Bathroom/Laundry remodel: Assistance requested

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Zanne

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I hope this is the right section to post this.
I live in a house that was probably built in the 30s or 40s and had some remodeling done in the 60s or 70s. Nothing was done to code since I'm out in the woods and the people didn't seem to know what they were doing.

One of the main problem areas currently is the hall at the back of the house that leads to the back door (which is on the side of the house), a tiny useless bathroom, and a very cramped laundry room. During the winter it gets very cold there and summer it gets extremely hot. There was no insulation put in the exterior walls and the tenants ripped the wall panels off and ruined the old parkay wood floor. The subfloor has some damage and a plastic sheet (probably a moisture barrier is visible. We had linoleum installed but the installers messed it up and the white powder mixed with water that was used to patch some holes seems to have broken up in some spots. The linoleum ripped when the new Electrolux IQ touch washer and dryer were being put in a few years ago.

This is the set we have (complete with pedestals):
tumblr_moj6a3fwNo1qhfuqwo1_500.jpg


They are each 27" wide and 31.5" deep. I forgot to measure the height with pedestals but they stick up over the window in the laundry room. If crammed together so they are touching, they are about 54" wide. Their doors are about 4" thick when opened bc of the clear plastic stuff on the inside to hold clothes in.

Other than the washer/dryer set, the only good thing about the area is the vintage ceiling fan (I believe its Evergo). Remember when they used to put stencils on ceiling fan blades? These ones have gold-colored stencils on white blades. We installed the fan in the 80s.

The bathroom is 72.5" from North to South and 56" from east to west. External measurements of the shower = 33"w x 35"l.
The toilet is crammed into the 23" space between the shower and the East wall. I know current building codes require at least 30" for the toilet space (at least 15" from center of the toilet to each side).

The hallway going to the laundry is approx. 34.5" wide for an 80" run and then it opens up to the laundry area.

The laundry area is about 94.5"w x 61"l (less the aforementioned 34.5" cutout for the hallway on the north wall). There are obstructions in various places such as protruding shutoff valves and capped pipe in Southwest corner and the north wall has the water supply and other things jutting out about 4" to 5". The north wall itself is about 60"w.
Because of the stuff behind the washer and dryer they end up jutting out about 35.5" in to the room, leaving about 25.5" of space to walk in front of them, open doors, and load laundry.

If the washer & dryer were put on the east wall they would be so cramped that the dryer door would not open far enough.

So I don't get too confusing, here is a diagram/rough sketch I made using MS paint.
tumblr_mou5znhdhm1qkwd9ao1_r2_400.png


When my ISP's late night free zone is open again I'll try to remember to upload some photos (but it was not easy to get decent ones in such a cramped space).

I don't have the right software to make everything proportionate and accurate so I know that I botched the sizes in the sketch.

Anyway, the bedroom nearest to the area is my brother's. He has two doors to his room (one on the east and one on the west). He weighs about 380lbs and is over 30" wide so he can't even sit on the toilet, he can only fit into the laundry area with his back to the wall (he has a very hard time fitting in with a laundry hamper) and he can't really move inside the shower.

I'm fairly certain none of the interior walls are load-bearing.

My brother was thinking of ditching his door on the east side since he doesn't currently use it (he actually suggested gutting his closet and having a door that leads directly in to the pantry so he can grab snacks whenever he wants-- but I know he was joking) but I think we'll keep it so he will be able to access the bathroom area once it is fixed up.

I plan to demo the walls and remove the shower and toilet myself. I have a friend who recently remodeled his own house who said he would help (I helped him with his house). He knows how to run electrical, put up drywall, etc. I actually have wall panels that were pulled out of the pantry when we gutted it.

Right now I need help with:
* The layout-- figuring out the best use of space for the area after the bathroom walls are torn down
* Whether or not any of the walls should NOT be torn down
* Selecting flooring that is water resistant, can withstand all sorts of abuse (heavy things falling-- appliances being moved), but isn't too expensive.
* Making sure everything is done to building codes for my area (which I'm sure are actually fairly loose or are not really enforced bc I see new construction going up that I know would not be to code in other places).
* Whether or not I should keep a shower in the area or just ditch it all together.
* Figuring out how much money should be spent on the project. Value of house probably not important bc the market here is awful (but people do want the land).


