. Not sure if they are built in some how or not. I always use Hydromatic or Zoeller.

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You drill a hole in pipe about the size of a pilot bit.

I never have on those pumps. Only if I installed something else would I check in booklet to see if it was needed. Put in
quite a few pumps with no problems not having weep hole. I knocked on wood because there is that first time.

Many sump pumps, but not all, include a weep/vent hole in their pump casing, located above the impeller. It appears that both Zoeller and Hydromatic sump pumps include vent holes in their casings.