Safe pressure setting for tank pressure switch?

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JMG32

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Fairly recent convert from city water. Having low water pressure in our new home (2015 construction). Have read a bit online about increasing the pressure by the pressure switch on the tank. Ours was turning on at 38 psi and turning off at 58 psi.

What’s a safe pressure to increase it to? Have online read anywhere from 35 psi (too low) to 100 psi (seems way too high).

Don’t want to blow my pipes up.
 
Last edited:
With a two story house I usually go up to 50/70 on the switch. But even that means sometimes you have 70 and sometimes only 50 PSI. Adding a CSV will give you much stronger 60 PSI constant pressure and even works with a much smaller pressure tank.

 
Thanks!

I bumped it up to 50/70. Didn’t make much of a difference for water pressure in our shower upstairs. It’s a 2 story home with finished basement (3 levels). Shower is on the top floor so maybe it’s just too far away to get good pressure?

Is a 60/80 setting way too high for the pipes and fixtures?
 
There might be a restriction that is cutting down on the flow rate of your water.
Pressure and flow rate are separate issues, as we see on this forum all the time.

Your pipes might have good pressure, but not enough water can pass through to maintain a vigorous shower.
A water softener is a common tight spot.
It usually has a tiny orifice and screen that can get clogged up, check the manual or post a pic of exact model on here.
Water filters also restrict flow rate.

Your water softener, water filter, water heater valves, various in-line zone valves, all can be clogged or partially closed.

Your shower valve or cartridge might be clogged with minerals also.
 
Jeff Handy said:
There might be a restriction that is cutting down on the flow rate of your water.
Pressure and flow rate are separate issues, as we see on this forum all the time.

Your pipes might have good pressure, but not enough water can pass through to maintain a vigorous shower.
A water softener is a common tight spot.
It usually has a tiny orifice and screen that can get clogged up, check the manual or post a pic of exact model on here.
Water filters also restrict flow rate.

Your water softener, water filter, water heater valves, various in-line zone valves, all can be clogged or partially closed.

Your shower valve or cartridge might be clogged with minerals also.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.

We do not currently have a softener or filter installed.

This all came about b/c I recently noticed several of the holes in our shower heads were clogged. I soaked them with vinegar to break up the mineral deposits. Once they were all cleaned and opened up, the pressure of the water coming out dropped significantly.
 
That does not make sense.

There is usually a little flow restrictor in the shower head, in the end by the shower arm or in the knuckle that allows it to be aimed.
They get full of minerals too.
And they are government mandated to be there, to make the shower head use less water.
Which leads to a wimpy shower output.

You can usually locate the tight spot of a tiny plastic and/or rubber orifice.
Sometimes you can just tease out a little rubber o ring to open up the flow rate.
Sometimes you have to remove a tiny plastic piece, or even drill a small hole through it if it needs to stay there to hold things in place.

You could try buying a new shower head and see if that gets your shower flowing well again.
Then use the package info to go to Google to find where its flow restrictor is, so you know how to remove it or clean it now or as needed in future.

If your shower heads are plugging up in just three years, you probably need a whole house sediment filter at the very least, and maybe a softener also.

You can have your water tested locally, or send a bottle to a testing service, to check for hardness level.
 
Jeff Handy said:
That does not make sense.

There is usually a little flow restrictor in the shower head, in the end by the shower arm or in the knuckle that allows it to be aimed.
They get full of minerals too.
And they are government mandated to be there, to make the shower head use less water.
Which leads to a wimpy shower output.

You can usually locate the tight spot of a tiny plastic and/or rubber orifice.
Sometimes you can just tease out a little rubber o ring to open up the flow rate.
Sometimes you have to remove a tiny plastic piece, or even drill a small hole through it if it needs to stay there to hold things in place.

You could try buying a new shower head and see if that gets your shower flowing well again.
Then use the package info to go to Google to find where its flow restrictor is, so you know how to remove it or clean it now or as needed in future.

If your shower heads are plugging up in just three years, you probably need a whole house sediment filter at the very least, and maybe a softener also.

You can have your water tested locally, or send a bottle to a testing service, to check for hardness level.
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes, we are planning on having a softener and carbon filter installed. Have had a couple different companies out to give estimates for that.

Is increasing the pressure switch beyond 50/70 not advisable?
 
Not advisable, you can blow out a pipe or a connection inside the walls, causing massive flood damage.
Probably safe to go up a little higher, but your well pump has to work harder, and the tank bladder will be under higher stress.

Get a new shower head, not a cheapo one, and not a big rain shower type which always have less forceful spray.
If a high quality new shower head gives a vigorous shower, then your old shower heads are clogged or restricted inside somewhere.