My current ideas:
Plan A1: Gut everything, insulate exterior walls, put up paneling, not sure where to put things. Was thinking of having a toilet stall in either the same place as the current toilet or moving the toilet to the south wall or something. Either full walls around the toilet or more like the stalls you find in store bathrooms (which would probably look pretty tacky but would work). Might keep the existing toilet even though it blows (would love to get another Toto Drake but I don't think mom would splurge for that-- would actually like to take her old Toto drake and get a Drake II for her bathroom). We have a small vanity with a large sink that could be used for hand-washing after toilet use as well as for rinsing some clothes and/or handwashing things. (I'll get measurements on that sink later). Ideas for door to toilet area ranged from bifold doors to a simple curtain. No shower in this version.
Pros: Plenty of open space to work with and easy to access laundry area without bumping into walls. My brother would have his own designated bathroom and would not have to wake me up to go through my room to go to my bathroom and I would not have to clean up his mess afterward. He would not wake mother up by stumbling into her room loudly in the middle of the night to use her bathroom, thus she would not be in such a bad mood when she wakes up. I would not have to clean his toilet.
Cons: Aesthetically might not look balanced for back door and would not have a wall to keep out cold/hot air-- less wall space for storage. Lack of shower reduces home value slightly and bro would need to use someone else's shower.

Plan A2: Same as plan A except maybe with something for a shower. It would have to be big enough to fit my brother so he could freely move around inside (and it would have to be tall enough since he's over 6") yet small enough not to cut in to the space in that area. Showerhead would be one of those detachable ones that that can be moved around to spray harder to reach spots-- but could also be used to spray laundry or other items if need be. I've seen showers where there is only one wall and a shower curtain circles-- but I think my bro would need support if he slipped and I'd like to have a grab bar somewhere in the area. I'm debating whether a shower pan would be a good idea or if it would be better to create a custom shower-- perhaps using a membrane instead of stupid plastic liner (and hot-mopping is a definite "no"). Not sure how to make one without tile though-- and my mother HATES tile.
Pros: Same as A1 but add in shower which would give brother place to clean up and maintain home value. Could help wash other items that won't fit in sink. My brother wouldn't have to go into my room or my mother's room and make a mess in the bathroom when he takes a shower.
Cons: less wall space, less space for other things if shower included. Shower would be more expensive and must be done properly or can leak and ruin floor. Requires more plumbing changes.

Plan B1: Pretty much the same as Plan A1 except the north wall of the bathroom would stay as a bit of a divider (and to provide some wall space for storage). Aesthetically it would probably look better than just having the laundry room exposed.
Pros: More wall space for storage. Aesthetically balanced for back door. Gives divider to break flow of cold/hot air from door.
Cons: Probably have to remove bathroom door for it. Might make it a bit more cramped when trying to access laundry area.

Plan B2: Same as A2 except north bathroom wall would stay.
Same pros and cons as B1.

Plan C1&2: Same as B1&2 except north bathroom wall would extend all the way to the west wall, allowing my brother to reach the bathroom area in privacy. Not sure how well that would work. Perhaps we could use a curtain or something there. We currently have a curtain in the archway from the kitchen to the back hall. A lot of heat and cold comes in from that door so the separation helps.
Pros: More privacy for bro. Possibly more area set aside as bathroom? (depends on placement of everything). Divider keeps cold/hot air flow blocked and allows room to stay warmer/cooler. Possibly more wall space for storage/shelves.
Cons: Less space for laundry. Might be harder to access area when carrying laundry (more cramped). Probably more expensive bc some walls will have to be added and will require more wall covering (which would be existing old wall panels plus cheap plywood painted in Killz-- already have Killz). Part of wall might have to go at neo angle to not interfere with brother's door.

Other notes: The window in the laundry room is just under 23"wide and is 18" from the south wall. The bathroom has no lighting and is being used as a storage closet so I didn't get the window measurement there. That window in particular is home to spiders. The whole room is probably a spider nest by now actually. The measurements are approximate since I am not very handy with a measuring tape and I have trouble seeing the smaller lines. If it isn't .25 or .5 or right on the mark of a main number I have trouble seeing it.

The vanity/sink is like this:
60fb8ab0a89357dad0d155d4f41d582f.jpg

but will have a higher faucet-- I wish I could find one with a spray attachment that wouldn't be expensive.

Another thought is that part of the existing north wall of the bathroom could be kept but part of it removed to give a wider space but still have some division.

Things that would be nice to have in the room if space/$ allows:
* some sort of surface for folding laundry
* some place to store dirty laundry waiting to be washed but that is out of reach for cats so they can't use it as a litterbox
* A place where clean laundry can be set/stored before being folded or put away (perhaps an unmatched sock bin somewhere so we can try to collect up the socks and match them).
* An electric vent that removes moisture from the air so the room does not become too damp (I think current bathroom has vent-lite-heat thingy but am not certain).
* Find place to re-use between-the-studs mirrored medicine cabinet (I know it wouldn't be able to go on the exterior walls unless I just built a box to go around it and have it jut out from the wall or something).
* Enough space to bring in a folding chair or seat so laundry can be handled while sitting (my mother will need this). Would be nice if there was room for a chair that is actually comfortable that can be moved in to place.
* Since cats might be prone to go there, a litterbox area:
057bdfe4b4210800791e1508ce430794.jpg


Picture ideas for inspiration
Storage-- rods that stick out for drying things (could be placed directly on wall)
14b66a5b575d5029609eb6b35570ea4b.jpg

But I'm only 5'5" so it would have to be within reach unless I had an apparatus for grabbing things.

