Pipe interfering with new shower faucet

Hey all,

First post. Most likely it won't be the last.
THE PROBLEM.
I'm attempting to upgrade a shower from a three handle to a one. The entire house is galvanized pipe but since we're selling, I just want to get what needs to be done, done. As you can see from the photos, it's tight in there. Not only is the hot water inlet right by a stud, there is a big 2" pipe right behind it so mounting the new faucet to a 2x6 is impossible. I will replacing the old pipe with PEX, so the real problem is just the mounting. One idea I had was to get a flat bar of 1/8" metal and screw the faucet to that but I'm wondering if this is the best Idea so I'm looking for proper solutions short of replacing the pipes.
I could put another three handle back in there but I'd like to try to upgrade it if possible.
BTW: The 2" pipe goes up about 28" from the top of the tub, which might be an OK height for a mounting location if it were only a shower. I just don't think it's good for a shower/bath combo.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
http://1drv.ms/1Pen6JS

Thanks,
Michael G.

try this bracing

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I just need a bit more clarification.
So, when you says, "notched", so you mean cutting out the portion of the 2x4 so that it will hug the pipe? I did think of that but I had wondered if there would be enough strength with the remaining wood? The unit is a Pfister 8p8-pdcc. It appears from the instructions that the plasterguard should be just below either the cement board or the tiles. Doing some rough estimating, that would mean at the lowest point, I would have about 3/4". Do you think that will be enough wood for strength?
I do have a scroll saw so I could make that wood hug the pipe pretty closely.

If you have 3/4" left of the wood, that should be plenty strong enough. I have notched that much out of backing boards on many occasions.

Though, my experience with Price Pfister valves is that they need to be mounted on 1" nominal (3/4" actual) lumber to be the correct depth in a 2x4 wall. That, and they are crappy valves.

Click free on photos

I don't care for the Pfister.

Instruction sheet online doesn't show rough depths for PP valve

I prefer the Moen Posi-temp

Michael_G said:

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I just need a bit more clarification.
So, when you says, "notched", so you mean cutting out the portion of the 2x4 so that it will hug the pipe? I did think of that but I had wondered if there would be enough strength with the remaining wood? The unit is a Pfister 8p8-pdcc. It appears from the instructions that the plasterguard should be just below either the cement board or the tiles. Doing some rough estimating, that would mean at the lowest point, I would have about 3/4". Do you think that will be enough wood for strength?
I do have a scroll saw so I could make that wood hug the pipe pretty closely.

Click to expand...

yes, notch it...if you want more strength.

install a board on the spout and another on the shower riser

use ridged copper for the riser to shower head and tub spout.

Put the 2 x 4 block in front and just above valve instead of behind it.

strap the riser to the block. you can use felt and p-tape. you can notch the back side of wood to make any adjustments to where you want to set depth of valve if needed. Set a block behind tub spout fitting. use a back eared 90 with IPS so you can use a brass nipple or a copper stub out w/a MIP adapter. Same for shower head. A little extra support for the valve for twist factor. you can use a hyco strap to secure the back mounting plate. the ends of strap to studs on either side of valve

use 2 hyco straps behind valve. one for upper mounting screw and a 2nd for lower mounting screw. straps are 18" and 24" bend the ends and screw them to studs on the either side. the valve will flex in and out a little. the block in front with riser strapped to it will prevent that

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
I tried to keep an eye on the forum but the wife wanted me to keep moving so with the suggestion of notching the 2x4, I came up with this. (http://1drv.ms/1Ay6pCu)
The 2x4, obviously, is where I'll mount the value and the vertical 1x4 is what I'll mount the spout.
Thanks also for the advice about the Pfister. I'll try to take it back and get a Moen.
As far as the 90° and IPS, do you suggest using that with PEX? I was just going to mount the 90° to a 2x4. Do you think it's a good idea to run an IPS off that and strap it down to another 2x4 for added strength? The other 2x4 is there (from the galvanized pipe) so it could be added but I sorta wanted to stay away from more galvanized since I didn't want the next owner to have to get into the wall to rip it out. Of course, my guess is whoever does the job will have to get in there anyone. Just trying to save them that much more work.