A carbon aka activated charcoal filter will help with taste and sediment, but is usually pretty tight and might cut down your flow rate too much.
A sediment filter is usually less restrictive.
It is common to have both, if the water tastes bad.
Your water heater anode rod also might be causing bad taste and smell, like rotten eggs.
 
Jeff Handy said:
Not advisable, you can blow out a pipe or a connection inside the walls, causing massive flood damage.
Probably safe to go up a little higher, but your well pump has to work harder, and the tank bladder will be under higher stress.

Get a new shower head, not a cheapo one, and not a big rain shower type which always have less forceful spray.
If a high quality new shower head gives a vigorous shower, then your old shower heads are clogged or restricted inside somewhere.

A carbon aka activated charcoal filter will help with taste and sediment, but is usually pretty tight and might cut down your flow rate too much.
A sediment filter is usually less restrictive.
It is common to have both, if the water tastes bad.
Your water heater anode rod also might be causing bad taste and smell, like rotten eggs.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll just keep the pressure switch at 50/70.

We have a tankless water heater, which as I understand don't have an anode rod, correct?

One of the guys who was here to test our water said he uses carbon filters that won't impact the flow rate. Beats me.

Is there a way to increase flow rate with a well?

I suppose you just have to accept some inconveniences with well water.
 
Tankless usually have screens or filters that need at least annual maintenance, and also flushing, cleaning, descaling, or else the heat exchanger gets full of minerals, and also flow rate can drop.

I think some need twice a year cleaning.

Check your manual, or post a pic of the info plate.
 
Jeff Handy said:
Tankless usually have screens or filters that need at least annual maintenance, and also flushing, cleaning, descaling, or else the heat exchanger gets full of minerals, and also flow rate can drop.

I think some need twice a year cleaning.

Check your manual, or post a pic of the info plate.
Click to expand...

it’s a Noritz

CCAEBF4E-20FD-4C97-93AA-49410D7FFEC5.jpeg
 
Adding a filter or softener will cause another 10 PSI loss of pressure. Like has been said, removing the flow restrictor in the shower head is a good place to start. I also find a lot of 1/2" pex pipe going to showers, and the inserts make it like 1/4" pipe. Because of the inserts I would use at least one size larger pex than any other pipe.

If your pump can easily build to 80 and shut off, you can go up to 60/80. As long as the pump can build to 80 and shut off, the higher pressure is actually easier on the pump. Higher pressure causes the pump to produce less GPM, which makes the amps drop and the motor runs cooler. It is counter intuitive but just how pumps work. However, even with 60/80 you will be at 60 for long periods of time. Again, a CSV1A set at 70 PSI constant will make shower pressure much stronger than when the pump is cycling on/of between 60 and 80 over and over.
 
I bought 2 of these and they have some serious pressure. They are cheap and work great. I'm sure there are better made ones but I will wait for these to die before replacing them.
1589211113729.png1589211113729.png
 
JMG32 said:
Thanks, yes, we are planning on having a softener and carbon filter installed. Have had a couple different companies out to give estimates for that.

Is increasing the pressure switch beyond 50/70 not advisable?
Click to expand...
The other thing about raising the pressure is, it causes the pump to work harder. It takes much more work to go from 50 to 70 than it does to go from 30 to 50. That costs more in electricity and wear and tear. Sometimes if you have an old pump, it may never get to 70 and will run continuously, with a big impact on the electric bill. So when you do that, check how long it takes to get up all that pressure.
 
Leave the pressure alone and try a new shower head. My wife says these cheapo shower heads I suggested hurt...
 
Valveman said:
Adding a filter or softener will cause another 10 PSI loss of pressure. Like has been said, removing the flow restrictor in the shower head is a good place to start. I also find a lot of 1/2" pex pipe going to showers, and the inserts make it like 1/4" pipe. Because of the inserts I would use at least one size larger pex than any other pipe.

If your pump can easily build to 80 and shut off, you can go up to 60/80. As long as the pump can build to 80 and shut off, the higher pressure is actually easier on the pump. Higher pressure causes the pump to produce less GPM, which makes the amps drop and the motor runs cooler. It is counter intuitive but just how pumps work. However, even with 60/80 you will be at 60 for long periods of time. Again, a CSV1A set at 70 PSI constant will make shower pressure much stronger than when the pump is cycling on/of between 60 and 80 over and over.
Click to expand...

I’ll give the shower heads a check for the flow restrictor.

As far as the pump, how do I tell if it can easily build to 80. It’s taking a few seconds to build from 50 to 70. It’s a well x trol tank, WX203. Label on the front says it’s maximum working pressure is 150 psi.

I’ve read different things online about a maximum safe pressure for pipes and fixtures. As the previous poster on here said 80 psi could blow out pipes.

D15C4EF6-7010-43DD-BF8E-4F16B0E56297.jpeg
 
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