Bevel PVC before gluing?

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AJay

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I can see the value of removing any sharp burrs inside PVC before gluing, but is there any need to actually bevel the inside edge (on the edge facing upstream)?

It was recommended to me by the master plumber at Lowe's and it isn't a big deal to do as I have a Dremel that can do it pretty quick.
 
This is way out of my league but I myself would be concerned about the Dremel making either a sharp, ragged edge or possible going in too deep and creating a weak joint. I can see using a bit of sandpaper to knock off the sharp edges, but would leave it at that point. With this being said, I am also going to wait for the experts to give the opinions that count!
 
I attended a class on PVC pipe installation back in the early 70's. The instructor stated that the "perfect" installation would include beveling the outside of the pipe, to match the bevel inside the fittings where the pipe stops when properly fitted. He also said that if he were a business owner, he would fire us for taking the time to do this. The original intent was to make sure the joint "mated" perfectly, with a smooth glue adhesion. Some brands of PVC fittings changed to flat "stops" inside the fitting instead of the beveled stops. If you think about it, there is no way to prevent glue from piling up at the inside of the joint, so all the filing or grinding are just time wasting steps. No need to do any prep on the pipe or fitting except priming , applying glue and making sure the joint is all the way together.
 
havasu brought up a great point...you have more of a chance of causing a pipe to fail by trying to shape it with a dremel.

The reason to get rid of the sharp burs is to prevent paper from catching on it and and causing a back-up, and also to help make a tight seal.

I have never used a dremel to connect PVC and have never seen nor heard of anyone doing it. I've also gotten some interesting info at Lowe's over the years...sometimes you get good insight, other times you just get someones 'habit' whether it is necessary or not.
 
After you've worked in the trades for 30 years and you knees and back are shot you'll be quite happy to work at Lowe's or Home depot.
 
I've considered picking up a job at Lowe's, just to try to help people as much as I can. I find myself going there many times a week just to peruse the aisle, and although I don't work there, I'm always happy to help anyone who asks for it.
 
The reason why you bevel the out side end of the pipe.
When the pipe is cut off square it leaves a sharp edge that can actually scrap off the glue applied to the inside of the joint, Like a squeegee.
The bevel allows the pipe to push over the glue with out scrapping it off and forcing it into the gap between the fitting and the pipe.
Then a 1/4 turn twist to insure a good even spread around the Joint.
Then wipe off all excess glue.
The larger the pipe the more important it is to bevel it.
1/2" & 3/4" irrigation sprinkler pipe I usually don't bother with it.
Nor do I bother with it on drain fitting.
But I on high pressure ( 150 psi ) I always bevel the pipe.
 
After you've worked in the trades for 30 years and you knees and back are shot you'll be quite happy to work at Lowe's or Home depot.

Not really. Those guys are on there feet all day.
I know a guy that taught me a lot about plumbing that went to work 4 HD.
Thought he was going to move up into management so he transferred to Hemet,CA store.
That was about 10 yrs ago. Well I just heard that he was looking for work. Guess that didn't work out.
My niece got fired from HD just before here 10 yr because they didn't want to have to dole the big 10 yr bonus that they pay.
They drummed some lame excuse
 
Don't slither anywhere! Anytime someone fails to read a post properly, it makes me feel better for all my incorrect input!
 
I did it again. Will from OK wrote joist and I read Joint and then Ajay made a funny.
 
He was asking about beveling the inside edge.

Yeah... I did. But I didn't mean to confine the question to the inside edge as D's response about the outer edge of the inner pipe makes sense.

And I think I'll go fire up the Dremel again and start grinding!! Actually, the end I use is a small sanding drum. It takes a couple of min to do each joint and gets PVC dust everythere. But as it doesn't cut real fast it is impossible to grind off too much and create a weak point unless you fall asleep during the process.

But from some of the other responses it is clear no self-respecting plumber would be caught dead with a Dremel. Clearly any such beveling should be done with a chain-saw, or better yet, a back-hoe. :D
 
Couldn't the use of some sandpaper of the outside edge of the cut pieces accomplish the same, without the dust?
 
I actually spent some time on Google looking for a powered tool I saw once for sanding the outside edge of PVC. It attached to a drill and looked similar to a hole saw. You would shove in the raw edge of the pipe and it would cut the edge properly.
 
OMG!!! And all this came from beveling some pvc pipe.....lol.... This is why I hang around here.
 
I remove burrs from both the inside and the outside of drain pipe. I bevel the outside of pressure pipe starting at 2 inch and up. I bevel 8 inch and above drain pipe. I don't bevel the inside of any pipe.
 

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