Can this flange be repaired?

Hi,

I have an elongated offset flange that looks very similar to this one:

http://www.canplas.com/product_category/3-or-4-offset-closet-flange/

The flange sits on top of a concrete subfloor and is glued to the drain pipe.

Flange wings are broken on both sides, as you can see in the pictures.

I can chip away concrete around the flange to create some space underneath it. Then put a repair kit in place.

The question is, what kind of repair kit? I couldn't find a repair kit made for the elongated offset flange.

Any suggestions?

is this in a slab or can you access from underneath??????????

It's a slab.

A spanner flange should fit. You will need to chip away the concrete so you can slide them into position.

CT18 said:

A spanner flange should fit. You will need to chip away the concrete so you can slide them into position.

Click to expand...

How would I keep the spanner flanges secure in place?

I am guessing I should screw them to the concrete slab using tapcon screws. I can't think of another way.

they slide under the part of the flange that isnt broke

CT18 said:

they slide under the part of the flange that isnt broke

Click to expand...

I am not sure if I have enough material left to hold the spanner flange in place. Especially on the left side. Right side might be okay. Left side will likely tilt or slip out completely as I tighten the closet bolt.

In any case, I will give it a try and see how it goes. I can always screw it down if need be.

Thank you for reading and responding!

That's a tough one even for me.
The bottom of that fitting was probably a hub glued onto pipe.



Can't tell in the photo.

If it was a street end glued inside the hub of the 90 below Then you might be able to drill it out with a ram bit.
If you can remove the entire flange, I would try to replace with one that had a stainless steel ring.

I'm not fond of repair flanges. If the concrete is solid maybe just sink some anchors in the concrete.
with all those slot and gaps, your biggest concern would be the water tight seal.




.

EliG said:

How would I keep the spanner flanges secure in place?

I am guessing I should screw them to the concrete slab using tapcon screws. I can't think of another way.

Click to expand...

there is also a stainless stell ring that can be placed ove the compromised flange and secured by stainless steel tap con screws

Mr_David said:

If it was a street end glued inside the hub of the 90 below Then you might be able to drill it out with a ram bit.
If you can remove the entire flange, I would try to replace with one that had a stainless steel ring.

Click to expand...

Yes, there is definitely a 90 down there. I think you are right that the flange is glued inside the 90. Green arrow is where I feel the bottom edge of the flange.

Red arrow points to a small "shelf" with some excess ABS cement. I am not sure why it's there. I can't feel any seams or connections in that area.

I like your suggestion to drill out. Old toilet was 10". I can convert to 12" if I install a new angled flange.

Need to mull this over. It's a bit more work than I wanted to do. I'm just a weekend warrior.

Geofd said:

there is also a stainless stell ring that can be placed ove the compromised flange and secured by stainless steel tap con screws

Click to expand...

Yes, I went out and bought one. It's not stainless but covered with a rustproof coating.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superior-Tool-Toilet-Anchor-Flange/1061201





I think it fits reasonably well. The repair should be fairly straightforward:

1. Drill anchor holes.
2. Use wax to fill out all nooks and crannies in the old flange.
3. Silicone the steel ring to the flange.
4. Secure the ring to the floor with tapcon screws.

12" doesn't look like a good fit. I would have to special order a 10" toilet.

Here's another option I'm looking at... Danco HydroSeat:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBBAN5K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's available at Lowe's so I bought one for a quick fit:





Steps to repair:

1. Drill anchor holes.
2. Use wax to fill out all nooks and crannies. Create a flat surface flush with the damaged flange.
3. Install a wax ring.
4. Put HydroSeat on top.
5. Secure HydroSeat with tapcon screws. This also compresses the wax ring below.

I am concerned that the round wax ring has to go on top of an oval flange (step 3). Not sure if it's a good fit especially because the flange is damaged. There is not enough solid surface left on the sides to support the wax ring.

I think I like the steel ring solution a lot better. In any case, I have until the weekend to pick one of the options.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions!

what you are doing will work

I would, see post #10 cut the hub/pipe where the red arrow shows


3'' fitting, fits tight into 4'' pipe ,,

so, 2 ways you can go, cut the 3'' hub, and add a short 4'' pipe
then use a 4'' closet flange

or

the way i described ,in the cheesy drawing

Geofd said:

there is also a stainless stell ring that can be placed ove the compromised flange and secured by stainless steel tap con screws

Click to expand...

The problem I see with that is the flange is already a bit high and the add a ring will make it higher.

frodo said:

what you are doing will work

Click to expand...

Sorry, did you mean to say will NOT work??

frodo said:

so, 2 ways you can go, cut the 3'' hub, and add a short 4'' pipe
then use a 4'' closet flange

or

the way i described ,in the cheesy drawing

Click to expand...

Thank you, that's a great idea.

Mr_David said:

The problem I see with that is the flange is already a bit high and the add a ring will make it higher.

Click to expand...

I am thinking about installing laminate planks on top of the ugly tile. I may need to raise the flange in any case, or add a spacer ring.

Let’s under complicate things. Set toilet down dry. Take a pencil to mark thru mounting holes into concrete. Purchase a 5/16 stud concrete anchor. Place toilet aside. Drill and set anchors into concrete. Mark your anchors to leave 2.5” of thread exposed. Preset your anchor. Place wax set toilet. Tighten anchor bolt hand tight then half a turn each till toilet doesn’t “ding” when you slap DOWNWARD on toilet seat.

EliG said:

I am thinking about installing laminate planks on top of the ugly tile. I may need to raise the flange in any case, or add a spacer ring.

Click to expand...

good,

if you are going to do that, then break the floor and position the toilet in the correct spot
doing away with the offset toilet flange
stub up with 4'', pour your concrete then use an inside 4'' flange, after the floor is finished

did, done, did done right

We do not have this flange, but we have stainless steel flange.

http://www.pursueplumbing.com/valve-pipe-fitting/grooved-flange.html

We have a Spanner Closet Flange that might help.

See attached image. Equiparts part #05499
http://store.equiparts.net/05499-spanner-closet-flange.html