Soap stone utility sink replacement pipe & gasket

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peaches

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Where can I buy replacement flanged pipe and gaskets for my soap stone utility sink brass or bronze pipe at bottom of sink?

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I don't want "new" sinks!! I have 2 of these, one at my parents and one at my house. They work great, except for the
one in the photos. There is a gap in the funnel/flanged shape pipe (where it has corroded away) and it leaks!!
Why doesn't someone make or have NOS (new old stock) replacements for the pipe and gasket?? There seems to be
enough demand with people that have these soap stone sinks and would like to restore and keep using them.
 
Still looking for replacement parts for the pipe and gasket!!??
 
Didn't see a name on the sink? Only a number "7 19c 42", looks like it may be a DATE.

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It's going to be hard to find replacement parts for that sink so your going to have to get creative if it was me I would use a no-Hub band on the sink with 1-1/2 pvc coming down and pipe from there other than that idk what u can do to save it. It's not the best solution but if it don't leak then it's good enough take a wire brush and try and clean up that rust too for a better seal
 
djmayhill said:
It's going to be hard to find replacement parts for that sink so your going to have to get creative if it was me I would use a no-Hub band on the sink with 1-1/2 pvc coming down and pipe from there other than that idk what u can do to save it. It's not the best solution but if it don't leak then it's good enough take a wire brush and try and clean up that rust too for a better seal
Click to expand...
What is a "no-Hub band on the sink"?
 
There wouldn't be any threads there. That was a flared end pipe with follower flange. Somewhat similar to this exhaust part.
Instead of the more modern slip nut and washer it had a 2-bolt connection. And what's left in the sink probably has a beveled end.

But it looks like it still can be cleaned up and connected with rubber coupling. May have to be an adapter type if the no-hub isn't the correct size. The adapter type which comes in many diameters may not be 100% legal but it really doesn't make a difference here.
Flared end pipe and flange.jpg
 
Cool!
I'm a retired office worker and don't do much of my own work anymore.
But reminds me of waaay back when I had to cut cast Iron soil pipe with a chisel and hammer because my Plumber father didn't own a soil pipe cutter.:rolleyes:
 
A few years back I bought a real nice rigid soil pipe snapper for $10.00 at a garage sale. Couldn't get it in my van fast
enough. It sure is nice to have when you need to cut soil pipe thats in good condition. I've crushed a few pipes with it
to and then ended up cutting it with a sawzall.
 
Thank you everyone!! I have received some great advice. I'll go to a local "plumbing supply house" and show them my old parts and the suggested replacement parts, like the No-Hub Band or the flared end pipe with follower flange (that looks like the old parts I want to replace).
 
I’d try getting a piece of hard copper, and having a machinist roll the flare into it. Also, I’m guessing it is made of concrete, and not soap stone.
 
you could also try whats called an inderect drain like they use in restaurants on food prep sinks. Use a 3x2 coupling right up to bottm of sink and use new ptrap and reconnect to old galvy pipe, it may or may not overflow depending on condition of galvanized pipe if it is corroded or clogged. The vent line that is there should allow good flow unless youre dumping large quantities of water in sink. Not ideal but sometimes you have to get creative to save old fixtures like that.
 
mike fiore said:
you could also try whats called an inderect drain like they use in restaurants on food prep sinks. Use a 3x2 coupling right up to bottm of sink and use new ptrap and reconnect to old galvy pipe, it may or may not overflow depending on condition of galvanized pipe if it is corroded or clogged. The vent line that is there should allow good flow unless youre dumping large quantities of water in sink. Not ideal but sometimes you have to get creative to save old fixtures like that.
Click to expand...
That's a good thought if he had problems connecting to it.
An indirect drain would imply an air gap but as you say, keep the 3x2, or whatever is used as a funnel, right up close.
That drop in the drain line before the trap is borderline siphon. (s-trap)

But once he gets the diameter of the cleaned-up stub, he should be able to match a Fernco rubber type adapter coupling to it.
 
mike fiore said:
you could also try whats called an inderect drain like they use in restaurants on food prep sinks. Use a 3x2 coupling right up to bottm of sink and use new ptrap and reconnect to old galvy pipe, it may or may not overflow depending on condition of galvanized pipe if it is corroded or clogged. The vent line that is there should allow good flow unless youre dumping large quantities of water in sink. Not ideal but sometimes you have to get creative to save old fixtures like that.
Click to expand...

I recently did this with a similar old sink, though I mounted the trap snug, put a bead of silicone around the 3” lip, and stuck it right to the sink. Then put another bead around the crack and fingered it smooth. Felt confidant with the Jerry rigging after it set up. Solid as a rock.
 
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