Anode rod dilemma. Any WH w powered anode rode beside Whirlpool PCG2J5040T3NOV 100?

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snapple

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Good evening,

I am about to replace my old water heater, and I read about the benefit of having a powered anode rodes when there is a softener in the house. We live in AZ, our water is very hard so softener is a must.

So far I found only one model which has a powered anode rode in it: Whirlpool PCG2J5040T3NOV 100. Am I missing something or no one else is making WH w pre-installed powered anode rodes?

Some professionals seem to think that Whirlpool water heaters are in the category "most likely to fail & require a service call". I do not know if this statement still stands or their quality have been improved, (which seems unlikely since lately quality of products goes in the opposite direction). I also do not know if the benefit of a powered anode rode outweighs the installation cost of a new 120VAC outlet for it.

Btw if there is a reliable water heater with a very-easy-to-change anode rod :D, please let me know.

Thank you!
 
The square footage isn't important if you are using the water heater for just the plumbing fixtures. KULTULZ may not have seen your other thread where you show the gas fired tank. An electric water heater would require a 240 volt circuit and new breaker, etc. I don't know of any water heaters that come with an electric anode, but if it's important to you, have the 120v circuit set up for one and go for it. I think havasu or another member has one and they don't seem to have any issues. Anodes can be difficult to change mostly because of the tank location and surrounding mechanics/structure, but they also require a good bit of force to break loose if the threads are corroded and can also require shutting off the water and cutting the hot side pipe if it is a combination anode. Having an electric anode installed could help you to avoid some of these troubles. Softening your water will also require more service to a standard anode.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html
See if some information in this link will help you with your decision and maybe some more members will add more input on the matter.
 
KULTULZ may not have seen your other thread where you show the gas fired tank.

:eek:

Not-So-KULTULZ seems to have an advanced reading/comprehension problem in addition to terminal CRS... :eek:

Caduceus is correct. Research the link he showed and it will answer your question(s). The need for an electric anode will be determined after proper water treatment.
 
I didn't wrap my head around your first post...my apologies. The gas fired Whirlpool water heater that requires a 120v circuit with a pre installed electric anode should be fine. I saw where your concerns about the quality of the water heater came from, and they are prejudiced by the plumber who made that statement. Whirlpool water heaters are made by AO Smith and are just as reliable as any other residential water heater. They all have pros and cons and need some maintenance, so if that's what you're looking for go for it.
 
Thank you, very informative link. I feel as if it belongs to a part of the course "PhD in plumbing" :)
I have a couple of questions regarding the following paragraph:
--> A Different Kind of Anode -- Powered

We still discourage their use in regular... In hard water sediment can bury & burn out the lower elements of electric water heaters, and, with a powered anode, cut off the bottom of the tank from the protection of the powered anode electrode.

What about gas water heaters? Does this scenario apply only to electric heaters?
What if I have soft water (because I'm using a softener)?
 
I have a couple of questions regarding the following paragraph:

--> A Different Kind of Anode -- Powered

We still discourage their use in regular... In hard water sediment can bury & burn out the lower elements of electric water heaters, and, with a powered anode, cut off the bottom of the tank from the protection of the powered anode electrode.


What about gas water heaters? Does this scenario apply only to electric heaters?

What if I have soft water (because I'm using a softener)?

Let me try this again without putting my foot into my mouth... :D

What they are saying is that sediment/solids, whether within the water supply (not pre-filtered) or sediment fallout (result of separation [calcium notably] during the heating process) be allowed to build-up on the WH tank bottom (not flushing the WH on a regular basis). This will also be true with a gas fired WH although the resultant sediment build-up will interfere with proper heating of the water rather than blocking the efficiency of the electric WH bottom heating element.

It all comes down to the chemistry of the water being introduced into the WH. Every water source will be different. Read further on that site regarding WH maintenance and water Ph.

Professionals- Please correct me if I am wrong... :eek:
 
I am about to replace my old water heater, and I read about the benefit of having a powered anode rodes when there is a softener in the house. We live in AZ, our water is very hard so softener is a must.

So far I found only one model which has a powered anode rode in it: Whirlpool PCG2J5040T3NOV 100. Am I missing something or no one else is making WH w pre-installed powered anode rods?

SOURCE- http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.com/products/natural-gas/pcg2j5040t3nov-100/?id=144

PRODUCT FEATURES

•ENERGY STAR® Qualified - achieves .70 Energy Factor (EF) through the patented pressurized combustion system, reducing cost of operation up to 25% versus conventional gas products

•Advanced LCD control conveniently located at eye level, to provide easy temperature adjustment and self diagnostics

•Electronic ignition means no standing pilot, for optimized efficiency and avoiding nuisance issues associated with standard vent products

•Maintenance-free powered anode rod protects the tank from corrosion in all water conditions

•Requires standard 120V electric supply (10' power cord included)

The most important feature with this model is that the powered anode is factory installed and is covered by warranty whereas adding a powered anode rod to a regular WH model may void its' warranty.

You will want to add a surge protection outlet to provide protection for the LCD electronics.
 
I just wanted to thank everyone on this forum who educated me on this subject and gave their opinion. I finally pulled the trigger and bought this model using 10% coupon. I did not get additional Lowe's protection plan because it does not give you anything substantial in the essence. The rep from Whirlpool told that 1st year for this model they cover labor+parts and then just parts. She also said that if my water heater breaks 4 times in the 12 month period because of the same problem they would most likely replace it themselves as a lemon (part of the Lowe's protection plan). We will see if my investment will pay in the long run or I could have saved around $400 (+ electrician fees for putting it on a separate circuit) by buying regular Rheem with a magnesium rode. I will also post an update if I start having all kind of problems with this model. Btw it has 2 inch insulation instead of one.

Now lets wait until someone figures out how to make a water heater with a see through window for easy monitoring of an anode.

Also, is there any way to contribute to this forum via Paypal as a token of my support? For example, troublefree pool forums have paid membership levels.
 
snapple said:
Thank you, very informative link. I feel as if it belongs to a part of the course "PhD in plumbing"

I have a couple of questions regarding the following paragraph:

--> A Different Kind of Anode -- Powered

We still discourage their use in regular... In hard water sediment can bury & burn out the lower elements of electric water heaters, and, with a powered anode, cut off the bottom of the tank from the protection of the powered anode electrode.

What about gas water heaters? Does this scenario apply only to electric heaters?

What if I have soft water (because I'm using a softener)?

Let me try this again without putting my foot into my mouth... :D

What they are saying is that sediment/solids, whether within the water supply (not pre-filtered) or sediment fallout (result of separation [calcium notably] during the heating process) be allowed to build-up on the WH tank bottom (not flushing the WH on a regular basis). This will also be true with a gas fired WH although the resultant sediment build-up will interfere with proper heating of the water rather than blocking the efficiency of the electric WH bottom heating element.

It all comes down to the chemistry of the water being introduced into the WH. Every water source will be different. Read further on that site regarding WH maintenance and water Ph.

Professionals- Please correct me if I am wrong... :eek:

Hopefully, this- http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html - will help in the explanation of needing to maintain a water heater for best/extended performance.
 
Now lets wait until someone figures out how to make a water heater with a see through window for easy monitoring of an anode.
You should verify sacrificial anode rod every year to make sure your hot water tank is protected. You were talking about powered anode rod, you can visit our website to have more informations about this technology : https://www.corroprotec.com/powered-anode-rod/
 
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