Drying thing that pulls out for use and collapses to wall when not in use.
ca5f50ff84530d38b75e459cca3c4b3c.jpg


Drawers that pull out and have racks for drying
a2391a9c4bb3340ecd6f5e394ee7669e.jpg


More things that fold out from the wall
42dcec092a8ef64605937e158fe5c1a5.jpg


Rolling shelf thingy that goes between machines or could go between machine and wall.
8f9617123b98e2b13535e7c0db1831e6.jpg


Too bad we probably don't have space for something like this (but with frosted glass)
597755bfa49c85cd511589d3a0195264.jpg


Anyone know of good free software for laying this stuff out-- something easy to use?

Any comments, questions, suggestions, & encouraging statements would be appreciated.

PS. The room will have to be cat friendly.
 
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I have pictures to present a better idea of what I'm dealing with.

This is a rough diagram of my house with the plumbing vents marked in red.
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This is a Sims 3 version of my house (its limited by the grid placement allowance in the game so is larger than the actual house in some ways)
tumblr_mp1l0bOXIP1qkwd9ao2_1280.jpg


Chris B over on the terrylove forums was kind enough to draw this up for me. It is the existing floor plan.
tumblr_mp5h1fdByl1qkwd9ao1_1280.jpg


There are two smaller plumbing vents and one large one (which I believe is to the septic tank).
The first one is in the wall shared by the laundry room and bathroom and comes out of the roof
tumblr_mp1mdhiLzQ1qkwd9ao4_1280.jpg

tumblr_mp5gb1TnSp1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


It's behind the washer/dryer
tumblr_mp1oilgX2S1qkwd9ao3_1280.jpg


The plumbing behind the washer is rather messy:
tumblr_mp1oilgX2S1qkwd9ao1_1280.jpg


Here is the wiring
tumblr_mp5i19C0XO1qkwd9ao1_1280.jpg


The southwest corner of the laundry room looks like it once had hookups for a sink. (I tried to clean the floor but my f-ing mop broke and the last time I got down on the floor I had a hard time getting back up)
tumblr_mp1lmd8j3D1qkwd9ao4_1280.jpg


The second vent (which I think is the same size as the laundry one) comes out of from under the house on the east side just under the kitchen sink. It has a cleanout. The horizontal pipe underneath the house is currently disconnected. It came loose at the seams and I tried to fix it but my idiot brother ignored not only my verbal instructions to not run water-- but the sign that I taped to the faucet saying not to run the water. I should have just used the shutoff valves. But I was under the house and had just put the glue on and was about to put the pipe back together when the douchewaffle rinsed something and water poured out. I've been procrastinating and haven't wanted to climb under there again.
tumblr_mp5g54Zuku1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


It goes up and then wraps around the window (less than 6" above the sink)
tumblr_mp5g74OVed1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


And it ends under the soffit (which I know it should not do)
tumblr_mp5g90Dh8c1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


The largest vent comes out on the west side of the house just south of the master bedroom window.
tumblr_mp1mdhiLzQ1qkwd9ao2_500.jpg


The tiny bathroom is currently serving as a storage closet
tumblr_mp1lmd8j3D1qkwd9ao3_1280.jpg

tumblr_mp5gcw95Gd1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


It has a vent/light/heater just in front of the shower (it doesn't work anymore and I can't get it open to change the light bulb)
tumblr_mp5ggwNfYc1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


No wall panels on the wall outside the bathroom (nor on the west wall near the door). The metal box is the medicine cabinet.
tumblr_mp1lmd8j3D1qkwd9ao1_1280.jpg


I was thinking of having a toilet stall somewhat like the one in this picture (a pity this layout won't work for the space that I have)
tumblr_mp02lfBlML1qhfuqwo1_400.jpg


Sans window I would like something like this (without the open space underneath the side shelves)
29de318a243b72144e4c36d808407b0d.jpg


The cardboard on the floor is covering up floor damage where the linoleum is torn.

