Sink drain into ejector pit

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garrett1812

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Hi all!

I have an ejector pit in my basement, which receives a floor drain and rough-ins for a bathroom (not finished, plan to in future). Currently the ejector pit contains a sump pump, not ejector pump.

I would like to add a utility sink to the area, and drain into this pit. I wanted to see if a wet vent would be the best approach, and if this is the correct application.

Thanks all!

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Frodo, where does that new pipe go to? Running a new vent outside of the house is not an option.
 
code says your ejection pit vent can not tie into any other vent. it must be run out by itself.

slap an aav on it..


th
 
Draining the sink into the vent would not be adding any new vent, right?


Your proposal is like this?

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You do not want to discharge your water softener into your sewage ejector or septic tank. You will pre maturely destroy the pump and kill the good bacteria in your septic, along with potentially cause damage to the cement tank itself.

The softener can discharge high enough that you don't need to tie it into the tank. Send it outside and trench it into the woods away from your well.
 
No septic to worry about, on city water and sewer. Will it prematurely wear out the sump pump though? How fast? There really isn't much choice unfortunately.
 
You do not want to discharge your water softener into your sewage ejector or septic tank. You will pre maturely destroy the pump and kill the good bacteria in your septic, along with potentially cause damage to the cement tank itself.

There are several studies that don't agree. I understand the concern about the pump's exposure (refer to manufacturer's recommendations), but not the tank or leach field.

The softener can discharge high enough that you don't need to tie it into the tank. Send it outside and trench it into the woods away from your well.

If code(s) permits. One needs to check with the local AHJ/health department for such discharges of grey water.
 
did not know that
is it because of the salt?

Yes sir. The salt will corrode the cast pumps, weaken plastic impellers, just pre maturely make things fail. Most I see is that it rots out around the electrical connections....then pop goes the breaker!
 
thanks Matt, i will remember that.

Garrett,
I am having issues with your basement. it is bugging the hell out of me.
the duct work is not insulated, you are loosing serious $$$$$$ because of that.
the heat/ac unit is on the ground so is the W/H
both are required to be on a minimum 3 1/2'' house keeping pad.
IF. this is your garage, they have to be 24'' off the floor
the pop off is not run to FD

and you can see belly's in the pvc exhaust pipe because it is not suported every 4' as per code

ok, i feel better now :D
 
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Hard to tell from the picture but the duct could be insulated on the inside. That's what I do to the first 10 feet to cut down on blower vibrations.
 
I thought you were referring to the plenums, sorry.

The round duct appears to be the return air, can't say I've insulated that either. But you can never have too much insulation in my opinion.
 
Thanks for all the input. The furnace is sitting on bricks, so its elevated a few inches. The water heater is just on the ground though. I will have to research local code. What does raising them do?

I will definitely look into insulating the duct work. The ducts also feed a few vents in the basement (it stays around 62-65, while the floor above we keep at 72), so its already intentionally 'losing' heat.
 
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