DWV design guidance needed

Hello,

I am designing a single wet wall (7" deep) for a house I am building. There will be two full bathrooms on the 2nd floor and one half bathroom on the floor below. I am trying to first figure out where I should put the soil stack. Should I put the soil stack in the middle of the fixtures or at one side? I am assuming it would be preferable to avoid wet venting too. Should I have horizontal branches on both floors taking waste to the side or should I just run things down to a branch under the first floor?

I will post a sketchup jpg later. I am just interested in doing things the most logical and effective way since I am starting the design from scratch with a single service cavity.

Thanks in advance.

need an upstairs and down stairs floor plan wall layout...with staircase shown, [so walls can be ligned up correctly]

Thanks Frodo! Sorry I couldn't get a diagram up with the original post. The project is in Idaho and here are a couple Sketchup jpg. My first idea was to put the soil stack on the side but I really just want to know how an experienced plumber would design it. I really struggle doing DWV isometrics so here's what I have...

which way are the joists run ? what size joists? 2x12 or 2x10 ?

you said 2 full baths, i see a tub, in one bath, do not see a shower or tub in the other

6'' wall in both bathrooms


need room deminsions to place fixture locations

I think I am starting to get a feel for this... Sorry I forgot to mention floor joist orientation. They will run perpendicular to the wall and the house is a timber frame so that is my motivation for isolating and really solidifying the plumbing in this internal wet wall (it is NOT load bearing). The floor joists are probably going to have some girth but I am thinking probably 16" OC. I also did a poor job of showing the shower in the other upstairs full bath (it is indicated by that square on the floor). I will improve my diagram and repost it. The width of the upstairs bathrooms (along the wet wall) is 9' 4" but I am essentially trying to manage that knee wall you can see in the diagram.

Thanks frodo.

Based on frodo's feedback, here are some new diagrams. I added some more detail to show the shower and the dimensions of the wet wall. I also tied all the vents together at the top, which I assume is what I should do.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, are you building this house for yourself or for somebody else?

It is a house I am building for myself.

your bathroom is 6'' to small needs to stretch out 6'' to give room for the lav

a toilet is minimum 30'' opening, a tub is 5' and a wall is 5'' those #'s are givens

your are left with only 1'5......need minimum 24''

Hmmm... I knew that bathroom was tight. Could I possibly purchase a shorter bathtub to make up that 6"? Or should I move the lav to a spot off the wet wall (I would like to avoid that)?

you can get a shorter tub. but who would want to get in a tub you cant lay in.
if your going to do that. install a 48'' shower


turn the tub,

The only problem with turning the tub is that the knee wall space gets pretty tight for head clearance. I tried it that way and wasn't totally sold on that. Now that I know a little bit more about fixture and drain size requirements, I am wondering if perhaps moving the lav off the wall might work. I really do not want to put any plumbing on the exterior wall (it is a SIP). Any other suggestions? By the way, thanks for all your VERY helpful and prompt feedback. You are a life saver.

I only have one suggestion, question is, do you have an extra $1300.00

http://www.vintagetub.com/media/cat...3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/L/G/LG48RT7WRBC-S.jpg

Randolph Morris 48 Inch Cast Iron Classic Clawfoot Tub Rim Drillings

Item #: LG48RT7WRBC-S

Randolph Morris High Spout Clawfoot Tub Faucet with Porcelain Lever Handles

Item #: RM149-4BN-S

[URL="Randolph Morris High Spout Clawfoot Tub Faucet with Porcelain Lever Handles

Item #: RM149-4BN-S

you owe me a cup of coffee

Thanks frodo. I definitely owe you a few cups of coffee . As I still try to grapple with the clearances on the wall, if you had a choice about pulling a lavatory or a toilet from the wet wall, which makes the most sense? From what I understand, the minimum critical distance to the vent is 3 1/2' for the lavatory and 6' for the toilet. Any thoughts?

here is the MINIMUM clearances.

30'' for a toilet
24'' for a lav
your tub is 5'
that added up is 9'6 WITHOUT the wall between tub and toilet, which is 5'' finish

that is Mimimum 9'11 finish wall to finish wall for your bathroom to work out.

i do not understand your question on the 3 1/2'' or 6'' ?

a toilet drain roughs in at 12 1/2'' from the wall to center drain

a lav is 19'' off the floor to center drain

your wall, needs to be a minimum 6'' thick it has a 2'' pipe in it and a water line

pipe is od 2 1/2'' water pipe is 5/8 when they cross that does not leave any "meat" left to be a sturdy wall

move the lav to outside wall, behind the lav, build a wall the same width as sink.

for the pipes to come up into

I think I can stretch the room by 2". Here's my idea. Can I use a 5' tub with a center drain that exits to the side and then run the supply through a faucet on the side as well? Does such a fixture exist? That sink drawing is the funniest thing I have seen in ages. Brilliant. Regarding the 3 1/2' and 6' dimensions, I was referring to the critical distance (p-trap to vent) of either a lav or a toilet.

this? re... 3 1/2 and 6 if i had bothered to look, i would have seen ' instead of "

so many options