Sounds like you have it well in hand!
I am assuming that the tub and the sink are in the same area and that they are relative to the same floor. The only thing that I would be concerned about is that the pipe for the drain is only 1.5" when it really needs to be larger. And if you drain it fast, it will affect the sink, just like a stool does. So it is not clear that an additional vent is available as mentioned later. The only reason for making the drain as straight as possible is to avoid all of the work of assembling a bunch of small pieces, possible settling of the pipe on a long run and avoiding plugging due to turbulence. I once had a 1.5" that fed into a 3" and it plugged regularly at that joint.
The tub sounds like a beauty - I suggest building a padded cradle to carry it on and use at least two jacks to lift it: one on each end or on alternate corners (kitty-corner). If you use long 2x4's on edge and crosswise piece between them on each end, they would provide jack points to lift the tub. Build it with a 2x4 underneath of it so that it fits up against the tub. When assembled, the jacks will lift it after only an inch of travel or so as long as the tub walls are angled. The jacks are about $30 each at Harbor Freight or places like that and will easily lift it and roll too. Alternatively, if you can figure some way to get the jack under it, just use ordinary movers' pallets - they have four wheels and one on each end should do it. (I guess I have assumed that the legs are sticking out from the corners so that the 2x4's will go under and that the tub is sloped on sides and ends.)
On the pvc to stand pipe adaptor you said use teflon tape, do i need any sealer or dope on those threads or should tape be good?
When I do it I prefer thread dope, but the preferred method is teflon tape - either should work just fine (this is not pressurized)
For the tub drain to sink drain pipe should i just us a T or is the Y junction better?
The only reason to use a T would be if you cannot stand the length of the sweeping Y. Normally, you would have the tub come down with a larger say 2" pipe and the T with the Y shape going into it downward. Alternatively if they are at the same level and are the same size 1.5", then the Y is almost essential and it should feed toward the stand pipe. The tub drain should be designed as straight as possible and the drain from the sink is secondary to it so the T or Y should have the Y part pointing toward the stand pipe. I believe the T's are made with one straight through and the other (the T) is really a short Y. They Y is there to prevent turbulence that causes plugging.
The stand pipe has a huge vent tube but over in the wall of the sink the sink had a 1.5 galvanized pipe vent that heads up inside the wall,
It wasnt wet so not rusted, do i need the sink vent and should reuse that or is that stand pipe vent enough?
I don't think that you normally would need one, but if one is available, use it if at all possible. It could be that the tub does not have a vent so it could be more important for that reason. If this is the situation, then you could experience the tub sucking the sink's p-trap to get air (even if each has it's own vent this sometimes happens). So use the vent if you possibly can.
If i have a sink vent i assume it connects on top of P trap as close to sink bottom as possible?
The distance from the sink bottom is not the important part - that is for your convenience in cleaning it out. The vent T should be positioned so that the P-trap can drain to it (obviously) and the output of the P-trap goes into the Y down of a T from the vent. Alternatively, the T for the vent could be straight through T from the P-trap towards the tub drain pipe and the vent's Y from above should face towards the direction of the flow - away from the P-trap. The P-trap is supposed to keep sewer gases from escaping into the house through the sink and has to be on the sink side of the vent - that is, vent air must be pulled from the vent, not the P-trap. So I am not sure what you mean by 'on top of ' but I hope this clarifies how to configure it. The vent pipe is like a vertical pipe with several p-traps connected to it. Technically, it becomes a vent pipe after the last one before the access to vent air outside the house, but acts as a drain pipe after the first drain dumps into it. Care must be taken that the vent is as large as the drains it serves - larger if more than one or two and as large as the largest. It is acceptable generally to run a branch vent back to a larger vent pipe and T to it, but it is usually cheaper to go out of the house near the drain location than to make a return run.
Last, on the floor it goes tile then about 3 inchs of two kinds of cement type mud, not hard to beat through, the tile is tougher,
Then a wood floor and the drains are under that wood floor in the space above the first floor ceiling,
So does more "mud" have to be poured where holes are in the bathroom floor or are there other ways to build up that 3 inches,
Im considering tearing all the mud out, seems overkill and added weight,
That stand pipe with toilet on it and hall floor level dictated how high that mud had to be,
But i was thinking why not like use boards to get up high enough then just plywood floor with tile or whatever on it...like other rooms floors are done
That does not sound good - the mud part! When you prepare to put the pipes in place, back them up with the material that is available and used elsewhere in the house for support of plumbing pipes, just make sure that it supports the pipes adequately. When you are convinced that it is all working ok, no leaks and all inspections are done you can button it up. The mud sounds like a local requirement and you might want to check with local authorities on whether or not you need to keep it - I would be inclined to remove it. Depends on why it is there. Somebody else needs to chime in here - I am not familiar with the use of 'mud' - it was probably for the support of the cast iron pipes.
