kohler toilet repair

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laura78

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I have an older model Kohler angle toilet. I purchased a fluidmaster universal toilet repair kit and replaced all of the parts inside the tank. now the toilet just doesn't flush right. It flushes but the tank doesn't fill back up until you hit flush handle a second time. Problem with how it was installed or is the kit just not compatible with my toilet?
 
It's possible your Fluidmaster kit is defective. A picture of the insides of your toilet tank would help us help you better.
 
Based on the stained water line in your tank, you need to remove the Fluidmaster valve and unscrew it to raise the height. It appears to be a few inches too low, causing you to have less than the needed water in your tank to operate correctly.
 
Thank you so much for the advice :) I will give it a try!
 
You do have some adjustment on the black valve, which might help you a bit. Seeing only a downshot pic of the tank, it is hard to tell how much adjustment is really needed. There is an "X" which holds a Phillips screwdriver perfectly and by twisting it, you might gain an inch or so without removing and expanding the valve. I'm just throwing this out in case you are reluctant in removing and expanding the Fluidmaster valve.
 
The fill valve you have is the fluid master 400LSR. That thing is a bear to adjust. There is a second chain that prevents the toilet from filling if the flapper should hang up. If not adjusted correctly you will have the problem that you are describing. You can try reading the instructions and get the correct adjustments, but my advice would be to remove it and install the standard fluid master 400. The flapper and flush valve can stay.
 
The very top of the fill valve (the one with the black cap on it that has the float) should be just barely under the top of the open tank. Place a ruler across the top of the tank to verify. Once you have it properly set, measure from the bottom of the tank to the critical line on the fill valve. The top of the flush valve (the one with the black plastic tube open at the top with the flapper on it) should be 1 inch below this line. Once you have the water level properly set, the water level of the full tank should be 1/2 an inch below the top of the flush valve. Use a small pipe cutter if you need to shorten it.

Using the example of the three tank bolts being at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock, you should install the flush valve between 12 and 4 instead of 8 and 12. Also shorten the rubber fill tube to where it has about an inch of play in it.

Lastly, be sure to set the roller on the blue adjuster to where the bowl stops filling up and is full right when the tank stops filling. Somewhere between settings 6 to 8 should be it. This will save you several hundred gallons of water and money over the course of a year.

Here is a picture of one I just finished:

IMAG0076.jpg
 
The very top of the fill valve (the one with the black cap on it that has the float) should be just barely under the top of the open tank. Place a ruler across the top of the tank to verify. Once you have it properly set, measure from the bottom of the tank to the critical line on the fill valve. The top of the flush valve (the one with the black plastic tube open at the top with the flapper on it) should be 1 inch below this line. Once you have the water level properly set, the water level of the full tank should be 1/2 an inch below the top of the flush valve. Use a small pipe cutter if you need to shorten it.

Using the example of the three tank bolts being at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock, you should install the flush valve between 12 and 4 instead of 8 and 12. Also shorten the rubber fill tube to where it has about an inch of play in it.

Lastly, be sure to set the roller on the blue adjuster to where the bowl stops filling up and is full right when the tank stops filling. Somewhere between settings 6 to 8 should be it. This will save you several hundred gallons of water and money over the course of a year.

Here is a picture of one I just finished:

Yours is not the same as the one in question. The one in question has a second chain link to the flapper.
 
Yours is not the same as the one in question. The one in question has a second chain link to the flapper.

The black plastic chain on the flapper should be long enough. All the professional install videos show the flush valve installed at 12 o'clock for two-bolt tanks and at 2 o'clock for three-bolt tanks.

If you are talking about the Leak Guard, it is on the fill valve:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i43fcE1MrbI[/ame]
 
What I was referring to is the question that was asked from the first post on this topic.

Me too.

Problem with how it was installed or is the kit just not compatible with my toilet?

And I answered that her installation needed correction and explained how to do it to which you said of the picture I shared:

Yours is not the same as the one in question. The one in question has a second chain link to the flapper.

Which I showed and said made no difference :) Here are some Fluidmaster directions showing the proper position of the flush valve at 2 o'clock (there are no directions online for the 404LGR kit she bought):

http://www.fluidmaster.com/product_docs/507a_installation_instructions_english.pdf

http://www.fluidmaster.com/product_docs/400akr_installation_instructions_english.pdf

Anyway she needs to raise the fill valve, turn the flush valve to 2 o'clock instead of 10 o'clock, possibly shorten the plastic overflow tube of the flush valve, shorten the fill tube going to the flush valve, and adjust the blue plastic fill tube adjuster as I described earlier. The flapper should be adjustable as well so I might also add to make sure the flapper is set at 9 if the flush seems weak. If 9 is too much then try 7 then 5 until the perfect setting is found.
 

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