When to change hoses...

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Get them back! They may not show up, however.
Tell them your wife(husband) was ripping mad and was threatening to call someone about it but that you assured her(him) that they would come back and make it right.
You can play the good guy.;)
 
I'd have no problem calling the original guy back, showing his the issues, and asking him..."Would you install this like you did in your own house?"
 
Thanks guys for your help.
I did call and speak with someone from their company yesterday. They were willing to send the same
guy back to fix the problem. We didn't set up a time however. I told them when I had free time.

In the meantime I decided to bite the bullet and see if I could do it.
Last night I glued two pieces of wood under the counter, so the installation brackets could attach to them
when the machine was pushed all the way in.

Today, I pulled out the machine and saw what the problem was. The guy did not pull the hoses through
the cabinet hole to the side of the machine. He left all the hoses/cable tangled up at the back of the machine!
So they were stopping the machine from being pushed all the way in.

I'm working on it now, but could use some help if possible.
I have pulled most of the slack through the hole, as much as I can.
We are talking several feet of drainage hose and hot water hose.

Despite pulling that through the wall, I still can't push the machine to the back.
The hose is still stopping it.
Is there a secret to doing this?
 
I'm not a plumber, but by the time I get through with this, I might just be a candidate for one. :(

Besides all the hoses bunching up at the back I think I have found another problem.
Because even when I fish the hoses through, there is resistance.

I believe that the hot water line wasn't attached properly.
I believe when the machine is pushed all the way back, the angle of the hot water line, with its kink,
is preventing the machine from going all the way back.

Am attaching photos.
It looks like I might have to get out my 'plumbing' wrench. :(

Behind dw:
IMG-20181011-165326.jpg


Next to dw:
IMG-20181011-165312.jpg


Hot water connection:
IMG-20181011-175413.jpg


IMG-20181011-175424.jpg
 
I have taken off that gold 90 deg. fitting.
When it is tightened all the way it finds itself in the position as shown in the photos above.
I believe it needs to be pointing in the other direction.

The only way I can see doing it, is to go to the hardware store and buy a washer
to put on top of the existing washer (or get a deeper one) so that when I tighten the piece
it will face in the right direction.

Am I thinking clearly? Or am I totally off?
 
Just spin it. Turn water off. The piece looks like a garden hose adapter on the big side. And 3/8 on little side. It will spin like a clock hand with the big nut being the “face”. So now loosen that big nut a little and spin the tube counterclockwise. Then retighten nut. Hardware store will have a straight version of that. Take that fitting with you and tell them you want it to be straight. That’s if you can’t reposition it
Good luck inviting a clearly non professional handy guy. We are not all like that and on behalf of us all .(I hope) I would redo it for lunch if I were in the right location. But every new machine DESERVES new hoses going to a functioning , accessible isolation valve. Now if you just spent the $50 on new hoses and they only a year or so old with no corrosion. But then that’s on you. A good plumber would have those in hand to lay down. Not as an upsale. Mainly as a insurance thing. So that’s my 4 cents


Don’t let the hoses get kinked as you bush back. Every push in you should reach around inside cabinet and tug on the hoses. To pull out slack. But not to bind up. So position the hoses behind so they feed as a loop. My holes are low to take stress off lines. So they can easily rest in place. You can double check by peeking under machine. Then spin the rear adjustment leg while pulling the top of machine out pivoting. Don’t go tight in the rear. When you push top back pivoting. Adjust the front legs to be snug. Then rest the dishwasher door in your lap to fully face all the stripping. Twist and tug on the tub frame till everything is hidden. May have to use a dull flat blade driver. To further negotiating to get it hidden. That machine has buttons around inside tub. 2 on both vertical sides. Pop them off and you should have a clear path to insert a long screw. Use a 2” screw. Just touch each side with screw heads then check door function. If it closes easy and feels secure. Replace buttons and hook up plumbing. Keep toe cover off so you can inspect first cycle. Then your gold.
 
