Septic drain field Shocking

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Marv

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Marinette, WI
I have a 40 + old tank. May have high ground water level. Had the tank pumped twice. Now ready to pump a 3rd time in roughly 3 months. When the tank was over full, it definitely pushed sewage into the drain field, 3 times. Wondering if it would be worth Shocking the drain field? Both to help clean it out and also eat away at any mat that may have formed below and to the sides of the drain field piping. I measure the water level in the breather pipe morning and night. Level may drop .5 - 1.5 over night, so pretty slow.
Does the shocking process really work?
Should I shock it after I pump and let sit?
Thanks for your help.
Marv
 
You can also have the lines water jetted, at least the lines that can be accessed.

They might have to dig to get into the laterals.
 
When you had them pumped, did anyone inspect your system for problems?
 
When you had them pumped, did anyone inspect your system for problems?
Pumper looked and felt it was high ground water the first time pumped.
2nd time was dark and sludge at the end of the breather. Breather has been the same since.
Thus I want to know more about shocking. I did dump 1500 in Robic down a drain field clean out. Then started reading about shocking? Want to learn how efficient and how fast a shock works.
Any info is welcome!
Thanks
 
Make sure you are diverting any surface run off or gutter discharge away from the system, if possible.
 
Pumper looked and felt it was high ground water the first time pumped.
2nd time was dark and sludge at the end of the breather . Breather has been the same since.
Thus I want to know more about shocking. I did dump 1500 in Robic down a drain field clean out. Then started reading about shocking? Want to learn how efficient and how fast a shock works.
Any info is welcome!
Thanks

I find that on 90% of the calls I get after a pumped tank, the problem is sludge in the baffle

your tank has a layer of sludge floating on top of the water. the baffle, is a tee with a pipe that sticks through the sludge and only lets water drain out

when the tank is pumped out, the sludge level drops below the baffle
as you use the tank, the sludge rises, it is a gamble whether it will plug the baffle or not

6th grade picture

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I find that on 90% of the calls I get after a pumped tank, the problem is sludge in the baffle

your tank has a layer of sludge floating on top of the water. the baffle, is a tee with a pipe that sticks through the sludge and only lets water drain out

when the tank is pumped out, the sludge level drops below the baffle
as you use the tank, the sludge rises, it is a gamble whether it will plug the baffle or not

6th grade picture

View attachment 25719
Very interesting information.
 
Were you there at the installation? If not, after 40+ years, it's a total guess as to how the tank was designed, how the drain field was designed and as to what is actually going on down there.

Wouldn't most septic system companies suggest after nearly fifty years, maybe that system has absorbed all the waste it can handle and perhaps it's time for another one?

jack vines
 
Wouldn't most septic system companies suggest after nearly fifty years, maybe that system has absorbed all the waste it can handle and perhaps it's time for another one?

jack vines
Yes, I think most companies WOULD suggest this. Nothing wrong with more cash in their pockets on your dime. Maybe an independent review of the system by someone that does not install them would be the way to go. But back to the original question.... Not sure about 'Shocking', I've always heard that adding things to the tank never works. But if you have a system that has problems, it won't hurt trying. Unfortunately no direct knowledge about this.
 
Not sure about 'Shocking', I've always heard that adding things to the tank never works.
You sort of answered your own question.

This is akin to the myriad threads here asking what magic fluid homeowners should pour down the sink/toilet to clear a blocked drain. As most know here, those just usually make the plumber's work more difficult when he has to deal with the problem.

FWIW, I just had to have a 200' waste line from the house to the street replaced via the 'burst-and-pull' system. Turns out, my original line, installed fifty years back, was the infamous 'Orangeburg" pipe and we were lucky it lasted as long as it did. Most of that cheap crap failed in fewer years of use.

There's no way to know how large, how well designed and how well maintained the OPs septic system. You say maybe chemicals would do something positive, but this is a plumbing forum and there aren't many professional testimonials thus far advocating the magic chemicals.

jack vines
 
I was told by a friend(who is an engineer with these systems) that you should never add anything to your septic tanks... EVER!
 
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