I managed to fit in the unmodified santee with cut 90. Just cut away a little Sheetrock and metal framing.
Good to know that I can tilt the santee if needed.
I'll post some pics later today.
No hub cast iron Imperfect vent connection
- Thread starter branimal
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I managed to fit in the unmodified santee with cut 90. Just cut away a little Sheetrock and metal framing.
Good to know that I can tilt the santee if needed.
I'll post some pics later today.
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if you do not grind the letters and number off the fitting it will leak
dont ask how i know
Ok I setup my drains using santees.
So much more straightforward.
Here are some pics.
Some observations:
- The new lines can handle much more flow vs the setup with all the 90s. The old ptraps would overflow when I opened up the water full blast. New setup no issues.
- the fancy no hub coupling with four straps (the one after the wye) was a leaker. Replaced it with a standard coupling and she's dry. Weird.... these cost me $9 a piece. Considering replacing the other two fancy couplings on the shower drain.
- cutting pipes using and old NH coupling got me some straight/ smooth cuts.
So much more straightforward.
Here are some pics.
Some observations:
- The new lines can handle much more flow vs the setup with all the 90s. The old ptraps would overflow when I opened up the water full blast. New setup no issues.
- the fancy no hub coupling with four straps (the one after the wye) was a leaker. Replaced it with a standard coupling and she's dry. Weird.... these cost me $9 a piece. Considering replacing the other two fancy couplings on the shower drain.
- cutting pipes using and old NH coupling got me some straight/ smooth cuts.
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looks good
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I couldn't figure out why you wanted to use 2" cast iron p-trap for the tub until I saw the filler. The tub is not a typical tub, but a custom tile job like a shower. Makes more since.
No it's just a free standing tub. No tile required.
I used 2" because i had a long 2" drain run already there.
Like this? Makes a lot more since now.
This is one I roughed in and installed
This is one I roughed in and installed
David has the answer,
NO FRODO!!
You had the answer already. I was just trying to make since out of what I saw in the photos.
Add a cleanout on the vent at the wall if you can. You will thank yourself down the road.
I never understood why cleanouts are necessary at the vent. Wouldn't you just snake the drain?
There's a closet in the opposite side of the vent line. So I guess I could put a door in there.
Where would you put the cleanout in my vent setup?
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I never understood why cleanouts are necessary at the vent. Wouldn't you just snake the drain?
There's a closet in the opposite side of the vent line. So I guess I could put a door in there.
Where would you put the cleanout in my vent setup?
this drawing will show you why, i do not like to type paragraphs
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no. the clean out has to be the same size as the sewer it serves. 2''
then buy a chrome clean out cover, and a thread tap. tap the co plug, the size of the clean cover screw
you use a 2x2x 2 tap tee
if your vent is 1.5 then reduce on top of the tap tee with a 2x1.5 reducing band
then buy a chrome clean out cover, and a thread tap. tap the co plug, the size of the clean cover screw
you use a 2x2x 2 tap tee
if your vent is 1.5 then reduce on top of the tap tee with a 2x1.5 reducing band
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The problem is the tub drain waste and overflow is only 1-1/2".
You insist on using a 2". You get a 2 " hair ball stoppage down stream from that trap arm santee you're going to be glad you installed that cleanout
You're going to want to move that C.O. up a bit
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