Bernzomatic Solder Question

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JIMMIEM

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I saw some Bernzomatic Silver solder rolls. One package had a picture of a water faucet and the other package had a picture of a drain pipe and trap. Both packages said Silver solder. Is there a difference in the products and their recommended uses based on the package pictures?
 
That stuff probably only has a trace of silver in it so they can call it silver solder. Don't hold me to that, because I really don't know for sure
There is a misnomer about the term silver solder and silver brazing.
Is there any particular reason you need silver solder. I use Sterling brand lead free solder for Drains and water supply.
Most solder used to be lead base alloy because it flowed easier. Sterling is all I have ever used.

If you want a harder more permanent joint then you will want a brazing alloy .
You're going to need a much hotter torch than a mapp or propane.

regular soldering flux will burn before you get the pipe hot enough to take the silver braze. They make a brazing flux but if you clean the joint well, you don't need it. But once you make a brazed joint you will not undo it like a solder joint.

Sorry I'm just rambling on.

716447140000.jpg
 
That stuff probably only has a trace of silver in it so they can call it silver solder. Don't hold me to that, because I really don't know for sure
There is a misnomer about the term silver solder and silver brazing.
Is there any particular reason you need silver solder. I use Sterling brand lead free solder for Drains and water supply.
Most solder used to be lead base alloy because it flowed easier. Sterling is all I have ever used.

If you want a harder more permanent joint then you will want a brazing alloy .
You're going to need a much hotter torch than a mapp or propane.

regular soldering flux will burn before you get the pipe hot enough to take the silver braze. They make a brazing flux but if you clean the joint well, you don't need it. But once you make a brazed joint you will not undo it like a solder joint.

Sorry I'm just rambling on.

As far as I'm concerned, you are providing some good info and a good education....so keep on.
I was just looking for solder that is ok to use on household copper water supply lines.
 
David, Have you ever used
Product-HARNICK61-1200Wx1200H.jpg

I love this stuff, It is lead free but melts and runs like the old 50/50

use this along with C Flux, if you have a leak it is because you REALLY screwed up
I soldered 45 apartments with ZERO leaks
including the 3'' main
 
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Based on the picture...no. They are the same product. One may of had a newer picture. Look at the copyright year, it just maybe a clue.
 
Based on the picture...no. They are the same product. One may of had a newer picture. Look at the copyright year, it just maybe a clue.
not even close, they are made by different manufactures
and the content is totally different

Sterliing
Material
Copper, Selenium, Tin
Melting Temperature
410 F

Nick
Material
Copper, Nickel, Silver, Tin
melting temperature
219F
 
not even close, they are made by different manufactures
and the content is totally different

Sterliing
Material
Copper, Selenium, Tin
Melting Temperature
410 F

Nick
Material
Copper, Nickel, Silver, Tin
melting temperature
219F

Do you think specgrade was responding to my question concerning the Bernzomatic products?
 
Do you think specgrade was responding to my question concerning the Bernzomatic products?

I think he was responding to your original question.

WOW! Frodo, that Nick melts at 219F. Just 9F hotter than boiling water.
I can see why it flows so easy.
 
I think he was responding to your original question.

WOW! Frodo, that Nick melts at 219F. Just 9F hotter than boiling water.
I can see why it flows so easy.

How I found out about it.
an engineer speced it on a job, I was using sterling at the time. and got my panties in a wad being told what to use. I do not need some numb nut engineer telling me..................
So i set out to prove this nick as BS.
after I soldered up a bunch of stuff, i kinda liked the way it flowed
but...hell no engineer gonna.....................
then with the line under pressure I beat the line with a 2x4, trying to make the joints break loose. it held
then i soldered up the 2.5 and 3'' main line.
OH BABY...this stuff is smooth and you can cap the top of the pipe where the gap usually was.
I used it on every job after that..

with nick and C-flux, if you have a leak it is because you forgot that joint
 
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Based on the picture...no. They are the same product. One may of had a newer picture. Look at the copyright year, it just maybe a clue.

this is what threw me for a loop, he says picture
the only picture i see is the pictures i linked, this is why i assumed he was talking to me
 
this is what threw me for a loop, he says picture
the only picture i see is the pictures i linked, this is why i assumed he was talking to me

I did not post the pictures. I just described the pictures that were on the package....one was a faucet and one was a drain pipe and trap. Again, I was curious as to whether the solder was the same in both packages. I wanted solder for water supply pipes.....not sure if the package with the picture of the drain pipe and trap would be ok to use for this purpose.
 
David, Have you ever used
View attachment 15287

I love this stuff, It is lead free but melts and runs like the old 50/50

use this along with C Flux, if you have a leak it is because you REALLY screwed up
I soldered 45 apartments with ZERO leaks
including the 3'' main
Man, that old 50/50 really did flow didn’t it!
 
not even close, they are made by different manufactures
and the content is totally different

Sterliing
Material
Copper, Selenium, Tin
Melting Temperature
410 F

Nick
Material
Copper, Nickel, Silver, Tin
melting temperature
219F


I could be wrong but I am pretty sure this is a misprint and the melt temp is 219°c or 426.2°f
 
This is from the Harris tech page PDF,



"Nick lead-free plumbing solder has been specifically formulated as a replacement for the tin/lead solders. It has a wide melting range (291°F-144°C) that allows operators to fill small tight fitting pipe connections and also to bridge gaps in large, loose fitting or non-concentric pipe in order to make strong, solid joints. Its ease of application in all types of copper joints makes it the preferred solder of experienced operators and the most forgiving the hands of the less experienced. "

Seems even Harris is unsure :) but I will try some out for sure...thanks for the post.
 
the reason for the wide melting range be able to work the solder.
are you familiar with capping copper?
have you ever worked with 2.5'' and larger copper pipe?
each joint tends to have a crack/separation at the top of the joint where you must fill in
turn the heat down and work it
 
No I only done small stuff 1" and less and even some of that work has been marginal, so I look forward to trying the Nick.
 

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