I need to come up with the best configuration that will let my brother use a toilet and possibly shower (if there is space) and have room for the laundry with space to store stuff that is ready to be washed as well as some stuff waiting to be folded or put away. The vanity will be used as the sink for the laundry room as it is deep enough to rinse some clothes in. I want to figure out how to get some sort of spray hose type thing like for a kitchen sink that can be used to hose things down-- unless there is a shower that has one of those shower heads with a long hose that can be pulled out and used to spray stuff.

I'm starting to think that instead of walls for the bathroom part there might be curtains that can be pushed out of the way whenever nobody is using the bathroom part.

My A/C guy said he's also an electrician and plumber (not sure if he's certified) and that he can get new vent lights and other fixtures for me for a lower price than I could get in stores (with 10% sales tax in town, that might be helpful). I may also check out the surplus lumber place in Alexandria to see what sort of stuff they have there.

I have some doors lying in the barn that might be usable if necessary. I'll have to pull them out and measure them.

So, given all this junk, anyone have some suggestions (other than to burn the place down and start from scratch?)
 
So, this is on my mind again because my laundry room area is absolutely freezing and I know that we need to figure out how to warm it up (and keep it cool during the summer).
Also, when my brother saw the progress on my bathroom he became excited and expressed his desire to use my shower. I've been having to share a bathroom with him for years. He is a slob and I really don't want to have to clean up after him in my own bathroom. Plus my door can be pushed open with light pressure even when locked and he doesn't knock before entering (and when he does, he doesn't always wait for me to say he can come in) so he would be charging loudly through my room at all hours of the night and then making a mess.
Thus I would love for him to have his own bathroom and leave mine alone. I'm still somewhat traumatized by that time I went to the bathroom at 2am and discovered the toilet seat lying on the floor and smeared with excrement (I have absolutely zero problem with the seat being left up, that takes less than 2 seconds to rectify, but THAT situation took a lot longer and was not cool at all).
To see my bathroom project: http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f19/my-bathroom-repair-project-4788/
It is currently on hold due to the weather.

My aunt, who is a retired real estate agent, said that while removing the shower would reduce the number of full bathrooms and slightly reduce the value of the home, a completely nonfunctional bathroom as we have now, would hurt the value even more.
I think the cheapest solution (but not the most ideal) would be to just remove the existing useless tiny shower and then move the toilet over so that it is the required distance from the walls and then put the vanity in to replace the former wall-mount sink that literally fell off the wall one day.
More on that later.

Things I need to find out
*Which pipes are hooked to the existing plumbing and if they are properly vented.
*Can a sink drain be converted to a washing machine drain?
*How much would the vents and pipes need to be changed if fixtures are moved around?
*What material would be best for the walls in a wetroom bathroom?
*What is the best way to seal up up a window (but still get light from it) to prevent moisture damage from a shower? (This is IF I try to move the shower to the East wall)
*Are there any vent/light/heaters that are ductless?
*What is the best way to build a shower on a tiny budget
*Is it possible to do any of this for under $2k (assuming I do most of the labor myself and just need supplies)
*Was the health inspector correct when he said I would not need permits for renovating my house/bathrooms?
*Who would I concat (what department) to find out about permits
*will my fat a$$ still fit under the house to make some of the necessary changes? (This time hopefully without getting stuck)
*How much rope would I need to tie around my waist to have someone pull me out if I get stuck again? (ok, just kidding on this one- sort of)

I'm thinking of using the existing hot and cold water supply lines from the old bathroom sink to provide water to the washing machine (IF we decide to swap the laundry room and bathroom).

I finally took the time to do some rough sketches with approximate measurements. This one is more detailed than previous sketches.
1391853_430078787124992_1049116874_n.jpg


Some notes:
*The yellow box near the 36" door on the east wall is a light switch. There are actually 2 of them stacked on top of each other. One is to the hall area and the other is to the former exterior light. The box for it is about dead center of the doorway on top of the door (I did not mark it on the diagram). The light was broken during hurricane Rita and we never replaced it.
*There is a light (I think fluorescent) that is above the medicine cabinet. It was too dark for me to see, but it seems to plug in to some outlet in the bathroom. I believe the outlet is near the light switches on the anterior side. I need my electrician friend to look at it because it blinks the bulb on briefly when I pull the chain, but then it just blinks back off.
*The bottoms of the windows start at about 46.5" from the floor.
*With the 15"H pedestals underneath, the washer and dryer are 53"H.
*The doors on the washer and dryer are reversible so I could switch their positions if need be.
*There is a shelf above/behind the washer and dryer but it is just barely hanging on to the wall-- I think it would fall if the washer and dryer were moved.
*I'm not quite sure where the plumbing for the existing shower is just yet. I'm assuming it may be in that side wall that I want to demolish.
*I believe the westernmost wall is load bearing but the one I want to remove is not.
*There is already somewhat of a door frame just before entering the laundry area. I'm thinking of narrowing it to 24" to use the existing bathroom door-- but I have other doors down in the barn that are wider and could be cleaned up and used instead. I would have to measure them.
*The ceiling fan is a small one that attaches to the ceiling from a rod.
*There is a toilet paper holder embedded in the east wall next to the toilet but I didn't mark it on the diagram.
*I'm not sure on the dimensions of the ventilight yet since I'm too short to reach and can't fit a ladder in there to measure. I think it is about 12"x13" or 12"x14".
*The ventilight doesn't work at all (none of the 3 switches do anything when I flip them) and I don't know if it is even hooked in to the ductwork or if it just vents into the attic.
*I have a friend who is a certified electrician. He also has experience building doorways & walls and will work for food (specifically Popeye's chicken).
*I was wondering if I could use an Air Admittance Valve for some of the fixtures to avoid having to mess with the vents, but I have read some negative things about them and I think they are not allowed in my state.

