Hot water heater question

I want to replace the gate wheel valve for the water heater. Do I have to drain the water heater to replace this valve? I installed the valve back in 1997 when I installed a new water heater.

Thanks in advance

No just turn off water to house and drain down a little

I bought a new ball valve, 3/4" copper pipe, and a couple. I drained the water heater a few gallons, turned off the house gate valve, and cut out the bad gate valve. I had to have the city shut off the water to the house because the house gate valve allowed water to trickle.

I soldered one end of the new ball valve to one end of existing copper pipe. I soldered the other end into new pipe. I got good seals on both ends of the valve. I next soldered one end of the couple to the length of pipe going into the new valve. I didn't get a good seal. I soldered the other end of the couple into the existing pipe. I also didn't get a good seal.

I called the city and they turned the water back on. I noticed a leak at the top of the couple. I shut off the water at the house and decided to try again today. I bought a few elbows and couples from Lowe's and tried soldering a couple onto pipe. I couldn't get the solder to flow.

I suspected my Bernzomatic torch with Mapp gas wasn't hot enough to sweat the fittings. I gave up and called plumbing contractors. A father and son came out - I got the impression they were home waiting for the phone to ring - and I showed them what I was trying to do. I showed them the pipe and fittings I assembled back in 1997 but they told me they had a better way.

My way was a 3/4" slip x 3/4 fip fitting, pipe, elbow, pipe, elbow, pipe, valve, pipe, and couple. The 3/4 fip fitting connected to a 3/4 fip x 3/4 mip steel braided flex line.

Their way was a 3/4 fip x 3/4 mip copper flex line, 3/4 slip x 3/4 mip fitting, pipe, elbow, pipe, valve, pipe, and couple.

The father did tell me that I was paying for professionals. I told them the problems I had trying to sweat the fittings and the son told me Mapp gas doesn't get hot enough and that they use acetylene gas.

The whole job took less than 30 minutes and I gladly paid them $190. I allowed them to use any of my parts and they used my couple and long length of pipe.

I tried to do the job myself and came within one solder joint of doing the job myself but I knew something was wrong with the couple to pipe seals.
When I know its time to call professionals, I call them. When I got the two good seals at the new valve, I thought I was on my way. And back in 1997 I was using propane and got good seals. Did the copper change? The new pipe and fittings don't look like the 1997 pipe and fittings.

A professional has his own parts and also should have replaced gate valve to main so you can turn water off without calling city

Don't hire the hacks back again. I am glad your installation is leak free but my teenager sweats pipe better than they did. I would be embarrassed to leave that pipe run on a job. Also note, your problem was not too low heat, it was moisture in the pipes.

Journeyman,

Thank you for your input. The plumbers did come out in a panel truck full of parts.

SHR,

Thank you for your input. The plumbers did the work you see with the water heater in the picture. I did the work you see with all the parts lying on the garage floor. I agree that the sweating wasn't good. Are you saying the plumbers' work isn't good?

I found out why I couldn't get the solder to flow between the couple and pipe. I was leaving the flame on too long. This is the first time I used Mapp gas to sweat - I always used propane in the past - so when the solder flowed nicely between the valve and pipe I thought I was leaving the flame on the couple and pipe the right duration.

Later in the evening, I grabbed the new fittings and leftover pipe and tried sweating them. This time I applied the flame several seconds, removed the flame, and touched the solder to the joint. I kept doing this and then I saw the solder flow. I applied the flame again, removed the flame, and touched the solder to the joint. I repeated this until I got a nice seal around the fittings and joint.

I'm going to replace the house gate valve using my new, correct, technique sweating copper.

Thanks again