Sweating copper near plumbers tape

[branimal]

I'm installing a tub filler in my bathroom reno. I think sweating the copper from the valve pictured below back toward the supply line will be the easiest way to make sure things line up.

My questions are:
1. Do I need to use plumbers tape on the male copper threads screwed into the valve. Pic below.

2. Will sweating the copper fittings melt the plumbers tape to the point it no longer holds the seal.

 

[johnjh2o]

solder the copper into the male before connecting to the valve.

 

[Matt30]

And yes, you will need teflon tape or thread sealer

 

[frodo]

like Mr Matt suggested, sweat the adapter onto the pipe, let it cool then apply pipe dope to the threads and tighten with a wrench

 

[branimal]

Will a wet rag on the pipe protect the teflon tape's Integrity for sweats further up the pipe?

 

[Matt30]

That will help, but I usually prefabricate as much as I can before I thread it on. If it's close quarters, be very careful how much heat you apply. Once solder starts flowing, that's enough. Also remove any rubber components from the tub filler before soldering

 

[branimal]

That will help, but I usually prefabricate as much as I can before I thread it on. If it's close quarters, be very careful how much heat you apply. Once solder starts flowing, that's enough. Also remove any rubber components from the tub filler before soldering

Yeah very tight spot. I think I'll use unions so I can tighten last fitting into place.

Good call on removing any rubber.

 

[Matt30]

If it's that close, would it be better / safer to adapt to pex

 

[branimal]

If it's that close, would it be better / safer to adapt to pex

Code requires copper. Wish I could use pex

 

[frodo]

I usually pre-fab shower head riser, the tub spout, and the hot cold parts.
then put it all together, hang the valve using 2 screws in the drop eared 90 on the shower head
then, hook up the hot/cold lines

 

[Matt30]

Code requires copper. Wish I could use pex

My code would allow it, but im Canada. Just curious what your code states about using copper?

 

[branimal]

My code would allow it, but im Canada. Just curious what your code states about using copper?

I think buildings taller than 3 stories require copper pipe.

I believe the concern is fires melting pex. That's why nohub cast iron is required as well.

Rats are another concern.

 

[branimal]

I sweated the male adapter to a 90 and then a short run of copper. Then installed into the valve body with plumbers tape. Put a wet rag on the spot marked with a pink line and sweated the rest of the copper run into place. Seems to be holding.

When I went to install the tub fillers post to the valve, screwing it tight leaves the spout not looking straight ahead. I'll try wrapping the valve's threads with plumbers tape to have it snug up where I want it. Guess I should have installed the spout onto the valve first to see where it gets tight.

 

[frodo]

are going to bury that valve without an access door?
whatcha gonna do if you need to change an oring?

 

[branimal]

So I just read up on plumbers tape. It's a thread lubricant and sealant. So my idea of wrapping plumbers tape won't work.

I'll look at shimming the valve body as shown below. Maybe some rubber washers.

I want the spout to face in the direction of the pink arrow. Not the green arrow.

 

[branimal]

are going to bury that valve without an access door?
whatcha gonna do if you need to change an oring?

Damn good question. The access points to remove the top brass assembly (where the orings are located) are level with the joists. If I could make an Allen key style tool perhaps I could slip that in the space between the escutcheon and the top brass assembly. I wouldn't bank on it.

What do you suggest?

 

[frodo]

I suggest measuring the escutcheon then set the unit above the floor till the escutcheon just covers it

 

[voletl]

Hey just wondering did you use Type L copper because I can see the barcode on that piece of copper in the picture has a red tag on it.

 

[branimal]

Hey just wondering did you use Type L copper because I can see the barcode on that piece of copper in the picture has a red tag on it.

Type M I believe.

 

[voletl]

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