Washer overflows! Help!

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Bought a house. Finally bought a used washer. Hooked it up and it overflows.
Set up looks proper to me from what I've researched but I really don't know much about plumbing or AAV.... 2" drain pipes, p-trap, then AAV (instead of roof ventilation).
Ran a snake, no clogs. Bought a Drain King (bladder that expands and shoots water). Let that go for awhile. Still overflows.

What am I missing? This is how far we've opened up the wall so far.
56596558_2344497162261884_8635793817540231168_n.jpg
 
It looks like the washer drain is 1 1/2'' instead of 2''
and it looks like someone installed a 2'' co in the line
this tells me, they have had trouble with this drain before

i could be wrong on both of these,,pictures are hard to tell sizes


your washer might be pumping out faster than that 1 1/2 can handle
change the tee in the wall and the trap to 2''
make sure the stand pipe is minimum 24'' long
 
It looks like the washer drain is 1 1/2'' instead of 2''
and it looks like someone installed a 2'' co in the line
this tells me, they have had trouble with this drain before

i could be wrong on both of these,,pictures are hard to tell sizes


your washer might be pumping out faster than that 1 1/2 can handle
change the tee in the wall and the trap to 2''
make sure the stand pipe is minimum 24'' long

The pipes are 2". I'm not sure why they put a larger fitting right there at the top where the water drains in but it's 2" on both ends of it.
And I'm not sure what exactly you mean by stand pipe but it is only 18" from the p-trap up to where the laundry hose drains in. So we need to see if it's possible to lower the p-trap to extend the length of the stand pipe (if I'm correct that's what you meant).

If 24" is a minimum, what's the max? I live in Oregon. Not sure if there are regulations on that but figured I'd ask. I have the worst time trying to research these things.
 
42'' is the max

18'' is to short, the washer pumps the water out and overwhelms the stand pipe

That makes complete sense. Thank you.
I haven't went to check IF this is even a possibility yet but if I extend both ends of the ptrap down to a more desirable length, will it drain properly? Or is the journey back up the right side of the p-trap going to pose a problem (and I HAVE to move the T down as well)?
upload_2019-4-12_3-55-13.png
 
That sure looks like a 2" x 1 1/2" reducer coming out of that washer box. Measure the pipe at the box connection and then the pipe after that reducer. Reducing in the direction of flow is not helping the situation.
 
LOL
If it were only that easy
nope,
then the water would back up because of trying to push the water out of the trap

how high is that washer box from the floor?

how long is your washer drain hose?

Damn, nothing can just be simple lol.
The washer box is 57" off the floor. We just purchased a new drain hose and cut it to size since the one that came with the washer was way too short.
 
That sure looks like a 2" x 1 1/2" reducer coming out of that washer box. Measure the pipe at the box connection and then the pipe after that reducer. Reducing in the direction of flow is not helping the situation.

It's a 3" x 2" reducer.
 
Ok, here are my last ditch ideas to avoid having to move the p-trap down or the stand pipe and water lines up even higher and into the cupboards.
Would either an added holding tank tied in after the p-trap or some sort of water proof bladder work?
That way we can use the available space. Let me know if these are shitty ideas lol. Thanx.

upload_2019-4-12_23-52-16.png
 
here is what I would do

cut the pipe off [that is below the tee]
at about 5'' above the floor
install a tee, pointed out of the wall
install a fitting x hub 45 degree bend into the tee
Now your pipe is running parallel with the wall, on the outside of the wall

install the ptrap
install a 6'' pipe into trap then a 22.5 degree fitting, pointed back into the wall
then another 22.5 degree fitting
then hook pipe up to the washer box.

abbade.jpg
 
here is what I would do

cut the pipe off [that is below the tee]
at about 5'' above the floor
install a tee, pointed out of the wall
install a fitting x hub 45 degree bend into the tee
Now your pipe is running parallel with the wall, on the outside of the wall

install the ptrap
install a 6'' pipe into trap then a 22.5 degree fitting, pointed back into the wall
then another 22.5 degree fitting
then hook pipe up to the washer box.

View attachment 20554

Ah the outside of the wall... sneaky.
Thanx for explaining some of the fittings necessary also.
We'll have to tear the rest of the way down the wall on Tuesday and go from there.
 
Measuring circular things messes with my eyes bad.
I assumed because it's over 1-1/2" that it must be 2" but it's looking more like 1-3/4" in my pics.
This has completely f-d with my eyes though so I'll just post pics and let you decide lol.

upload_2019-4-13_17-18-39.png

upload_2019-4-13_17-19-53.png upload_2019-4-13_17-21-4.png
 
us plumbers we use a 2 1/8 bit for 1 1/2 pipe, and a 2 9/16 bit for 2 " pipe. The washer box is 2" pipe without a doubt. If you have a 1 1/2 pipe in the wall with a 57" rise and its overflowing its because its an 1 1/2 pipe. A laundry sink which meets code can be 1 1/2 but when the washer discharges it will accumulate 2-4" of water but wont overflow because its deep. There are a lot of non plumbers out there who do stuff like this. Im sure thats why you have such a big {57"} riser because they were trying to compensate. Sometimes I think im a good plumber now because i have already fixed too many of my mistakes for free over the years. Any other pipes in the area we can look at? you need 2" drain
 
I didn't realize 1-7/8" is OD for 1-1/2" pipe... oops.

Whoever did this job is a real dick.
1-1/2" pipe, 18" stand pipe, 57" off the floor and glued abs to pvc.

We haven't torn the wall out the rest of the way down to the floor yet.
Also haven't been under the house. I'm afraid to find out it's 1-1/2" all the way down.
I'll leave an update when we're able to get to it.
 
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