I got distracted several times while trying to type this up so I lost my train of thought.
Anyway, on with the sketches and plans.

Plan A
1554391_430583093741228_397268006_n.jpg

Basically this would use the existing floorplan and just tear out the shower, patch the walls and floors, and maybe build some sort of storage around the toilet as shown in the previous post.
Because the pipes for the old wall-mount sink came up through the floor, they would interfere with the vanity, which has a drawer. My options to rectify this:
a) Bump the vanity forward and build something around the pipes on the sides and top (the back of the vanity is open). This would make things even more cramped in the room.
b) Move the existing drain and water supplies backward into the wall but leave an access panel for the shutoffs- this would only work if not over a joist and would require changes under the house).
c) Leave the plumbing where it is, but make a cutout in the drawer and bottom of the vanity to go around the pipes. This would reduce storage space and would be sort of a pain.
The laundry room would be left alone.
Pros: It is the least expensive of the plans and doesn't require much work and should not really involve changes to the venting. This one would leave more money for cosmetic fixes-- such as building a frame around the medicine cabinet to try to match it to the vanity and maybe getting a light that doesn't suck.
Cons: Lowers house value by not having a shower and still does not solve cramped laundry situation.

Plan B
1620652_430583137074557_822438987_n.jpg

This is about the same as Plan A but would involve rotating the washer & dryer clockwise and putting them against the east wall.
Pros: Bathroom- same as Plan A. Laundry area might have more space and it would be easier to access the front of the washer & dryer. It seems it might leave enough room to have some sort of wall-mounted fold-down table or some other form of storage.
Cons: Same bathroom cons. This would still leave unused plumbing jutting out in the laundry room. I'm not certain if there would really be as much room for opening the doors on the washer and dryer since both will be restricted by walls somewhat. The window will be blocked (although it is already partially blocked now). With this plan, the floor and subfloor in the laundry room would have to be repaired. I'm not sure if the power cords would reach the existing outlet so it might need to be moved. The drain for the washer might need to be moved as well.

Plan C
1725467_430583483741189_431555244_n.jpg

This one involves a lot more work and more money. The west wall of the bathroom would be completely removed. The north wall of the bathroom would be mostly (if not entirely) removed. This would leave more room for the laundry and make it easier to reach the washer and dryer. There might be more room for shelves and possibly for things to sort laundry.
Pros: Uses existing bathroom door (could possibly even recycle parts of the frame). Uses existing plumbing from old removed utility sink for vanity. Maintains value of home by having a shower. Doofusaurus will have his own bathroom to shower in. House guests will no longer have to go through bedrooms to use the toilet. There might even be enough space for a hidden litterpan. Might be possible to just put up shower curtains on long tension rods instead of having to put up walls for shower. Might be able to maintain vent locations and have less alteration to plumbing. Affords a little more privacy for toilet area.
Cons: More expensive and will require a lot of modification to the floor and plumbing. Might require vent changes in attic if ventilight and ceiling fan are swapped. Shower is directly under wiring for ceiling fan so the light would have to be relocated. Would have to walk through the shower to get to the toilet. Might be a tight squeeze depending on how the shower is constructed. If tension rods are used they could fall down unless there is something under them. No support of someone falls. Dryer duct will have to go through the wall into the bathroom (unless I can find a way to route it through the space in the exterior wall, but I doubt it). Vanity might have to be bumped forward or cut because of position of existing pipes.
Note: See Plan F below for alternate laundry layout.