Thanks James.
This is God damn frustrating! :(

Swiveled the 90 deg piece. Straightened the hoses.
The machine still won't get past the rubber!

The guy in the dishwasher section of Home Depot told me half hour ago that the black rubber
is not used to insulate the machine door. It's there just to give a snug fit in the hole it's going into.

So I have a feeling the only way I'm going to be able to hide the black rubber is to cut it off.

I tried shoving it inside. It just does NOT fit!

Arghhhhh!!!!!

p.s. My old machine (which I now miss) did not have rubber on the sides like all the new machines now have.
 
Yeah it’s just stripping to fit tighter and reduce noise coming from that area. Cut it or completely remove it.
 
That insulation is suppose to be there. Can you guide the black insulation in as you push the machine back. That is the
worst install on a dishwasher that I have seen in a long time. Why can't Home Depot send you a different contractor
since one you had looks like he never put a dishwasher in?????
 
That insulation is suppose to be there. Can you guide the black insulation in as you push the machine back. That is the
worst install on a dishwasher that I have seen in a long time. Why can't Home Depot send you a different contractor
since one you had looks like he never put a dishwasher in?????

Thanks Tom. I'll fill you guys in a bit more.
As I mentioned earlier a H.D. installer guy called last week and when he learned I had an old machine he said I'd need a plumber to come to bring the connections up to date before he could install the machine. So the guy who came was not with H.D.

I have since learned that a coupler was all that was needed to bring the connections up to date!

Anyway I called H.D. and wanted to know what would happen to the $150 (installation fee) that I had paid if I used a plumber now.
They said don't worry, we'll refund you the amount.

A few days before the plumber came the same H.D. installer guy called back (left message) and now wanted to set up a time to install! Go figure. I didn't return the call.

I think if I ever come back to this earth in an afterlife I will either be a plumber or a dishwasher installation guy. :)

I have made good progress today.
I decided to become imaginative and used duct tape to hold the rubber back on the right side. Doing that I was able to push in the dishwasher to the correct position.

Photos to follow...
 
Current state of the machine... left side, can close cupboard door now properly!
IMG-20181013-195454.jpg
[/IMG]

Right side:
IMG-20181013-195605.jpg
[/IMG]

Look Ma, no rubber!
IMG-20181013-195613.jpg


Kick plate needs to be re-installed now.
 
Now I have a question about the hoses on the left side, in the cupboard.
Remember I had pulled the hoses from behind the machine into the cupboard as they were tangled up behind the machine.

There is a Lazy Susan that goes in this cupboard, which I have taken out while working on the hoses. I tested it and quickly discovered that the Lazy Susan would be scraping the drainage hose if I didn't do something with the hoses.

Here's a photo of what I have come up with so far.
I need to get your advice on how to proceed.
Will this suffice or should I cut the grey drainage hose so it doesn't need to make an upwards hoop, and then couple it with the old hose (black) in the corner?

IMG-20181013-211151.jpg
 
Dont forget to high loop the dishwasher drain hose as high as possible to prevent backflow and smells.
 
Dont forget to high loop the dishwasher drain hose as high as possible to prevent backflow and smells.

Well that's basically my question from above.
I have made a high loop as you can see in the photo.
I did it to move the drain hose away from the Lazy Susan, not to prevent backflow or smells.
Are you saying that it should be even higher?

(If you were referring to the drain hose near the sink, it already has a high loop)
 
Your modern dishwasher has the loop and backflow in place. But yeah just secure the hose looping high and out of way for lazy Suzan. Most manufactures have omitted the high loop in instruction since early 2000. Some still have it in pages. But all machines must have the high loop and backflow in place to be used in the USA.
 
By the way. Looks like a pro. That rubber never fits box box store prefab cabinets. Good job. Get yourself a cookie.
 
Thanks James! This has been quite the roller coaster ride. Hopefully the end is near. :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top