Relocating shower drain & raising toilet drain

Hi,

I'm renovating my bathroom. I need to center my shower drain. To do so I have to move it 1 1/16" to the west and 5/16" to the south. I'm replacing the subflooring in the shower stall, and adding another 1/2" of subflooring in the entire bathroom. "Taunton's Plumbing Complete," recommends flexible couplings, fittings, and elbow traps, made from flexible PVC. I think this might be the solution to making the minor adjustment that I need. I called Fernco, but one of the reps told me that it wouldn't be suitable for the intended application. Do you know who makes these the pipes that I need, and do you think this product will be suitable for what I want to do? If not, do you have another recommendation?

I also was going to use a flexible connection to help me raise the toilet drain after I cut the drain pipe, so that I'll have some wiggle room after I add the new pipe. It's currently 12" from the center of the drain to the west wall and 18 1/2" from the center of the drain to the south wall. I just need to raise it up a little more than an inch. Again, I don't know who makes the pipe and if it will be applicable for my intended use. Additionally, is my toilet drain in the right place?

Photos from top to bottom; #1 and #2 are the shower drain pipes and #3 is the toilet drain pipe.

Thanks ,


Joe

Don't use Fernco or flexible fitting.

Cut off the p-trap for shower drain. install the drain with a tail piece.
A p-trap is very versatile. it works like a swing joint. where the u part connects to the street 90 it does not have to be straight with the run of the pipe.

The toilet. scince you have access below just cut off the 90.
Use a 4"street x 3" hub closet bend. The street end is longer than a standard street 90. trim off what you don't need to the finished floor an trim the penetration trough floor just big enough for the new flange. block or secure the bend below so it won't flex down when you glue and push new flange onto bend

Thanks Mr. David,

I'll bring your response with me to the local plumbing supply. Hopefully, he can clarify your instructions. I'll come back here if need be.

Thanks much

Joe

BRrenovator said:

Thanks Mr. David,

I'll bring your response with me to the local plumbing supply. Hopefully, he can clarify your instructions. I'll come back here if need be.

Thanks much

Joe

Click to expand...

Let us know how it turned out

Mr_David said:

Let us know how it turned out

Click to expand...

I sure will. I'm having to wait until I decide what to do with the subflooring, since I'm doing the plumbing and subflooring at the same time.

Thank you Mr. David,


Joe

Is my toilet drain in the right location? The center is 12” from the west wall and 18 ½” from the south wall. I had a standard sized toilet in this bathroom. Now that I'm ready to rip out the subfloor, I want to make sure that my new toilet will fit. Otherwise I'll move the toilet plumbing another inch or two from the west wall.

I've also attached a few photos of the pipes the local plumbing supply store sold to me. The 3" drain pipe is non pressure rated. I'm not sure about the 4" pipe that runs down from the toilet flange. I'm just checking to make sure I'm not installing inferior pvc pipe.

Thanks


Joe

perfiction

Rough in is good. Only issue you might have is if you are putting ceramic tile the flange could possible be below the finished floor and won't make a good seal

Thanks Frodo!

Thanks cdimarco1984. The floor is coming up, and the drain is being modified. It will be a tad higher when I'm done, hence the photos of the toilet drain pipes.

I'm planning on waiting until I've completed the work on the walls and shower before I run the drain pipe for the toilet through the subfloor. I'll also wait until the work on the walls is done before running the drain pipe for the shower stall. I'll get the drains in the correct location, but wait to run the pipes through the subfloor. Is there any problem with that?

I stuffed a rag in the drain pipes of the shower and toilet. Is that sufficient to keep sewer gasses out?

Thanks

Not sure about the grade of PVC pipe to use .
We use ABS for drains. Not PVC.

How do I get P-trap level? I cut the pipes to get the drain centered, however the drain pipe is sloped. Should I be able to get it level?

I was planning on attaching the sleeve to the new pipe, then connect it to the existing pipe after it cures. Lastly, I plan on connecting the P-trap to the new pipe. Does the order matter? My goal is to center the P-trap in the correct location so my shower drain will be centered.

Thanks much,


Joe

OK, so I got the p-trap level by fitting a pipe into it, and placing my level on top of the pipe, making some minor alterations before the cement dried.

However, I have to redo the toilet plumbing because the top of the ninety is about 3/8" above the joist. I know, I should have not installed it that way. I had shims on top of the joist and with the shims the floor cleared the ninety by about an 1/8". I had to remove the shims because they weren't going to support the load.