Plan D
1798735_430583540407850_294999607_n.jpg

This involves having the toilet in the same spot as Plan C, but would move the vanity to the north wall of the new bathroom/former laundry room. For water supply I think there are two options:
a) Use hot/cold water supply that previously served shower for vanity and continue to use the laundry water supply for washer (just turn faucets to face the other direction)
b) Use the water supplies formerly for the washer for the vanity and use the former shower supplies for the washer.
I'm also trying to think of options for the sides of the shower (if we put any up at all). I was considering a sheet of plexiglass but that scratches easily and could break. Another thought would be curtains on a track from the ceiling, but that might get pricey, unless I could figure out how to MacGyver something on the cheap. I would have to move the existing water supply and probably could not use the existing drain from the vanity as I think it would have to be a different size. Anyone know?
Pros: Toilet still has some privacy. Don't have to walk through the shower to get to the toilet. Don't have to worry about the shower spraying the toilet paper. Shower could be used to spray off some laundry if need be. If ventilight is swapped with ceiling fan, it could remain in relatively the same spot. Could allow for longer shower space.
Cons: Less privacy for shower depending on what is used for barriers (assuming any barriers are even used). Might require doing something to the floor to make water go to the drain. Tension rods can't be used unless some sort of structure (albeit small support column or wall) is erected. Might be a tight squeeze to get between shower and vanity IF some sort of covering is used for shower. If not covering is used then people might have to walk on wet floor to get to the toilet. So floor would have to be non-slip but still easy to clean.
Note: See Plan F below for alternate laundry layout.

Plan E
1546082_430583570407847_1109645291_n.jpg

This one requires more changes I think. It involves moving the shower up against the east wall and bumping the toilet over to the western part of the north wall.
Pros: Toilet can be accessed easily. Don't have to walk through shower to get to toilet and floor is more likely to be dry. Vanity can use existing plumbing in southwest corner. Seems to be plenty of room to walk through the bathroom. There may even be space for some sort of storage on the south wall just east of the vanity. Duct covering could be used as a shelf.
Cons: Same issues with either having to bump out vanity or modify plumbing. Not much room to have something built around the toilet. Would have to find a way to protect the window from water. Would have to cover the dryer ductwork to keep water out. Would require the most changes in plumbing (as far as I can tell).
Note: See Plan F below for alternate laundry layout.

Plan F
1012037_430583600407844_779250211_n.jpg

Bathroom is the same as Plan E but laundry room is changed. In this version the washer and dryer are turned with their backs to the east wall. The dryer and washer can swap locations. I was thinking the washer needed to be near its original plumbing because I forgot about the hookup for the old bathroom sink. If possible I could use that. I believe I could also have an outlet in the partial wall.
Pros: This one could give more space to the side of the washer and dryer and more space in the hallway when walking through. Depending on which water supply is used, there might even be room for a utility sink in the northeast.
Cons: This might require more changes in electrical. Depending on whether the dryer is to the north or south, the duct might have to be longer (but I do have an 8' duct kit). The bottom portion of the window would be covered up.
The laundry layout in this plan could be used for plans C, D, and E.

An alternative for Plans C, E, and F would be to rotate the vanity clockwise with the back to the west wall and left side to the south wall. This would allow plumbing and the medicine cabinet to be moved inside of that wall instead of poking in to an exterior wall.

The shower could be just open like this:
6924d0b1bc084acdbf7e2fd2336f2395.jpg


Or have a little separation like this:
04112011-2.JPG


Or have a curtain like this:
Door-Less-Shower-With-Penny-Tiles.jpg


I got distracted again and forgot what else I was going to mention.

So, what do you guys think?
Which solution would be the best (but still not cost too much)?
Would making the entire thing a wet room be more expensive?
Tile is not an option so what flooring could be used?

Any other suggestions/comments?
 
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One more idea I just thought of:
Plan G
1625540_430667337066137_12306691_n.jpg

Similar to plan A only turning the existing bathroom into a wetroom with a floor drain and waterproofing everything.
Pros: No walls would have to be demolished. Toilet and shower would just be moved over on their respective walls. Open shower would allow move space for movement. Less expensive than many of the other options.
Cons: Everything would have to be waterproofed and would risk toilet paper getting wet unless there is some sort of curtain. Still rather cramped and not really ideal. Flooring choice might be tricky since tile is not an option. Ventilight would need to be moved if not waterproof or safe to have that close to the showerhead. Existing wall light would have to go since I don't think it is even rated for a bathroom and could not handle the moisture. Might need to install a threshold to keep water from running out of the bathroom if anything clogs. Doesn't improve laundry situation.

I was somewhat inspired by this image of a wetroom
wet-room-1.jpg


And this one because of the floor drain
0c38e7568ab84951e1abcb5c1a381924.jpg


Plan G2 would use the same bathroom layout but incorporate the laundry layout from Plan B.

