Capping off an ABS drain connector 2 1/4" OD

[Trag]

Previous owner cut off a 2" ABS drain pipe right flush with a "T" connector. Does an odd size 2 1/4" ID end cap exist that can go over the outside of the connector? If not what would be the best way to seal it up?

 

[frodo]

cut and chisel the pipe out of the fitting
then glue a plug into the fitting

 

[Diehard]

Are you sure it's a 2" pipe?
A 2" pipe I.D. is 2.072"
The O.D. is 2.375 (2-3/8")
So if you're talking about a Tee fitting and it's Hub OD is 2 1/4", it's likely that it's a 1 1/2" tee.
In any case, the ID of a cap would be the OD of a pipe. Doubt there is a 2 1/4" based on these standard dimensions.

There are ways of getting out that piece of pipe left in the tee.
One is a special drill called a socket saver. Here's a link to a 1-1/2" but they have other sizes. You would of course have to confirm your actual pipe size.
https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-J44-150-Socket-Saver/dp/B000HE9YS8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1-1/2-Inch+Socket+Saver&qid=1573424592&s=hi&sr=1-4

If in doubt of size, go to a store that has them and measure the fitting diameters there.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You can get a special reaming drill bit designed just for that.

It reams out the walls of the old pipe inside the socket of the fitting, so you can install anything you want in there, just like it had never had anything glued in it before.

EDIT Just saw that Diehard already mentioned this method.

 

[Diehard]

Just saw frodo's response above.(Took me a long time to collect the info and post it.)
That's another way and they show various methods of how to best do that.
Depends on whether you plan on ever being able to reuse that joint, as you will likely ruin it if not done correctly.

 

[Diehard]

You can get a special reaming drill bit designed just for that.

It reams out the walls of the old pipe inside the socket of the fitting, so you can install anything you want in there, just like it had never had anything glued in it before.

You mean like the one I provided a link to in post #3?

 

[Jeff Handy]

Also, a black rubber pipe cap is pretty stretchy, you might be able to coax one over the socket of the tee, then seal it with the provided clamp.

Maybe lubricate the rubber with some dish soap first.

EDIT They actually are not rubber, they are flexible pvc.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Diehard, you posted that while I was writing my post, sorry we overlapped.

 

[frodo]

The ram bit you guys are talking about is a 35 doller bit for 1.5'' pipe
just say'n a guy might not want to fork out that much for one use


also might want to check the code book..i know for a fact, a jim cap [rubber cap] is not allowed as a permanent cap
jim caps are actually test caps. upc says had caps only. i dunno what the ipc says

 

[Diehard]

Diehard, you posted that while I was writing my post, sorry we overlapped.

Happens all the time to me.

 

[Diehard]

Throw a test plug in there while you're researching it. Solved!

 

[Jeff Handy]

Buying a reaming bit for $35.00 is probably about $150.00 cheaper than hiring a plumber to fix that problem.

When he’s done, put it on eBay or Craigslist, gets at least half his money back.

It’s better than banging on his drain pipes with a hammer and chisel, and very likely breaking something else, unless he has experience at that technique.

And unbanded Fernco style fittings can probably be found in nearly every home in America.
This sounds like a DWV situation here, so there is no real pressure being put on the rubber.

For example, unbanded “rubber” couplings are frequently found in sump pump discharge lines inside the house, and they are experiencing fairly high water pressure.
When I install sump pumps, I usually install Zoeller check valves, which rely on similar rubber couplings with hose clamps.

I have never heard of a home inspection or building inspection that failed because the sump pump had these fittings, in Illinois where I live.
So if they are illegal, I think they must get “winked at” as in I see it but no problem.

So a dwv situation should be no problem for the “plumbing police”, who would never see it anyway.

 

[Jeff Handy]

 

[Jeff Handy]

And if you are going to reply that this Fernco pic only shows couplings, not caps, he could use a Fernco coupling, and add a short pipe stub with a cap solvent welded to it.

 

[frodo]

Buying a reaming bit for $35.00 is probably about $150.00 cheaper than hiring a plumber to fix that problem.

When he’s done, put it on eBay or Craigslist, gets at least half his money back.

It’s better than banging on his drain pipes with a hammer and chisel, and very likely breaking something else, unless he has experience at that technique.

And unbanded Fernco style fittings can probably be found in nearly every home in America.
This sounds like a DWV situation here, so there is no real pressure being put on the rubber.

For example, unbanded “rubber” couplings are frequently found in sump pump discharge lines inside the house, and they are experiencing fairly high water pressure.
When I install sump pumps, I usually install Zoeller check valves, which rely on similar rubber couplings with hose clamps.

I have never heard of a home inspection or building inspection that failed because the sump pump had these fittings, in Illinois where I live.
So if they are illegal, I think they must get “winked at” as in I see it but no problem.

So a dwv situation should be no problem for the “plumbing police”, who would never see it anyway.

Their are very legit reasons a un-banded band is not to be used above ground.
If you do not want to learn the correct way.
I will stop trying to inform you of the correct way

 

[Diehard]

I thought the link I had shown had the reaming bit for about $13.

Out of curiosity, where is that "P3003.9.1 Mechanical joints" taken from? OP is from Canada. Is that the code referenced here?

Although not sure why mechanical joints are being brought into the discussion.?