Multiple questions about water heater

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yes, that is an angle stop valve


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BrassCraft-OCR14C1-rw-254582-356936.jpg
 
Thanks, Frodo! That helps very much!

So PVC cement on the non-threaded pvc parts, teflon tape on the threaded parts, and CPVC cement on the CPVC nonthreaded parts?
 
frodo said:
throw the teflon tape away, get a can of rectum seal #5 yellow baby **** looking stuff
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Click to expand...

I just replaced my sprinkler manifold and valves using Rectorseal on all threaded parts. Turned out great with no leaks anywhere!
 
Caduceus said:
See, that's what I'm trying to cypher out here Mr. David. You would think that the cold side would be just as problematic, but that's not the case (with the probability of one toilet as an exception). So you can ask yourself "How does air get into only the hot side?" Then we ask ourselves "What changed on the plumbing system just before the issue started?" you would immediately go towards the well repair as the culprit.
So maybe Mr. David is on the right track. Could the air being introduced into the cold supply be accumulating at the highest point (the water heater) and be causing the problem? Maybe our well specialists could recommend some easy diagnostics to rule out. or confirm, the possibility.
Click to expand...

You're probably on the right track. Toilet could be purging the air from the cold side and tank is collecting it and is more noticeable when hot water is drawn from the heater.

I'm still reading through this thread trying to catch up
 
KULTULZ said:
But the valve needs to be tested on a regular basis, correct?

If it is opened (and works correctly) and it leaks @ closing, it needs to be replaced and the tank serviced.
Click to expand...

You're probably right. But you better qualify the replacement cost with the customer before you open it. Chances are it WILL leak.

We have an unwritten policy< DON'T open the T&P unless you are planning on replacing it.
 
Mr_David said:
But you better qualify the replacement cost with the customer before you open it. Chances are it WILL leak.

We have an unwritten policy< DON'T open the T&P unless you are planning on replacing it.
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct. I was coming from the direction of a knowledgeable home owner performing the check and his/her/mutants ability to replace the valve on his own.

Your correction is coming from a service person's point and/or a home owners inability to replace his own valve after performing the test and the resultant cost of having a professional do it.

THANX for that clarification... ;)
 
frodo said:
got a pc and a couple hundred bucks? you can be a certified home inspector also
Click to expand...

...hmmph...

Reminds me of a few years ago, I applied to an online school to be one of those private eyes. You know, danger...beautiful women...big bucks...

I paid the tuition but never heard from them again. Was this my first test, to try and find them? They said there was a no refund policy... :(

Confused In W (By GOD) V...

(Our official state flower is a satellite dish.)
 
Thanks for the info!
Rectum seal.. LOL!!

So, I should use the slic-tite on my cpvc? Would it be ok to use on the pvc as well?

I should get some to use on the outside threaded faucet thing because right now it has teflon tape, but I didn't have any pipe dope. I will have to see if the local hardware store carries it. Last time I asked about pipe dope a few years ago, the clerk just stared at me like a dope. :p

Reminds me I need to fix a few exterior water lines for hoses.
 
I know this is old & I have a lot of projects going, but I'm thinking about this one again because I'm wondering how much life my water heater has & still want to fix it.
Looking at the pictures again, I realized that the pvc female to threaded male (mip? mtp?) fitting is currently on my cold water line & that is what the hose hooks to.
So, I could get a female threaded ball valve like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-Brass-3-4-in-FNPT-Ball-Valve/1000248315
Plus a male threaded nipple so the hose can attach to it: https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-Threaded-Male-Adapter-Nipple-Fitting/1000505665 for the hose to connect to.

Further down the thread I saw mention of a dialectric nipples to reduce heat loss from the hoses. Like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Pack-Water-Heater-Dielectric-Nipples/3693216
How would I connect this? Would it attach directly to the top of the water heater? Would I need a female adapter/coupling? Is it even necessary?
 
Good morning !!!!!!!!!!!!!

here is the info you requested

w_h1.png

you can buy either a flex connector for the cold inlet
that is fip on both ends and a brass nipple to transition

or you can buy a flex connector that is fip on one end and mip on the other
choice is yours to make

or. for a 3rd option. big yellow box store, sells a complete kit that has
every thing.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Frodo!
The fip x mip would probably be simpler than having to get the brass nipple (one less place to leak). I'm trying to find one that is in stock (or maybe I can get it from amazon). They have a bunch of push-fit ones that come with a ball valve attached but I'm wary of push-fit. But, this kit looks pretty nice https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...er-Installation-Kit-EBWCB-07-18EKIT/206512094

How exactly do the dialectric nipples fit on the water heater? Aren't there already nipples coming out? It looks like the current lines are fipxfip so the water heater would need some sort of adapter-- unless the current nipples can be removed.
 
Thanks again, Frodo! Is the corrugated hose better than the braided steel hoses?
 
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