I'm thinking I might be able to purchase a shorter ninety, install it and still keep the plumbing in the correct location. Other than that, I'm not sure what to do .

NO >>>>you can not do what you are doing.

I'm lost . I thought I followed Mr. David's and my local plumber's instructions. I've installed a p-trap in the shower drain plumbing. I only extended the pipe on the toilet drain plumbing, and I've read that the toilet has its own trap.

Photos from the top: 1 and 2 are the shower drain rough plumbing with p-trap; photo 3 is new rough toilet drain plumbing.

What do you recommend?

Mr_David said:

Don't use Fernco or flexible fitting.

Cut off the p-trap for shower drain. install the drain with a tail piece.
A p-trap is very versatile. it works like a swing joint. where the u part connects to the street 90 it does not have to be straight with the run of the pipe.

The toilet. scince you have access below just cut off the 90.
Use a 4"street x 3" hub closet bend. The street end is longer than a standard street 90. trim off what you don't need to the finished floor an trim the penetration trough floor just big enough for the new flange. block or secure the bend below so it won't flex down when you glue and push new flange onto bend

Click to expand...

That's not the closet bend I suggested. Use a street closet bend.

The part sticking up through the floor is the same outside diameter as 4" pipe.
use a flange that slides onto it. NOT INTO it.

BRrenovator said:

I'm lost . I thought I followed Mr. David's and my local plumber's instructions. I've installed a p-trap in the shower drain plumbing. I only extended the pipe on the toilet drain plumbing, and I've read that the toilet has its own trap.

Photos from the top: 1 and 2 are the shower drain rough plumbing with p-trap; photo 3 is new rough toilet drain plumbing.

What do you recommend?

Click to expand...

never mind, i was wrong, i hate saying that,,it does not come out right.

i was wwwww rrwwww ong..

Mr. David, Yes that is the vent for the toilet (top photo). If I use the street closet bend that you are referring to it would be sit above the joists, and I'd have to wait until the floor is down. I'm not sure I'd be able to cement it on from the bathroom subfloor, and if I do it from the crawlspace, I don't know how to cement it and level it at the same time.

I'm planning on using the 3" 90 (bottom photo) because it's shorter and I can install it before I put down the subfloor. Unless the 4" is vastly superior, I'll go with the 3".

Will this be OK?

No worries Frodo. I learned about S-traps because of your comments.

http://https://www.google.com/search?q=s-trap&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&imgil=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%253A%253BQMtqhVtpbPwc2M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.nachi.org%25252Fforum%25252Ff22%25252Fs-trap-88425%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%253A%252CQMtqhVtpbPwc2M%252C_&usg=__yuRD2aobCad_Ce2ovF_DnsaKvKA%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjkluHe_KnJAhUFMz4KHZzRBIoQyjcIKA&ei=sNJUVuT-CIXm-AGco5PQCA#imgrc=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%3A&usg=__yuRD2aobCad_Ce2ovF_DnsaKvKA%3D

Happy Thanksgiving,


Joe

BRrenovator said:

Mr. David, Yes that is the vent for the toilet (top photo). If I use the street closet bend that you are referring to it would be sit above the joists, and I'd have to wait until the floor is down. I'm not sure I'd be able to cement it on from the bathroom subfloor, and if I do it from the crawlspace, I don't know how to cement it and level it at the same time.

I'm planning on using the 3" 90 (bottom photo) because it's shorter and I can install it before I put down the subfloor. Unless the 4" is vastly superior, I'll go with the 3".

Will this be OK?

No worries Frodo. I learned about S-traps because of your comments.

http://https://www.google.com/search?q=s-trap&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&imgil=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%253A%253BQMtqhVtpbPwc2M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.nachi.org%25252Fforum%25252Ff22%25252Fs-trap-88425%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%253A%252CQMtqhVtpbPwc2M%252C_&usg=__yuRD2aobCad_Ce2ovF_DnsaKvKA%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjkluHe_KnJAhUFMz4KHZzRBIoQyjcIKA&ei=sNJUVuT-CIXm-AGco5PQCA#imgrc=5q3NNZNOgUc4kM%3A&usg=__yuRD2aobCad_Ce2ovF_DnsaKvKA%3D

Happy Thanksgiving,


Joe

Click to expand...

you nail a board under the 90. now

after the floor is layed, you trim the top of the 90, flush with floor

put glue on it, turn it the correct position and step on it.

then you secure it to the floor with brass screws

Would it be OK to support my shower trap with wood blocks as I install the shower drain from above?

Thanks,