Leak around sink drain basket

Twice now, I have developed a leak around the replaced drain basket in my s/s kitchen sink. I install it as I have seen on a youtube video and use plumbers putty as shown there. All is well for a while, however after a while the seal starts to leak. I suspect that I may be over-tightening the lock nut and squeezing out too much of the putty. Could this be my problem? What is a guideline for the proper of tightening of this nut?

I use silicone over putty, and if it is recessed where the strainer goes. Need to add extra due to the recess. Also, need to make sure it is very clean. And make sure you use the rubber seal on the bottom between the nut and the sink.

Show a picture underneath of the basket strainer that you are using.

justin_dewan90 said:

I use silicone over putty, and if it is recessed where the strainer goes. Need to add extra due to the recess. Also, need to make sure it is very clean. And make sure you use the rubber seal on the bottom between the nut and the sink.

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Justin, I did consider using silicone instead of putty. I'll try that for my next attempt. And I am using the rubber seal/washer between the nut and the sink.

Get one of the drain baskets with the three screws instead of the giant nut. Those things are junk.

I never use silicone. It is a real pain to deal with the next time you have to work on it.

I sometimes do my own plumbing and sometimes sub it out on my rental properties. I forbid my plumber from using silicone as putty. It is a mess, and, as fish said, it is a PITA the next time you have to work on that strainer.

FishScreener said:

I never use silicone. It is a real pain to deal with the next time you have to work on it.

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stick with the single nut! 3 screws to tighten it down just gives you that much more room for error.
Make sure you’re not using so much putty that it’s not squeezing out between the rubber gasket and the SS sink. If that’s the case too much putty or over tightening. Clean the rubber gasket and try again. You only need an 1/8” bead of putty around the basket.

Silicon would be a pain for future work.

Always think forward about maintenance when plumbing it will save you later

Yeah, but putty gets brittle faster than silicone. Have had to reseal alot of strainers or tub drains because people used putty. And it doesn't last near as long. I have never had an issue when it comes to silicone. But to each there own.

I guess that's why Baskin Robbins makes 31 flavors. Like anticlimatic, I far prefer the type with the three thumb bolts. The one I use has a cut into the handle of the thumb bolts so that you can use a screwdriver to turn them. That is far easier, in my opinion, than trying to work a large pair of channel locks in cramped quarters under a sink.

jeffmattero76 said:

I guess that's why Baskin Robbins makes 31 flavors. Like anticlimatic, I far prefer the type with the three thumb bolts. The one I use has a cut into the handle of the thumb bolts so that you can use a screwdriver to turn them. That is far easier, in my opinion, than trying to work a large pair of channel locks in cramped quarters under a sink.

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The biggest issue I have with the big nut baskets is how hard it is to grip the basket tight enough to torque it down. That spud tool I think it’s called never seems to fit right. If they simply engineered them so you could get two wrenches on it somehow it would be fine, but like a lot of plumbing parts engineering decisions I don’t know what they were thinking. OP: if you can grab the basket and twist it, it’s not tight enough and it’s going to leak.

In my opinion, if you put this type of basket strainer in with the large cup you will not have any problems. Have been putting them in for many
years without any problems. When it tightens at the bottom it goes straight up and no chance of the gasket squeezing out. To
much puddy will not hurt a thing. If it comes out at least you know you have it under the basket. I say no to the silicone unless
you see a bad spot at the sink hole'

My vote is for putty. I squeeze it down a bit first, making sure that it will spread across the flange. I tighten rather tight, checking periodically to see if I can move the basket around (much like I do when setting a toilet). I have seen many baskets set with plumbers putty and still not leaking 50 years later.
The problem with silicone is that the surfaces must be clean and once the basket is installed, you cannot disturb that silicone for at least 24 hours, which is the time it takes to almost fully set, and once you use silicone, it will be difficult to remove the next time.
Some sink materials, such as stone, require the use of silicone. The oils in the putty will stain the stone.

I have never seen plumbers putty get brittle. Not sure it can. It is a combination of fine clay and mineral oil, and intended to stay flexible for ever.

I have seen the basket installed incorrectly all too frequently.

Roll the putty into a roll about the size of a pencil, put that around the bottom of the basket flange, then drop the basket into the sink.

From the bottom install the gasket, and then the outer shell. Tighten until the rubber starts to squeeze out. Dip your finger tip in a bit of mineral oil and rub off the putty that extruded from the top and rub a clean edge into it.

I see it very often, the putty is very flaky and crumbles when I pull the strainer, faucet or any other fixture or drain that it's on.

Most of you guys are like old women at a Bunco game...yadda...yadda...yadda! This is best, that is best...
I've been doing this for 40+ years and either way works. there are plus and minus arguments for both. With putty you can check for leaks and get out quicker, and 90% of the time it will stand up to what it is supposed to do, stop leaking water for a LONG time. I do prefer silicone if you can leave it for a while before using the sink, and for disposal collars because of the vibration factor. I have NEVER had a callback using silicone if left for at least 4 hours untouched.
Also...my 2 cents... I never use a drain basket with the large ring . Quality first (at least $20-$30) with either the 3 screws or the large cup.
Just saying