Oh, here is a better picture of the Euro style vanity
1796448_430097873789750_1835064066_n.jpg


I wish I had the right attachment for my drill press to create the bullseye rosettes. I also wish I knew how to do the fluting.
 
An addendum: I went back and looked at the light fixture above the medicine cabinet. It was not plugged in to an outlet. It is hard wired from the attic but it has one power outlet on it. I think its only a 2 prong outlet.

My mother actually seemed to like Plan G as an option. I wish I could sell her on one of the other plans that gives a larger bathroom and easier access to the laundry, but any change that will make that bathroom functional is a plus.
 
sorry but who are you talking to here? You have so much information and your jumping topics so frequent, I don't even know what your after.

Either way you have a big job ahead of you. Sounds like you have it figured out.
 
sorry but who are you talking to here? You have so much information and your jumping topics so frequent, I don't even know what your after.

Either way you have a big job ahead of you. Sounds like you have it figured out.

LOL. Sorry about that. I'm sort a sort of stream-of-consciousness poster. I had to compile all the info in a notepad before posting because it took so long.

I'm pretty much hoping that someone can wade through the word jumble and give some suggestions. Maybe say if something is a bad idea or what they think is the most efficient use of space.

I'm hoping someone with experience in renovating might weigh in.

I wish I did have it all figured out.

Thank you for replying!
 
So I got bored and started trying to do sketches. I did some craptastic not-to-scale rough sketches.

The first one shows how I believe the current DWV is for the bathroom.
1958417_10151962091855168_542829431_n.jpg


I don't know where/how the laundry ties in (or if it is even tied in at all).


If I can swap laundry and bathroom I was hoping to have enough space to do this:
1888472_10151962091870168_980167726_n.jpg


Here is an approximation of it in Sims 3
10009316_10151962091890168_1403369483_n.jpg


Now, I'm not sure about the way the plumbing would have to tie in to the DWV system. If the pipes are all the right size could I just have things go in the new order? Or would I have to change it?

Would I have to do something like this?
1888551_10151962091865168_945142465_n.jpg


I don't know enough about the venting rules yet to know how it would have to go.
 
The venting must be as big as the principal drain pipe.. For example,principal drain pipe is 12.5 cm, the venting must be 12.5.. (sorry but I don't know the USA size.. I think 4" but I'm not sure) you must keep the venting like latest outlet.. Near the toilet is better.. After, you bring the venting over the roof.. You can let open.. In this way when raining, the water goes inside, and keeps clean pipe..
 
The code I work under only requires one 2" vent per dwelling, and the vent pipe must be at least 1/2 the size of the drain that it serves.

You need to come off of the side of the pipe heading to the toilet to tie in the shower, and put a vent on that line.
 
Thank god my state requires ALL plumbing be done by licenses plumbers and that they must pull proper permits and proof of insurance. It's a shame that ALL states don't follow. This is plumbers work and our way of making a living. When you have Joe homeowner doing whatever the guy at HD/Lowes said id OK. I will not give any help / info to anybody that is doing plumbing work that is not a Plumber/ Gasfitter. Remember THE PLUMBER protects the Health of the Nation. Let's take back our profession from the people that are not Licensed to do such work, remembers it's your lively hood that your taking away from your selfs to help these people out. That's my rant of the day.
Regards
Chris


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Phishfood, am I correct that I am not able to just run the line straight back from the shower and have it hook to the line before the vent?
10001422_451682854964585_1223306156_n.jpg


I'm trying to picture what you are describing, but I'm not certain that I'm visualizing it right.

Did you mean something like this?
1175218_451694844963386_1280585166_n.jpg


Plumdrum, I do intend to get all of the proper permits and hire a licensed professional. I just want to know if the changes I want to make are feasible and know what the right way for it to be done is so I don't start a project that is not do-able. Also, since I have slim pickings when it comes to plumbers (or any contractors) around here I don't know how reliable the work will be. I want to know that it is being done properly so I need to know what is acceptable and what is not.
 
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Thank god my state requires ALL plumbing be done by licenses plumbers and that they must pull proper permits and proof of insurance. It's a shame that ALL states don't follow. This is plumbers work and our way of making a living. When you have Joe homeowner doing whatever the guy at HD/Lowes said id OK. I will not give any help / info to anybody that is doing plumbing work that is not a Plumber/ Gasfitter. Remember THE PLUMBER protects the Health of the Nation. Let's take back our profession from the people that are not Licensed to do such work, remembers it's your lively hood that your taking away from your selfs to help these people out. That's my rant of the day.
Regards
Chris


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Curious what state you live in that it is illegal for a homeowner to fix his leaky sink or unplug his own toilet? Even all the way to new construction that mentality doesn't make sense. If a person installs everything per code and it is signed off by an inspector that is all that matters. People have been building their own homes for generations now.

I have not met any single contractor that is not willing to help out the average person and guide them through their project.

Also this site and all the plumbers that log in daily and donate their time and knowledge do it to help the average person with their projects.
 
The Commonwealth of Massachusetts. In this state the Only 2 things an unlicensed individual can perform is clear a blockage and change washers. That's the way it should be, protect your job and keep YOUR lively hood, not to mention the health and safety concerns that could result from poor/improper installations of plumbing/gas work.i can remember a time before the big box stores came into this state that NO HOMEOWNERS could buy Plumbing Supply's from supply houses. You want to start trickle down economics, start by keeping people TRAINED and LICENSED doing the professions they are supposed to be doing so THEY can provide for their family's and go out and spend money at the place that Joe homeowner works so he can save his job. I don't mind answering a question about repairing a faucet or clearing a drain but I refuse to help with plumbing/gas installations. Maybe I'm on the wrong site.
Regards:
Chris


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Very interesting this discussion.. I feel to write because maybe the reason is in the middle.. I agree with Chris when says that we are here for try helping users, when it's possible.. And I think like he, when he say that is important to put our knowledges for all.. But also plumbdrum has right to say his opinion, he is saying truth, expecially in this period, and in the period that will come, we need preserve our job.. Too much times undervalued.. This is only my opinion.. Every opinion it is like a builder for the knowledge.. Well done..
 
The Commonwealth of Massachusetts. In this state the Only 2 things an unlicensed individual can perform is clear a blockage and change washers. That's the way it should be, protect your job and keep YOUR lively hood, not to mention the health and safety concerns that could result from poor/improper installations of plumbing/gas work.i can remember a time before the big box stores came into this state that NO HOMEOWNERS could buy Plumbing Supply's from supply houses. You want to start trickle down economics, start by keeping people TRAINED and LICENSED doing the professions they are supposed to be doing so THEY can provide for their family's and go out and spend money at the place that Joe homeowner works so he can save his job. I don't mind answering a question about repairing a faucet or clearing a drain but I refuse to help with plumbing/gas installations. Maybe I'm on the wrong site.
Regards:
Chris


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Do you guys out there have a problem finding work? Around here in CA many many people do their own work and I have not noticed any fall in business because of this. I understand where you are coming from with wanting to keep the work for licensed contractors but I have to see it from the homeowner side as well, they have been doing their own work much longer than licensing has even been around and that is why we have codes to go by and inspections.
 
I don't work in the field anymore, I'm a Full Time Plumbing and Gas Inspector, but there is plenty of work in MA. That being said, I get plenty of investigations that I have to do inspections on and it's scary some of the jobs that I walk in on. This is why are State has 1 of the strictest codes in the country. I'm know there is a lot of jobs that slip through the cracks with no permits or inspections , I just hope the people performing such work don't have any health/ safety violations or mishaps. Good Luck with your insurance company. I'm sorry some of you don't feel the same way but myself and other licensed plumbers/gas fitters in this state worked hard to pass a test and keep up with continuing education to let someone else perform the work that WE as LICENSES PROFESSIONAlS should be doing. PROTECT your PROFESSION and the safety of others.


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I understand what you are saying about shoddy work but that is going to continue no matter what is required, I feel that it in places like where you are people are probably more likely to do shoddy work because it is against the law and for whatever reason whether it be the money or something else they do not hire a professional and try more stuff themselves, then when they can not go buy the proper fittings and parts they rig stuff together. Not saying that is what is happening but I bet it adds to the already ongoing problem.

I am a licensed contractor myself and do agree that we should be doing the work but at the same time we don't have any right to do the work.
 
I understand what you are saying about shoddy work but that is going to continue no matter what is required, I feel that it in places like where you are people are probably more likely to do shoddy work because it is against the law and for whatever reason whether it be the money or something else they do not hire a professional and try more stuff themselves, then when they can not go buy the proper fittings and parts they rig stuff together. Not saying that is what is happening but I bet it adds to the already ongoing problem.

I am a licensed contractor myself and do agree that we should be doing the work but at the same time we don't have any right to do the work.


Well things are different here and for the most part people follow the rules, and if they don't someday I may be in their home/ business and find violations and there are ways for us as inspectors to have the plumber on site make corrections to work that he may not have been on the job for. In our code it's states the Plumber/Gasfitter must survey the job for possible safety and health violations. I can see on this site I may not have a lot of allies, but I am very passionate about my trade/craft and will do all that is my powers to maintain my duties in this state to which I am grateful that our plumbing board has set such a high standard . If anybody can do their own plumbing and gas in other states that is a scary thought in my opinion and that's all I have in this case is my opinion.


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